Help in removing Hornby printed numbers/logos

[Worthy]

Hi all.

Recently I got a bargain of a Hornby Class 50 for less than £50 second hand.

It's 50018 in BR blue with the original body styling. I however want to backdate it to a nameless D numbered machine. I've heard that taking the numbers and logos off a Hornby machine isn't as easy as a Bachmann one due to the different printing processes involved. I'd dearly like to keep the paint as intact as possible. Does anybody know a good process for the removal of the printed numbers/logos?

As an aside, does anybody know who makes decals of the EE leasing plates these machines used to carry. A quick search on the Fox site reveals nothing.

Many thanks in advance.

Cheers

Worthy

[Caledonian]

My tried and trusted method is to use a cotton bud soaked in brasso - you then use the dry end to clean off any residue. Needs a bit of rubbing, but it does work. The only problem is that it leaves a shiny patch, but I believe this is common to all the other fixes like T-cut. If you're patient enough you could always polish the whole bodyshell, but transfers and weathering are usually enough.

[micklner]

T Cut and a wood cocktail stick leaves a nice sheen for new decals

[Butler Henderson]

Rubbing with the cocktail stick alone often works (ie no T-cut)

[owentherail]

Ive re numbered 3 Hornby 50s so far, i used meths on name and number with cotton bud with no problem, i think shawplan do EE plates. owen

[Oldddudders]

T Cut and a wood cocktail stick leaves a nice sheen for new decals

Good point. All the decals I've ever used came with a recommendation to apply on a shiny surface for best results. Matt varnish after re-decaling - plus weathering if you like it - can restore the flat finish many of us prefer, while protecting your new handiwork.

[Worthy]

Many thanks for all the replies.

I'm going to give it a go either today or tomorrow, so I'll let you know the method I used and the success rate when I'm done.

Once again thanks a lot guys

[Guest stuartp]

I find the T-cut and cotton bud method leaves an impression of the number/lettering in the shiny paint afterwards; the printing acts as a resist leaving the area slightly raised. I scrape the lettering off using a curved scalpel blade and dragging it very very gently across the printing to be removed but not touching the surrounding colour. A quick polish with T-cut deals with any residue and leaves the required shiny surface. I suspect the cocktail stick works the same way by confining the T-cut to the bit actually needing to be removed.

[Worthy]

Well thanks everyone for your help.

I used the T-Cut and cocktail stick method. Yes it takes time, and patience, but it produces a great result.

Oh and I used Wilkinsons Wilko Colour Restorer, which is the same as T-Cut, but half the price.

[Blackstoat]

Hi all.

 

I know this is an old thread, but I stumbled across it and I thought others might too.

 

I have a very old B12, the motor just runs, but it's really not worth the effort resurrecting it. I want it changing from an LNER to early BR livery. I tried all of the methods above in order to remove the markings from the tender with the addition of rubbing alcohol. I certainly don't mean to criticise any of the methods suggested, they obviously work for those suggesting them and that's fair enough. I just wanted to suggest the easiest/most effective

 

1. Just rubbing with a coctail stick might work eventually, but I suspect repetitive strain injury might set in first. I gave up with this.

 

2. Rubbing alcohol. Removed the markings eventually although a lot of rubbing was required.

 

3. Methylated spirit. Marginally better than rubbing alcohol.Again a lot of rubbing was required.

 

4 T-cut. I was a little surprised that this was the best method. I shouldn't be I suppose, most people suggested it.

 

CONCLUSION : all of the methods used worked by polishing the surface i.e. removing the surface layer. The texture was always removed. Even then 'ghost' letters could still be seen when reflected in the right light. This might be OK when a new decal is going to be placed exactly where the old one was removed. However I couldn't do this as the markings were LNER. This meant the surface needed reinstating with a spray of matt varnish, then weathering applied. If I wanted the locomotives to look pristine I am confident I would need to respray in the appropriate colour.

 

Can the markings be removed: yes. Is it easy: relatively easy using T-cut. Does it produce a finish that I would be happy with: no. Does the finish need covering or reinstating: yes where the new decal doesn't cover the removal area.

 

Hope that helps

 

Andy

[tractor_37260]

For removing printed/tampo printed manufacturer brandings and No's, of interest the part where fine emery boards/sanding sticks are used to remove any "ghosting" left over of the original number etc .

 

See here:

 

http://www.replicarailways.co.uk/transfers/transfer-application

 

HTH

Ken

[Blackstoat]

For removing printed/tampo printed manufacturer brandings and No's, of interest the part where fine emery boards/sanding sticks are used to remove any "ghosting" left over of the original number etc .

 

See here:

 

http://www.replicarailways.co.uk/transfers/transfer-application

 

HTH

Ken

Thanks Ken

 

I have a superfine finishing stick I'll give it a go

[Blackstoat]

Thanks Ken

 

I have a superfine finishing stick I'll give it a go

Whoa... used a superfine finishing stick to remove the ghosting. Yes it removed the remaining marking giving a matt finish instead of the shine, but it also removed the green surface to the black beneath. This was a superfine stick and used it only very lightly to remove the ghosting. Looks like the ghosting goes quite deep into the surface finish.

 

Also tried a glass fibre stick. This is actually now my preferred method. Removes the marking fairly easily, produces a matt finish (but again I wouldn't be happy with it without covering it in some way),but there's not much margin between removing the marking and going straight through the 'paint' surface altogether.

[tractor_37260]

Whoa... used a superfine finishing stick to remove the ghosting. Yes it removed the remaining marking giving a matt finish instead of the shine, but it also removed the green surface to the black beneath. This was a superfine stick and used it only very lightly to remove the ghosting. Looks like the ghosting goes quite deep into the surface finish.

 

Also tried a glass fibre stick. This is actually now my preferred method. Removes the marking fairly easily, produces a matt finish (but again I wouldn't be happy with it without covering it in some way),but there's not much margin between removing the marking and going straight through the 'paint' surface altogether.

 

That's a shame !  success can depend on just how thick the livery coating of paint was in the first place, some models ie Vi Trains especially, have a very thin coating ( if it is in fact paint ? ) making it virtually impossible to remove printing etc without damaging the main finish.  The "ghosting" than can be left after removing the original No etc with T-Cut/Brasso etc would normally be covered by the new No, and together with a final coat of varnish would be completely hidden.

I've never tried a Glass fibre stick for this purpose, I'd be wary of it, but if it works for you....... the end result is all that matters.............

[Blackstoat]

Glass fibre stick actually worked the best insofar as least effort is concerned. But as you say, need to be wary of it. You'd also need to apply a gloss varnish before adding a decal.