Simon Moore Posted October 3, 2010 Share Posted October 3, 2010 Not sure what the has gone wrong here but my connecting rods will not line up on the axels. The chassis was made up on a avonside jig & everything is true & free running but the connecting rods will not sit on the axel pins on one side. Can anyone help me out here because i cannot work out where i am going wrong it just doesnt seem to be right somehow. I am almost certain i read somewhere once that their was problems with the black 5 kit design but i could be wrong can anyone shed light on this please. Simon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted October 3, 2010 Share Posted October 3, 2010 Are you saying the coupling rods are unequal length? I assume they aren't jointed ones and you setup the chassis jig using the one rod and that is how you discovered the other rod is off? Normally you make up the couplings as a pair with dowels through the holes then set the jig via those and then fit the hornblocks with the jig.. If the rod is off then it might be time to follow Tim V's suggestion on Will's thread on S4um. Or get advice on your hobby holidays course.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Moore Posted October 3, 2010 Author Share Posted October 3, 2010 I've taken the rods apart & checked they are all equal its just binding as it turns i figure this is something to do with the rods being tight but i have opened the hole up a bit more but dont want to take it to far so it is very sloppy. Simon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Moore Posted October 3, 2010 Author Share Posted October 3, 2010 Perseverance is the key as always & regular brews The chassis has just moved on its on power & runs very smooth i must say seeing something i built run so smoothly is a achievement to say the least. I would not have slept tonight if it hadn't run after all the work i have done on the kit today. Tomorrow i can move on & fit pick ups properly & just do a few final tweeks to the chassis before i take it apart for painting. Tony Wright's right track dvd has been essential viewing for me i have had the computer next to the bench with the dvd on pause so i can flick to which part i need for assistance. Anyone who wishes to have a go at modeling locos from kits is well worth buying the dvd's what Tony has done with the right track team. It's brilliant for advice although it only covers basic 4mm OO gauge chassis's. Simon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_Hughes Posted October 4, 2010 Share Posted October 4, 2010 ... and after you've taken it apart to paint it, you'll probably find - if you're anything like me - that it doesn't run as well after you've put it back together as it did before. After hitting this problem once too often I now generally give the chassis a blast of black primer before ever fitting the wheels. Then with the rods on and the motor in and working I use Iain Rice's dodge of spraying the completed chassis with the mechanism turning slowly under power. He admits it's a 'heathen' way of doing things, but with a simple black chassis it doesn't half make life easier. Of course, you may have no problems at all - good luck! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 What gauge are you building this one in? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Moore Posted October 5, 2010 Author Share Posted October 5, 2010 This is a OO model & after a bit of a fiddle it is running well although there is a knocking sound i think it needs a little fine tuning but its ok up to now. Simon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted October 7, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 7, 2010 Simon - glad it's running well at the moment, but the advice re what it might be like after you've painted and re-assembled it is very valid. One tip is to give the finished loco a lot of running in on a circle of large radius set-track - several hours in each direction if it needs it - I'm frequently surprised at just how this kind of thing helps bed everything in and improve the running. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 ....it is running well although there is a knocking sound....... Clanking, just like the prototype! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Moore Posted October 7, 2010 Author Share Posted October 7, 2010 I found the clupritt, One of the connecting rods was just a little tight & its now running very well & once running in has taken place i think i will have a nice smooth loco. I have made a real cock up with one item which is going to need replacement, i soldered the top feed , dome & chimney in place everything seemed to line up but the chimney has somehow managed to A get soldered perfectly well & B soldered at a angle to the rest. Another lesson learnt I'm not looking forward to the valve gear but it has to be done at some point. Tomorrow i am going to spray the chassis up & prepare it for the next stage of construction. Hopefully horstan this kit wont need DCC sound Simon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sugar palm Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 i like reading about other peoples problems kit bashing so how are you going to do the valvegear is it going to be rivetted / or the dressmakers pins a rizlla and solder which works very well i can recommend ? the TW way I make the valve gear take apart with the odd nut and bolt here and there with a drop or two of loctite . take your time and dont get frustrated is the key with valvegear ive found Michael @ 50F:rolleyes: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Moore Posted October 10, 2010 Author Share Posted October 10, 2010 I',m not sure yet about how to tackle the valvegear i think i might use the rivit method as the parts are supplied with the kit. I'm going to see i'm not going to tackle any of the gear today i have been building wagons this weekend & i might work on the bodywork of the 5 just detailing the bolier etc. Simon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted October 10, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 10, 2010 The one thing I don't like about riveting (well, the two things I don't like about riveting valve gear) is (a) the fact that hitting the assembly with a hammer is, to my mind, slightly risky to begin with and (B) once you've got it all assembled, you can't easily dismantle it unless you sacrifice the rivet. Mind you, the method described by Sugar Palm is also not without the same attributes, in that it's possible to solder the joint up solid, if you're not careful, plus you still have to sacrifice the brass pin if you disassemble it. It does have the stonking advange to my simple mind, however, of not requiring a hammer to be taken anywhere near one's delicate valve gear... The brass lacemaking pin method with the Rizla paper is normally the method I use myself these days. I used to use 16BA nuts and bolts, however (and still would, for certain applications), and these have the advantage that you are more in control of the process each step of the way, plus you can dismantle the valve gear and normally re-use the nuts and bolts. This is good, because the disadvantage of this is the cost of the things! Happy to have a more 'in-depth' discussion on valve gear, Simon, if you are planning to pop into the Blackburn show next weekend? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Moore Posted October 10, 2010 Author Share Posted October 10, 2010 Tim, unfortunatley it's my final race of the season next weekend so i have to spend the saturday getting my bike prepaired for the race so i am going to miss out. I don't go to many show maybe this is my short coming in learning new tips but i just dont seem to be able to do anything these days apart from race & bring up my family. I'm lucky to sneak off for a few hours to see some of the members of the area group thats about my lot. I think i am going to consult my mate about the valve gear because i will no doubt be ringing him for help & advice. I think i might pop into the market tomorrow & pick some of the lacemaking pins just to see & if i need them in the future they are there. Simon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
artisan100 Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 Ideally valve gear rivets have a dimple machined in the narrow end, and then you use peening pliers to spread the walls of the dimple out to trap the valve gear items between the head and the newly formed flare. With flat ended rivets you can use serrated jaw pliers and just squeeze until the the tail of the rivet flares out, and then use smooth jaw pliers to complete the job. Geoff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sugar palm Posted October 14, 2010 Share Posted October 14, 2010 i think il stick to the soldered brass pins as i find it easier to unsolder the cock up than to file and prise the valvegear apart. The system of squeezing the rivites sound good tho. never seen it done that way will have to look out for that one demostrated at a show ?? . this is what the forum is about as your never to old to learn from experienced modellers . been self taught i suppose but it makes me think on a new idea to investigate B) michael 50F Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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