scooter171103 Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 hi all ive been trying to scratchbuild a building in 00 using 2mm card given to me by a friend who works for a photgraphic company(the stuff around the edge of a photo in a frame)ive been using pva spread over the carboard and then mounting plasticard (corrigated finish) but it keeps curling and bending ive even left a stack of books on them for 48 hours they come out straight and then slowly start to curl over the next few days is there any other glues that work without attacking the plastic ive looked on the scalescenes site and might just give up and use theirs but would prefer to use the plastic for its 3d properties although have not seen scalescenes in the flesh so any coments or pics might help cheers everyone Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lady_Ava_Hay Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 hi all ive been trying to scratchbuild a building in 00 using 2mm card given to me by a friend who works for a photgraphic company(the stuff around the edge of a photo in a frame)ive been using pva spread over the carboard and then mounting plasticard (corrigated finish) but it keeps curling and bending ive even left a stack of books on them for 48 hours they come out straight and then slowly start to curl over the next few days is there any other glues that work without attacking the plastic ive looked on the scalescenes site and might just give up and use theirs but would prefer to use the plastic for its 3d properties although have not seen scalescenes in the flesh so any coments or pics might help cheers everyone I re-read this post a couple of times before I got the gist. Why are you using corrugated plasticard? The reason that the laminate curls is because the card absorbs water and then shrinks as it dries and the plasticard doesn't. Because the card is 2mm thick this shrinkage takes place on one surface only. It would probably bend anyway but the plasticard is not strong enough to resist the curling. I doubt that the card used in photo framing is going to survive a wetting. |Remember that PVA is acrylic and therefore water based. Cheap PVA seems to contain more water than the dear stuff. The 2mm board I use is polyboard. Try Pritt sticks first and if that cures the problem then so be it. If it doesn't then change the board. Even Scalescenes printed sheets require top quality paper to prevent fuzziness and ink jet papers are notorious for wetting and curling. Colour lasers are the best as they use heat to set the ink. Bit expensive to use for a model though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellicoe Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 You might try gluing a third laminate to the other side of the card using paper or thin card. This will offset the shrinkage on the other side. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 Hi, Scooter, Possibly people underestimate the amount of bracing needed to keep card rigid. Another problem with your sandwich will be atmospheric moisture/humidity as the plastic covered side will stay 'dry compared with the plain side which will absorb moisture and swell, or vice versa. You could mitigate that effect to a certain extent by sparying the inside with varnish, but ...... Here is an example of a scratch built model of mine, showing the amount of bracing I have foud to be necessary. There's more at the top, as the bottom of the walls are stuck to a base. Don't get too dispirited, just get bracing with wide 'floors' where possible. Good luck, Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter171103 Posted October 24, 2010 Author Share Posted October 24, 2010 hi all thanks for the replys ive now bought a large pritt stick and shall have ago with that ill use my bendy building for practising weathering on Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jim s-w Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 I use double sided tape in my buildings Hth Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted October 24, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 24, 2010 hi all thanks for the replys ive now bought a large pritt stick and shall have ago with that ill use my bendy building for practising weathering on I normally use a Pritt stick to glue building papers (such as Scalescene downloads) to card (1.5mm Dalerboard in my case), and I then weight it down under several books and something even heavier, such as my metal toolbox or a Gaugemaster controller, for a couple of days. The resulting building is then pretty heavily braced when glued together using PVA, looking a bit like Doug's building shown above. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted October 25, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 25, 2010 You can paint the card first with Shellac also known as Knotting this makes it very stiff and water resistant. Best to cut to size first though. DonW Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
45157 Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 The card glue from Deluxe Materials is very good. http://www.deluxematerials.com/ Personally, I now only use their "Super'Phatic" ( http://www.deluxematerials.com/products_emulsion.html ) glue when gluing Plasticard to card or foamboard (care needed as very sticky on fingers). Mail order service is excellent. (I have no involvement with the above company other than a very satisfied and regular customer) Although there are many other factors involved, in general, laminating sheets for thickness/strength will only be successful if the laminations are in odd numbers (ie 2 or 4 will warp, 3 will be ok) regards Stewart Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.