Horsetan Posted September 3, 2012 Share Posted September 3, 2012 This is why I only model preserved stuff.....because you can actually go and see the things for yourself. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluebell Model Railway Posted September 4, 2012 Author Share Posted September 4, 2012 Indeed you can... model what you know best... or something i can get a colour picture of at least... plenty more to come in the next few days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluebell Model Railway Posted September 5, 2012 Author Share Posted September 5, 2012 Project P has been on going for a number of weeks, and currently it is at the painting stage... so I thought i should start writting it up. This kit is a SECR, 0-6-0T, P-Class. The kit is from Dean Sidings, who makes Resin based bodies which fit (with some modifications) a Ready to Run Chassis. The kit is around £52.50, which sounds alot but its not bad really, the kit comes with a standard resin body, a number of castings for the kit (Dome, chimney, safety valves, clack valves, steam reverser, whistle, Boiler backhead, tank filler caps, Buffers, and steps, as well as a few others) It also comes with hand rail knobs, and smokebox dart. So its pretty much a complete kit, all you need to provide is a Terrier chassis... made by Dapol or Hornby. First thing to do, is to clean the body up, Dean Sidings body's are pretty clean and not to much tidying is needed, some around the windows, and around the boiler and tanks area. Once this is done, you can then go about fitting a few items. A word of warning as always... take care when drilling or screwing in to the resin too tight a fit the body will split... so take your time. Firstly added a number of white metal castings to the body, such as dome, safety valves, and the chimney. A small hole will need to be drilled in the body to take these. 2.5 - 3mm drill bit. Again drill with caution. Buffers used on this kit were not the ones provided. I chose to go with Markits SR stepped type sprung buffers as I believe these are the type which the Bluebell P's have on them. As you can see a few items have been left off like the pipe work around the safety valves and the clack valves and steam reverser. This is due mainly to the reaon it will be eaier to paint and line the areas with nothing in the way. The chassis. This is a chassis from a Terrier purchased from a good friend on my Facebook group, and comes from the Hornby Thomas and friends Stepney model. The model was taken appart and cleaned ready for the modifications to be made to the chassis. First bit of work on the chassis, envolves chopping off part of the rear, the amount to cut off is about 5mm, or basically just behind the rear Sander boxes on the chassis... showen hear on the picture below with a red dotted line. After this minor piece of surgery, the wheels and chassis are primed and ready of paint. The livery will be the SECR green livery with Brown frames. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianthesnail96 Posted September 6, 2012 Share Posted September 6, 2012 I wouldn't mind doing one of those someday (no use for one but they are lovely little things), so appreciate you taking the time to go through the build in such detail- cheers. Look forward to seeing it come together. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluebell Model Railway Posted September 6, 2012 Author Share Posted September 6, 2012 Thank you Matt, its a nice kit... quite easy to build up... just on the painting stages at the mo... as I'm experimenting with this one... so it will either look great or rubbish! ha ha should be close to finishing this weekend. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluebell Model Railway Posted September 11, 2012 Author Share Posted September 11, 2012 Part 2.... Whilst the chassis was in the painting stage... I continued with the body... Most white metal fittings had been added by this stage, and was thinking of priming it ready for painting... for some reason I changed my mind.. I decided to look at my 2 previous P-Class builds... and decided to detail it a bit further. On my previous kits, I had not added any Lamp / Disc irons on the front or rear of the loco. On this one how every it was about to change.... The lamp Irons added to the loco were made with what I call Cotter Pins... these pins came with a loco kit i purchased a few years ago I kept them for any prupose i would find for them later on... I used them on the Q1 replacing a missing lamp iron on the buffer beam.. I bent the pin in to shape for the buffer beam, and the smoke box which was pretty simple and easy with a pair of pliers... and a 0.3 mm drill bit. They came out pretty well.... Back to the chassis... the main chassis and wheels had been primed, ready for painting.. the chassis will be painted, SECR Loco Brown P576 a few coats was needed to fully cover the chassis...as can be seen the wheels were still in grey primer... these would be later painted the SECR Loco Green P575, and Satin Black outline from the Humbrol range... After painting was done, the re-assembly on the chassis could begin.. Firstly on the bottom plastic plate which holds the wheels in place, the Brake rods which on terriers run on the outside along side the wheels, needs to be cut off... to give the chassis the correct appearence... you can do this with a knife or some cutters... and file any excess off.... This was the re-assembled with motor and complete wheels which had been varnished and then given a test run, which went well... this was done to test the newly placed pickups under the cab. Having a close up on the finished chassis you can see the rear pickup has moved a long way forward. On the plans done by Dean Sidings it says to move the rear pickup under the chassis... which I didn't like too much as it required alot of moving around wires ect... This method which I do... the pickup block is glued in place between the 2 sander box housing... the pickup block is shortened as well as the bronze pickup strips and bent to what I need them to be... You can see a comparison on the shot below... Gives you some idea of how much is cut away... Also this chassis being a Stepney chassis from the Thomas range... ment the connecting rods were red... after a small investigation it was found the rods were painted without chroming them first... so a visit to Abbiegails Hornby spares web page was in order and purchased some chrome connecting rods at a very good price. This shot shows these installed as well as the finished wheels. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluebell Model Railway Posted September 15, 2012 Author Share Posted September 15, 2012 Part 3 With the chassis just about complete. Attention turned to the body once again. The next thing to do before painting, was cab detail. In the kit there is a Backhead casting...no floor, or surrounding parts. The casting position was marked out on a Plasticard card, which is quite far forward 3.5mm from the front of the cab, to give clearence for the gears and motor. The small square area cut out is to allow the fixing srew through. Some additional pipes were added around the boiler to add a little, as the boiler back head is a bit bland and flat... pipes were made and bent in to shape using some nickle plated wire. Meanwhile the body was ready for primer, I use Halfords primer, available in a few different colours, white or grey, are the ones I usually use. I apply 1 light coat and look for any areas that need sanding down and levelling and then add a second. Some painting can now start after priming the body. The paints I use to have accurate colours on these are Phoenix Precision Paints. The start of painting began with the running plate, this in SECR was Loco Brown (P576). A glimpse of the trail fitted cab which has also been painted up... As far as the painting goes.. I started out with the main green colour of the livery, SECR Loco green (P575). Some gold parts were then painted, then the lighter green lining and boiler banding, which is called SECR Lining green (P579). Following this the darker colour of black is applied to the roof, running plate, safety valves and smokebox. Before the buffer beams are painted, a small hole was drilled in the centre of the buffer beam to take the small Hornby detailing screw link coupling. Once complete and a trail fitting undertaken, once ok, the buffer beam was then painted, as well as the top of the safety valaves. This was then completed ment a start on the final part the transfers, which will be coming up in the next part. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poggy1165 Posted September 16, 2012 Share Posted September 16, 2012 Very impressive job! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluebell Model Railway Posted September 16, 2012 Author Share Posted September 16, 2012 Cheers thanks for your comment, still quite a bit to do hopefully shall get it done next week pending when things turn up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluebell Model Railway Posted September 30, 2012 Author Share Posted September 30, 2012 Final part of the P-Class Build.... Last time the loco was painted in its base colours, SECR Green, Black, and SECR frame brown, and any other colour you may find on a loco... Anyway the fun part of the SECR livery... the lining... yes there’s a lot of it... one of the more complex liveries... which is being Tackled by Bachmann at the moment for their C-Class... I feel sorry for them.... Anyway so the SECR livery... here’s how it looks on a P-Class... As you can see black and red lining around the edges... boiler bands... have 4 lines, 2 outer red and 2 yellow in the centre. The bands themselves and the pattern on the tanks and cab, are done in a lighter Lining green (P579), This is outline again with lining yellow on the inner edger and red on the outer edge. I wanted to take this build to the next level and do the whole livery and get as close as i could, to the SECR livery, and find ways of doing this as it’s a complex livery to do. The plan was as I have done before.... to do the patterns on the tanks and cab, I would make my own transfers... with a little help from the Bluebell.... I visited the Bluebell end of July this year... typical of my Luck the night before I learn the P-Class 178 with the SECR livery one was not working due to it being broken.. luckily thanks to the H-Class being returned to service... I could use that one instead... I took a number of photos of parts of the livery, so I had something to work from.... After my return from the Bluebell I spent around 2 weeks trying to get what I wanted... The difficult park was colour matching the paint with the Laser printers toner... you will never get a 100% match.... Firstly using Crafty Computer paper, water slide transfer paper for Laser printers... I experimented with various types of paper... as you can get clear... or white backed transfer paper...First off after 2 weeks of drawing I had my first batch to trial on the kit... These were designed for the clear backed transfer paper, so that the green behind would show through thus being the correct colour... sadly this did not work as the print wasn't strong enough, and pretty much blended in with the backing colour... so back to PhotoStudio.... A week later, I had coloured the back ground with the same SECR Green... or close enough to it..., and did a few test prints for size and colour match...after several tests i fixed the size and colour, and the resolution, and also drew boxes round transfers so i could position them correctly... all be one didn't come out quite as expected but believe i know why.... so Take 2... First Image was the test piece which I did on some spare transfer paper... these were too large and were decreased in size to around 207 DPI. The final transfers ready to print..... Lining out continued on other parts of the loco, the Boiler bands were lined out and fixed in place with some clear varnish... The old waterslides on the cab were removed the next day for the newly re-sized transfers... So D-Day had arrived.... the new waterside transfers were printed... and applied... amazingly to the right size... which was good... so the plan was working... many may say why not to the whole size lettering lining the lot.... that’s too easy... I have to make it difficult! Anyway this is how it looked after the initial application.... All be the colour of the transfer was not quite spot on... I took the decision to try and blend it in with the surrounding paint work on the body... so using the same paint (p575) I blended it in with surrounding body colour... which was done very carefully.... After leaving it to dry overnight, I returned to kit to make a start on the black outline of the tanks, cab ect... this would then be later lined with HMRS pressfix Red lining. During the morning, I had also started lining the running plate, with Yellow HMRS pressfix transfers. The black lining was hand painted on. A small hole was made to accept the steam reverser casting which was yet to be fitted... which will be done after all the red lining had been completed. ..................................................................................................................... So on to giving the loco its identity... Fox water slide transfers were used for the tanks, on the rear of the card, it says these transfers were to be Used on P-Class locos... well... I must say there a tight fit, looking at various images of P-Class.. the lettering seems to vary in size... but having no other transfers... apart from ones being exactly the same size... I decided that I could just about make them fit.... All lining and transfers were sealed in with Vallejo acrylic varnish Satin, and left to dry over night. Next thing was to give the loco its number, this P-Class being Primrose, being numbered 27, instead of a plate on the side of the bunker... this P-Class had brass numbers on the side, which I followed on this occasion, and the numbers are Etched brass available from Roxey mouldings... They were glued on with a tiny amount of Superglue Gel. The kit then received the numbers on the buffer beam...all be these did not come from the SECR sheet, looking at the SECR locos the P-Class had yellow shaded with black outlined numbers... so decided against the gold ones. These applied, and then a final coat of varnish applied... .................................................................................................... Before the last varnish which was to be an all over spray of Vallejo Matt Varnish, the components left off to ease access to the body were put on.... ................................................................................................... The loco was left to dry and assembled in the morning... and taken for a test run... all ran ok no issues... so off to have its picture taken... the Last P-class I will do for a while is complete. 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Castle Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 Hi Matt, Blimey - that is quite a lot of lining! I am glad my current 1361 class project is plain black and filth... All the best, Castle P.S. you need to get a GWR pannier to go with that Dukedog now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brake Compo Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 Lovely paint job, unfortunate that the proportions of the cab on the kit are terrible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluebell Model Railway Posted October 1, 2012 Author Share Posted October 1, 2012 Thank you guys, sadly I guess thats the downside on a kit like this... its made to suit something else, end of the day did the best job i could do... Castle, yes well pannier is only staying to christmas... once they get the S15 done, i would guess that would go home... Yes nearly forgot about the Dukedog... as Ive not seen or heard anything from Bachmann... its still in the tooling room all be i would image a sample will be at Warley... Thanks for the comments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Castle Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 Hi Matt, Anything I can do to encourage the collecting of GWR machines... Just kidding - it is the fact we all love different stuff that makes the hobby and RMWEB so interesting! Not that I need one but I am looking forward to seeing the Bachmann Dukedog too. Enjoy No. 3650 - she is a lovely little loco with a great bunch of chaps that look after her. All the best, Castle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluebell Model Railway Posted November 5, 2012 Author Share Posted November 5, 2012 19th October 2012 So the Winter project... all be started in August / September, and been looking and research for over a year to do this. So the project will be a LBSC, H2, Atlantic.... you had to see that one coming? It will be BR lined Black, and will be Beachy Head. Its been in planning for a year due to having seen an H2 kit from DJH and a few others, I can't work with brass... as I don't have the tools / equipment to solder a chassis together... so I turned my attention to whats on the RTR market chassis wise... I'll go in to more detail when I start writing up about it, as its close to painting stages... well half of it is... The beginning of Project Madness (LBSCR, H2 Atlantic) Everyone knows none of these beautiful locos exist, or were saved the last one, 32424 Beachy Head was withdrawn / scrapped in April 1958. The Bluebell Railway, is currently re-constructing Beachy Head using GN Atlantic boiler, a LBSC B4 Tender chassis, and using the original Regulator handle form Beachy Head, with the rest being built from scratch. A project which is still on going, which may well be complete in 3 - 4 years, with a near rolling chassis. So got me thinking it was about Time I looked at doing the H2 atlantic... to me a nice locomotive, and looks elegant, when at speed, plus not many 4-4-2 locos are produced by RTR manufacturers... well maybe in the future... but not right now. So How to go about this project... there are a number of kits available, Falcon Brass, Ace models, DJH... most being brass, apart from DJH, but the chassis was brass... and do not have the equipment to build an etched brass chassis. So what were the alternatives.... well not many frankly... I had planned this project out in my mind for around a year... but it wasn't until I got talking to Dean Sidings again when I brought my P-Class did he give me the idea. Dean Sidings was to produce a Resin body H2 Atlantic... but was delayed due to a lack of alternative for a chassis. He told me that the chassis they were looking at was the EX-Dapol Castle Chassis... now under the Hornby name. I looked at several... but the point of where the motor was mounted and the wheel spacing on the driving wheels.. just were not right... so It looked as though I would have to abandon again... but later found out... Hornby reproduced the Castle / Hogwarts castle with a newer chassis.. which drove the middle driving wheel which had a traction tyre... which would date to Mid 2000's. So I managed to get hold of one and also a body from ebay for about £30 - 35. Which is not too bad, before everyone wonders... why use a castle... its the closest to the Atlantic's wheel size you can get and also the wheel spacing... Read on and find out... So A Hornby, Hogwarts Castle for a base... this was the first loco for the project, and was to be the main chassis. How many more locos would be included in this build.... lets see if you can guess.... as I can't remember already! First job was to get some measurements from H2 kits... I got the length... and various measurements and converted them to OO sizes. Then I could re-size an image which I took at the anniversary back in 2010 of a painting / print of the H2 not sure who its by,,, sadly the full size image isn't great. This then became if you like a guide to the build giving me rough measurements of parts and items to source. The chassis was disassembled, and checked up against the print out, to make sure sizes and measurements were correct. Then the planning of cutting and parts came in... what to use... I used the same plan to firstly buy the front bogie... as the spacing on a Castle was too wide... I managed to find a Clan / Britannia bogie. I then replaced the wheels with 14mm ones purchased from the Rails of Sheffield which strangely arrived in a very large box... Next item was the trailing wheel set under the cab, I purchased a A4 / A3 rear trailing wheel set... which needed alot of modification to fit, a new 12mm wheel was fitted to this as well, replacing the old Hornby set. So up to 3 Ex-Hornby Locos.... Now with the components to make the chassis... i then cut the mounting for the last set of driving wheels off, to make space for the rear wheel set.. now making it a 4-4-2. was quite hard work.... then harder work trying to find a way of mounting it to the chassis.... I cut down the arm which had a hole to attach it to the loco it was intended to go on, and moved the hole closer to the main trailing wheel, so it would have a shorter swing but was in the right position for where the wheels should be. The first set of castings arrived from Ace Models, a Chimney, a smoke box door, a Backhead, Dome, and Safety valves... which was around £20... which was quite a bit more than what I was expecting... but still least I had some H2 bits! So 4 locos so far... and more to come! The latest problem I had was the motion, cross head Cyliners... the length of the stroke was also an issue... but scaling up a Hornby photo of a couple of GWR RTR locos soon found me the solution.... the 2800 class. The locos main connection rod from the cross head to the driving wheels was the correct length... and the cylinder and slide bars were not far off as well... so ordered a set from Abbiegails spares.... Alot of re profiling was needed on the cylinders to get them in to the right shape... but more on that later! More casting news... I contacted DJH, the only main White metal kit for an H2, after much pleading on forums to get an Instruction manual for the kit to order some castings for this project... the day finally arrived were the main body could start..... But they sent the wrong parts... instead they sent H1 parts but at least I could still make a start... it was sorted out a few days later. Above the wrong running plate... this one for an H1... if anyone wants it I still have it. Next part soon. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluebell Model Railway Posted November 5, 2012 Author Share Posted November 5, 2012 Part 2 - 26th October 2012 So the chassis and various motion was sorted... which was quite a big task... the next thing which was a project all in its self... How to fit a kit body to a RTR chassis... After a few days of confusion over who made a cock up on parts from DJH, I now had the correct ones.. The parts I ordered were the following: - Boiler casting - Running plate - Cab - Sides of tender - Smoke box - Smokebox door This was a bit more value for money... only costing £31 for quite large castings.. as i was expecting a lot more so far the bill for this project was in the mid £80's when a full kit for an H2 was around £150. So to work... amazingly not much work was needed to mount the running plate on the chassis.. as the mounting holes on the castle were not too far out from the casting... only bit of work needed was to lower a section of the chassis after the main driving wheels and around the cylinders. The body needed some modification to accept the larger motor and gearbox... but wasn't too bad. After the main concern was addressed, i turned my attention to the fitting of the cylinders... working out where they would go and the length of the stroke as the wheels rotate. Strangely they end up in the right place... according to my rough print out... maybe Hornby could save some money here and do it this way too? The EX-2800 GWR cylinders were re-shaped... and the wrapped up in 10/000 plasticard. The chassis rolled freely with no problems at all... which was a bonus... the cylinders are glued on to plasticard... which was put there to fill the gaps around the bogie where the old castle cylinders were. Taking a break from the loco end... I decided to tackle the main part of the conversion which was going to be difficult and rather painful for one of my fingers but anyway... to make a tender base / chassis, I decided to use the Hornby Castle chassis... The Castles tender is quite a bit longer than the H2 tender... I purchased the side tender castings from DJH to guage how long the tender needs to be... and to find out how far my Roughly sided picture was... which turned out to be around 0.5 - 1mm out which isn't bad. The tender chassis turned out to be 3 - 4 mm to long... so... this could be interesting... Very Nicely an error by DJH turned in to a good thing the sent me the under frame of the tender for the kit... which turned in to a good guide on wheel spacing... and how much to cut and from where...between each wheel on the frames i made a cut which reduced the length by 2mm. So 2 cuts and the frame was 4mm shorter. The 3 sections were then glued back together and strengthened using plasticard in certain areas then filler was used to hide and cuts. Some plasticard was then used to lengthen the front of the frames where it connects to the loco. So on to the Tender body itself... again I shall use the Hornby tender... which I cut the Tank off just leaving the frame and the running plate.... which sits on the tender chassis. Again I shortened this up so it would fit. Then strengthened the body up using plasticard. Obviously as stated I have the cast tender sides... but what about the bunker, the back and the front? From ebay for a couple of quid... I purchased a tender top from a Sell one like this Hornby L7353 Flying Scotsman /Mallard Tender Top... all be not sure about the Mallard part... You can sort of see Why i brought it.. as it was sort of the same... but anyway 50% went in the bin. What was the reason for buying this? well not only for the front and back... but to save weight. Having got locos with full White Metal tenders... some locos struggle just to pull the tender let alone the coaches behind... so its a battle of getting enough weight but not to much... so the only parts of the tender which were white metal were the sides, front and back from Donner tender and the coal space made from plasticard... using diagrams from the instructions and photos. Thats the main building part... Part 3 will be adding more bits and pieces detailing ect... 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Castle Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 Hi Matt, While I obviously cannot condone the cutting up of a Castle (just kidding - it was one of those horrible Potter types anyhow!), this has been a tour de force of making RTR work for you - absolutely brilliantly too! This has got me thinking about a model of Atlantic style No. 2999. Perhaps I might have trouble fitting that into my late 1940s to mid 1950s time period though... Keep up the good work. All the best, Castle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluebell Model Railway Posted November 7, 2012 Author Share Posted November 7, 2012 I apologise Castle... i sure hope you don't have nightmares... maybe i should of re-done the title GWR fans look away now? Well maybe you may have difficulty fitting it in but end of the day modellers liecense... end of the day we all have desires or wants... end of the day its your layout.. and you can run what ever you wish... as long as no-one sees haha. Part 3 This really is adding on the little bits and finishing off before painting. Before that I decided to Test the chassis... as every thing had been connected and freewheeling for quite a few weeks.. This would show if my mad plan would work... or it would fail... so time for the rolling road... Click to view video. As can be seen it ran OK, quite alot of movement but thats to be expected when theres no weight on the chassis, should settle down with the body on top, the advantage to having white metal bodies.. weight = traction. Anyway detailing, On the tender Lamp / Disc irons, holders, these were made from some split pins, bent in to shape with some pliers, drill a small hole and glue and fix in position. The split pins were brought from mainly trains and they were 1/32 inch, by 1/2 inch. Also you may of spotted newly installed brass buffers, these were purchased from Ace models.. as I saw from a picture theres had LBSC buffers... and brought a set for a reasonable £5.50. Also found in my spares box is a brake column i guess from the B4 kit, and also not pictured tool boxes on either side of the coal space. I did have a small go at making my own steps... but they didn't come out to well, trying to use some 30/000 plasticard, and off cuts of brass for the steps... i made a couple but didn't think they would last too long... I put the loco on the desk and thought about it for a little while... returning for drawing up some plans for guitars ect, it suddenly dawned on me... You can also see on this image above some 1mm brass was ordered from ebay, and bent to make i guess the blower pipe from cab to smoke box. My H2 was was sitting right next to the answer all the time... my N15 which I don't run much as it won't go round the corners... but looking at the cab / tender steps compared to the print out I have... they were pretty close... so an Order went in to Abbiegails Hornby spares... and to sets of detailing for an N15 arrived, heres a comparison.... Also purchased some small handrail knobs to do the loco boiler, and also the medium type, which will be use mostly. After some additions to the tender... the tool boxes and also the back of the coal space, the tender was then primed... and any issues filled and sorted,, ready for painting. The Loco So on to the loco... firstly I worked on the back-head which i brought from Ace Models, I have extended the back of it by 2.5mm which some plasticard to made sure there was room for the motor. Other issue with this motor is about 2.5mm of motor shaft sticks out the back. Sadly this meant leaving some space, or in other words drill in the back head before painting... anyway, sadly on these things... you sometimes have to compromise. A floor was put in the cab, which sits around the tail of the Hornby chassis.. and rests on a lip around the top edge. this raised the height to be just equal with the floor on the tender. I then turned attention back to the buffer beam, adding various pipework and due to my N15 part order I also took the 2 spare Couplings from that and added those to the tender and loco buffer beams. As can be seen in this picture the hand rail knobs have been fitted, to the smoke-box and the boiler, these are the medium type, as well as the smoke-box handle. After this I also did another test run of the chassis but this time with loco body, I made some adjustments to make the slidebar a bit more smooth running to cut down on some movement, and lubricated the gearbox. The weight of the body or modifications made to the various parts seem to improve the performance.... Click image for video. On to the loco roof, which didn't exist, now it does, made from 20/000 plasticard, and also fine plasticard strips which i purchased for another project which I believe was the LNWR observation cars roof, The Styrene strips 0.4 x 0.5mm were used to go round the edges and across to the roof to create the ridges. The Safety valves also got some attention... the safety valves on this Atlantic are a twin lever type.. unlike the one you find on most locos. I drilled 4 holes, 1mm Die, and inserted some wire in to the holes, I tinned them with some solder, then went back to the trusty split pins and bent 2 in to the shape of the levers above the safety valve housing. which came out ok. These were then soldered on to the wire bases. Same split pins as before, on the right you will see one already bent ready to be copied. Back to steps... I made the final 2 steps which are located between the 2 driving wheels, these were scratch built using 30/000 plasticard, 20/000 for the middle step, and 10/000 for the bottom step. Also some had rail was added to the cab hand rail knobs, as well as the smoke-box. Also hand rail in the cab area was fitted... this is not normal hand rail wire I'm using... old guitar strings are used... saves some money.... seeing as I'm around the £105 mark. Another addition to the front of the loco was the guard irons which are placed in front of the leading set of wheels, front and rear, to avoid anything going under the wheels. These were made up from spare bits of brass, and bent in to the shape required. More work on the cab, a 20/000 plasticard was fitted to the cab floor as well as some more brass to make the fall plate I think its called... this worked out quite well, and was glued in to place sandwiched between 2 layers of plasticard, the back head was also trial fitted. and was enough clearance around the shaft. Part 4 - Connections and painting.... 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markeg Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 Hi Matt, Well done on the Brighton Atlantic project. Its looking good. Reminds me of the time at the Bluebell rly when i saw the Atlantic in the back of the workshop. Beachy Head we visited/walked the seven sisters withsome friends too. Mark in OZ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earlswood Nob Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 Good morning all A good thread that brings back memories. I remember seeing a full size Beachy Head working an up train through Earlswood in 1956/7. It was the only atlantic that I ever saw. I crowed over my schoolmates that evening when we met to spot what was on the 1815 to Cannon Street usually a King Arthur. I've often thought of building one and your thread may encourage me to do so. Earlswood Nob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S.A.C Martin Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 Spectacular work Matt - having seen the finished article elsewhere, it is absolutely breathtaking how you have made summat from nothing like this. Terrific work. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike G Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 Probably one of the best uses if an R-T-R chassis I've ever seen, brilliant idea! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Castle Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 Hi Matt, This keeps getting better! Very nice indeed. I have had a bit of a stall on my No. 1363 project but this is motivating me to cracking on again with it at the weekend. Kit + RTR Chassis = groovy models! All the best, Castle 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluebell Model Railway Posted November 8, 2012 Author Share Posted November 8, 2012 Groovy models.. nice might have to pinch that. Thanks all for comments so far, its certainly been interesting project for sure, i had some doubts a year ago when thinking I want to do an atlantic on a rtr chassis, finding a chassis with the right driving wheel spacing, motor position ect... Strangley theres not been any major oh dear moments when nothing fitted... it sort of made itself... and went together easily.. I'll post the next part up tomorrow for you all to read... and for GWR fans to cringe at... or go and read Catles thread... which is much better than this one.. as its a bit Southern. haha. cheers M 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Castle Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 or go and read Catles thread... Moo? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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