Jon020 Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 Dear all, I wasn't sure whether to post in here or in the kitbuilding thread... but here goes. If I'm in the wrong, please redirect me Mod(s). Some of you may have seen one or two of my workbench blogs that I've been wittering away on about my conversion of a Bachmann Class 55 with Mr Hansons finest extreme etches... I've got to the point where I need to start working the bogies and tanks... and here I'm scrabbling for info/help. It looks as though the bogies might need to move in a bit... this would be the same as for the class 37s and I know that Jon S (43179) stated that he'd done this on his 37... as had some others, by cutting the frame back and glueing it back on. Trouble is, I haven't seen anyone attempt a 55 bogie and the front end looks a little different so I'm not sure where to make that cut. Any advice that can be thrown my way will be well received and digested. I've already fitted the P4 wheel sets, which look great, but there's still some room to move the outer frames in a bit. I also want to improve upon the moulded representation of the front prongy things... I really have no idea what these are called... the bits that point forward to keep the track debris away from teh wheels. The moulded ones are not really repersentative of where they should be... the Hornby class 50 ones look better. I wondered about a plastic protrusion to represent this, and this may still be my preferred option, although I realise that metal would be more robust. Chris Pendleton made some for his sprung bogies (MRJ)... but there are few photos. Anu suggestions? Finally, whilst there's some additional pipework to add to the fuel tanks... Chris Pendleton mentioned that these too needed to be moved inwards a bit... but I can't confirm this, nor work out how on earth to tackle this... again, any suggestions greatfully received. And I've not started on the sanding pipes yet! In case you aren't familiar with my blogs... here's a quick shot of my loco's progress to date... although there's still much to do, I'm pleased so far. Thanks for any help you're able to provide Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon020 Posted January 17, 2011 Author Share Posted January 17, 2011 Pete, yes guard irons... that's the term. I got some thin section from Eileens at Scaleforum... but not L section, which is what I should've got. Thanks. Thanks also for the bogie cutting clues... I'll have a closer look at the bogies tomorrow to see what I can do. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Pete, yes guard irons... that's the term. I got some thin section from Eileens at Scaleforum... but not L section, which is what I should've got. Thanks. Thanks also for the bogie cutting clues... I'll have a closer look at the bogies tomorrow to see what I can do. Thanks That was Paul not Pete.. Its actually T section, top view: http://brianhanson.fotopic.net/p48540590.html I think this is the fixing: http://brianhanson.fotopic.net/p43571828.html Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon020 Posted January 18, 2011 Author Share Posted January 18, 2011 Craig, (it is Craig is it... never sure these days ).... thanks for the clarification and further pointers to Brain's photos which I'll dig out for referecne. I think Brian has more somewhere. Ooh and thanks for the correction.. sorry Paul.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dagworth Posted January 18, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 18, 2011 The 'deflectors' you refer to sound like you mean the 'guard irons' We always knew them as life guards. Andi Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
roythebus Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 Deltics weren't fitted with sanders, so they wouldn't have sand pipes on the bogies. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon020 Posted January 20, 2011 Author Share Posted January 20, 2011 Deltics weren't fitted with sanders, so they wouldn't have sand pipes on the bogies. Sorry... but I think you'll find that until the mid 1970s, they were. The two hatches either side of the tail light assemblies at each end, and the two on each side were for sand box filling. The pipes dropped out underneath the fron ends, attaching to the Front (outer ends) of the bogies ... and from a very visible hopper bottom to the rear (inner end) of the bogies... both by the brake blocks. What I need to establish is how they fitted to the bogies. Martin Walker kindly sent me a copy of the GA of D9000 showing these... although the detail was not visible..... but he allowed me access to 55022 if I was in the area... and Rob M, of this parish, took me around so that I could see whether the exits for the pipework was still there - and it was. I also found that it was different on 55016. In a blog entry some months ago, I posted one of these photos.... this is 55022, looking up at the No. 2 end (B side) showing the hole where the sand pipe fitted... http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php/blog/587/entry-5088-another-deltic-detailing-project-in-4mm-some-progress/ what I'm still curious about is where it attaches to the bogie - all evidence of this being long gone. Although I'd imagine it to be similar to that of the 37s. If you look at photos, you'll see the pipes running down from the nose corners to the bogies just outboard of the airbrake pipes (once fitted)... from behind the original horn mounts. After ETS install, the pipes tended to route out sideways. behind the buhherbeam steps... looking a bit odd. They disapperared some time around 75-76.... and the sandbox hatches were plated over coincident with overhaul (usually when the headcode panels were done)... although 55020 was done before that (it seems to vary). I understand that the sanding system was dispensed with and some form of metal filings used instead.... although having read this in the Finsbury park book, I'm still none the wiser as to what this other method was. I'm doing a pre 1975 55020... so the sanding pipes will be relevant. Thank Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon020 Posted January 20, 2011 Author Share Posted January 20, 2011 From memory of the bogie construction the best way to cut the side frames will be with a razor saw behind the side of the frames. Some of the bogie materials from manufactureres is a soft plastic, difficult to glue. You can make pins from 0.9mm brass wire drilled through the side frames into the bogie chassis to give a new/additional fixing points. I cant recall how the tanks fit the Deltic but again I'd look at using a razor saw to cut along the length of the tanks removing a section to suit, because of their shape a section along the centre of the model will possibly work. Dear Paul, (I got it right this time ) do you have any suggestions about which is the best glue to put these back togther again with... once pins added? I've some CA glues (Zap-a-gap pink and green), and Rocket Max.... but I'd expect the Z-A-G to be too thin to bond the soft plastic, but will grip the metal pins well... but possibly not the plastic . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
briz1234 Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 Hi Jon, I have attached some pics of the fuel tank mods that I did.. this is definately not a job for the faint hearted! I started by drilling out the excess material between the tanks and the chassis frame and finished off with a file/sharp scalpel around all the brackets/pipework.. a job made easier by thinning the inside of the chassis in this area with a burr in a mini drill ,the brackets were then split at the mid point to leave the brackets on the tanks and the corresponding mountings on the chassis (as seen here: http://brianhanson.fotopic.net/p43571839.html ) by carefully cutting with a very sharp scalpel (in the pics below, silver on the tanks, black on the chassis?.. ) It is then possible to cut the tank assemblies from both sides with a razor saw, (the two tanks from each side being joined by the fuel filler pipes)and cleaned up/filed to the correct wedge shape, you will notice there is a flat between the fuel and water tanks on the underside.. this area when removed allows the fuel tanks to be moved inwards to their correct width.. Whilst the tanks were off I filed the ridge from the front faces and recessed the gauge (which should sit slightly lower) http://brianhanson.fotopic.net/p43571838.html using a drill bit by hand to create the conical shape (the outer rim and fuel gauge are from a test etch.. might have some more somewhere! ) and the strips with the bolt heads on the underside of the tanks were added from a sheet of wagon strapping from scalelink. Once all glued back together (I reinforced the inside with fillets of plasticard which also requires some width to be filed off the weight.. unless you're fitting speakers here of course!!) there is now room behind the brackets to fit the steam heat pipes which are made from brass rod wound with paper masking tape cut into thin strips to represent the lagging, and painted white.. Hope these ramblings makes some sense and are of use!.. Cheers Brian P.S. the sanding pipes are attached to the bottom of the brake hangers/adjusters and are exactly the same arrangment as on the 37.. see here: http://brianhanson.fotopic.net/p49262298.html B) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon020 Posted January 25, 2011 Author Share Posted January 25, 2011 Dear Brian, I didn't know whether I was faint hearted or not.... at least I didn't until I read your response. Lummy! Yes, this is quite a job. I'm going to have to digest all of this before deciding whether to plump for this in total or partial. I admit, that I did want to see some pipes behind the tank brackets and give some depth to this area, and improve the tanks' look... (bottom lip and fuel tank gauge (something else I'd not thought about )...) reprofiling the tanks and then moving them in, I'll need to look closely at. I've taken the weight out (so I could fit a speaker if I go that way) so I have the space to play with. Thanks for the extra photos... do you have any that might be useful that aren't on your fotopic site ...?? You have my e-mail if you have a chance. I've dropped the bogies a little more, but stopped short of slimming them down. I wasn't convinced that I could maintain it's structural integrity once cut-and-shut ... with the clips holding it all togther. Once fully dropped, it doesn't seem too wide... and I've thinned the front corners to take the towing brackets, which looks better. Ive taken the brake cylinders off and plan to add Hornby class 50 ones instead (now sat in spares box)... and add wires for the hydraulics. Unless, you convince me that it really will look better - did you thin your bogies (I know uuugh... nothing orrid sounding intended ). So, your response has beat me to phoning you... and I thank you (as always) for your help. I'll have a think and see what I can do. Why oh why did Bachmann make it so tricky... when the 37s are so much easier . Thanks for the photo of the sand pipe connection too.... found one similar in "The book of the Deltics" just last night - but yes, this gives me the detail model. I hope you think I'm doing your parts justice... I hope that the final result meets the effort. It should do.... it's been fun so far. Hope to see you at Ali Pali... Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
briz1234 Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 ..Go on Jon, you know 'ya wanna!.. Email sent Cheers Brian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Ive taken the brake cylinders off and plan to add Hornby class 50 ones instead I do wish Hornby would sell these seperately! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon020 Posted January 26, 2011 Author Share Posted January 26, 2011 I do wish Hornby would sell these seperately! James.., as do I. Can't see why not... they're missing a trick there. Got two bogie units, but then had to rob 4 more off my Hornby Illustrious as a stop-gap before I get another bogie... you only get to use 4 per bogie as two are different for the steps... so. it'll do fine for a 37 re-fit... but you need 6 clear ones for a 55 bogie... which I've now got to add. An expensive addition, but not something I'm going to do to every one of the fleet... life's too short for that ... might do at least one more... a brace of Deltics fits my mood at the moment... will look nice in a small shed B) . Oh, and thanks for following... your earlier 37 stuff was really useful to me when I was starting. I hope I'm making the grade . BRs.... Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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