Black Sheep Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 I'm thinking of having my first attempt at building a loco, I've always loved the look of the streamlined coronation and despite it being too big for my little branchline, I don't care, It can be a rail tour or something! I'm looking at using the langley kit which is based on a Minitrix Britannia, which seem to be a little hard to get hold of, they do say you can use a Farish Duchess chassis with some modification, I was wondering if anyone knew how much modification was needed to the duchess chassis and how much work is involved. I'm thinking this will be easier than other locomotives to build (I'll sort painting those stripes later!) as it's more like a full body shell to be put on, similar to a rail car or diesel instead of multiple parts. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BernardTPM Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 I'm thinking this will be easier than other locomotives to build (I'll sort painting those stripes later!) Wartime black? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Sheep Posted January 21, 2011 Author Share Posted January 21, 2011 Had thought about wartime black Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nebnoswal Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 The Corro was one of the 1st kits I ever did, over 10 years ago now. The Langley casting is a bit rough, just a big lump of whitemetal, shaped like a bathtub . I had to do a lot filling on the inside for the clearances of the Minitrix chassis, to prevent shorting. I'm happy with the end result, but realise now I can further improve it with handrails, brass buffers etc etc. There was an article in one of the railway mags many years ago about the conversion to using a Farish Duchess chassis, and the Langley website say's it needs an adaption to fit the Duchess. If I remember rightly it was something to do with adding a spacer to support the front end. Did you know FOX transfers make lining decals for the Corro. Thats what I used, much neater than painting. The whiskers on the nose were a bit tricky as there was no carrier film and I spent some time getting them right. They do them in both silver and gold (which I still haven't goten round to doing, yet ). They also do the lining for the coaches. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BernardTPM Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 Both the Farish Duchess and Minitrix Britannia chassis have underscale wheels on them (the proper see-through Brit wheels look better but the Farish slidebars and valve gear are better). Have you considered using a Royal Scot or Jubilee? The streamline tender should easily fit over the tender drive and you'll have a much better looking front bogie and driving wheels. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sailor Charon Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 Both the Farish Duchess and Minitrix Britannia chassis have underscale wheels on them (the proper see-through Brit wheels look better but the Farish slidebars and valve gear are better). Have you considered using a Royal Scot or Jubilee? The streamline tender should easily fit over the tender drive and you'll have a much better looking front bogie and driving wheels. The potential problem with that is that you won't have a trailing bogie, so you'll need to get one from somewhere. I don't quite know where. I was thinking about using the Jubilee as the basis for a Princess. Or possibly the rebuilt Jubilee from 'Living with London Midland Steam' (also a pacific) but wasn't sure where to get the trailing bogie. But if you can sort that, then yes, that would seem to be a good idea. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Sheep Posted January 22, 2011 Author Share Posted January 22, 2011 could a trailing bogie not be knocked up from a bit of waggon kit for the axle boxes and axle? so, you'd recommend hunting down a tatty farish dutchess? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kris Posted January 22, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 22, 2011 Look at BR lines for the trailing bogie. Those wheels are readily available and I think that they had the bogies themselves. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BernardTPM Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 I was going to suggest that but first checked on BR Lines website and couldn't find it. By the looks of it the trailing sideframe detail comes with the Coronation kit (presumably because the Brit has a true pony truck) so it should be possible to come up with something. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sailor Charon Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 I had a look at the Worsley Works site. It seems they make an etch for the Britannia trailing bogie in 3mm. I sent them an email to see if I can order one (or several) in N gauge. I've got some fun plans for them... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Al Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 Another motorisation option is the Peco Jubilee. There were a number of competition winning streamlined Coronations in a recent NGS Journal powered in this way. Cheers, Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Sheep Posted January 27, 2011 Author Share Posted January 27, 2011 does anyone know what modifications are required with the various options of power? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Flying Pig Posted January 27, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 27, 2011 The biggest compromise if using the Jubilee chassis is the driving wheel spacing: 7'4" + 8'0" on the Jub against a symmetrical 7'3" + 7'3" on the Coronation. The bogie is also slightly too short (6'6" on most Jubilees against 7'6" on the Coronation). On the other hand, driving wheel diameter and tender axle spacing are the same for both classes. I've mocked up a Jubilee-chassied loco (bottom) using pictures of the Hornby 00 model - personally, I think it would be worth stretching the bogie to preserve the character of the loco. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sailor Charon Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 The biggest compromise if using the Jubilee chassis is the driving wheel spacing: 7'4" + 8'0" on the Jub against a symmetrical 7'3" + 7'3" on the Coronation. The bogie is also slightly too short (6'6" on most Jubilees against 7'6" on the Coronation). On the other hand, driving wheel diameter and tender axle spacing are the same for both classes. I've mocked up a Jubilee-chassied loco (bottom) using pictures of the Hornby 00 model - personally, I think it would be worth stretching the bogie to preserve the character of the loco. Thanks for that. I was having a few worries about how the difference in wheel spacing would look. I didn't realise the tender wheel spacing was the same either, so that's... made life more expensive With regard to the front bogie, N Brass Locos make a front bogie that they say is suitable for LMS 4-6-0 and pacific types, so that might be worth a try. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Flying Pig Posted January 28, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 28, 2011 I was having a few worries about how the difference in wheel spacing would look. It would be spot on for the rebuilt Jubilee of course Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianwales Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 I was thinking about using the Jubilee as the basis for a Princess. Or possibly the rebuilt Jubilee from 'Living with London Midland Steam' (also a pacific) but wasn't sure where to get the trailing bogie. Hi The rebuilt Jubilees 5735/6 were not pacifics, they were Jubs fitted with I think 2A boilers, they still retained the 4-6-0 wheel arrangement. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Flying Pig Posted January 28, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 28, 2011 I think we're talking about the what-if rebuild envisaged by A.J. Powell in his book "Living with London Midland Locomotives", which was a Pacific using a boiler similar to that actually used on the Britannias. Styling would have been similar to 6256/7. You're right about the actual rebuilt Jubilees. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sailor Charon Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 I think we're talking about the what-if rebuild envisaged by A.J. Powell in his book "Living with London Midland Locomotives", which was a Pacific using a boiler similar to that actually used on the Britannias. Styling would have been similar to 6256/7. You're right about the actual rebuilt Jubilees. Yes, that's the one. It's slightly confusing that he calls it a rebuilt Jubilee, but... I just like the idea. And of all the ideas in the book, that's the one that's doable in N gauge. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Al Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 With regard to the front bogie, N Brass Locos make a front bogie that they say is suitable for LMS 4-6-0 and pacific types, so that might be worth a try. The N brass bogie is not right for the Duchess - it suffers the same issues in that the wheelbase is too short (really only suitable for Black 5, Jub etc for which it is correct). I've lengthened the N brass bogies I've used on my Duchesses which looks much better. Cheers, Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sailor Charon Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 The N brass bogie is not right for the Duchess - it suffers the same issues in that the wheelbase is too short (really only suitable for Black 5, Jub etc for which it is correct). I've lengthened the N brass bogies I've used on my Duchesses which looks much better. Cheers, Alan Thanks for that. Their website didn't make that clear. How hard are they to lengthen by the way? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2mm Dabbler Posted January 29, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 29, 2011 To quote Ben of Oz the Langley loco casting is "a big lump of whitemetal". I would question whether a model built using a current Graham Farish 4-6-0, which are tender powered, could cope with both the weight of the loco body casting and a decent, or indeed any, length of train. This is one problem traction tyres may not overcome. Regards Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BernardTPM Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 Well, the streamlined tender body is another big lump of whitemetal too, so that should help traction. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kris Posted January 29, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 29, 2011 Could make fitting the motor in interesting then Bernard. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Al Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 How hard are they to lengthen by the way? Depends how you do it, but if you're deft with a soldering iron and have some scrap brass etch about it shouldn't pose a desperately difficult problem: Cheers, Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BernardTPM Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 Could make fitting the motor in interesting then Bernard. It's going to be hollow and the streamline tender is quite a bit taller than the Jubilee/Scot type. Obviously heavier than a plastic tender body all the same. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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