Buhar Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 I am having to make another batch of Dinghams and since the last time my eyesight has worsened and I seem to be less dextrous. Each one is taking ages. Does anyone have any dodges for assembly (I'm using the type 2 latch), particularly ones that might help with getting the job done in a reasonable time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davknigh Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 Alan, I start off following the ideas on the instruction sheet about using a jig from scrap MDF to get all the pivot wires at 90 degrees to the coupling hook. I have taken to using Carr's solder cream as it means less clean-up after. After soldering I have found that for type 2 latch and the loops the greatest help is pre trimming the pivot wire using some sort of spacer to get the right length. I use a 2 mm thick ruler on its side and a pair of Xuron cutters to trim and then touch up with a jeweler's file to make assembly easier. Have you considered a headband type magnifier? I find mine invaluable. Cheers, David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 I am having to make another batch of Dinghams and since the last time my eyesight has worsened and I seem to be less dextrous. Each one is taking ages. Does anyone have any dodges for assembly (I'm using the type 2 latch), particularly ones that might help with getting the job done in a reasonable time. Hi Alan. I've been fitting Dinghams for a couple of years now and use the following method. First got myself an old wagon and set it up as the default coupler that all others have to match. Then took a piece of 18mm MDF and cut a slot for the hook so that it was held fairly tight when pressed in. Then I filed a groove across the MDF where the pivot wire would lay once passed through the hole on the hook The pivot wire is then positioned in the hook, both being held in place by the slot and the groove and the solder joint made. I've also designed a swinging dingham for LWB vehicles. Hope this helps Dave Smith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scanman Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 Cheers folks - I've been looking into these couplers in 4mm for the last few days - seriously tempted, and this advice helps Regs Ian B Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davknigh Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 I've also designed a swinging dingham for LWB vehicles. Hope this helps Dave Smith Dave, At the risk of hijacking the thread, could you please expand on your "swinging Dingham"? It looks like a brilliant idea. Cheers, David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isambard Kingdom Brunel Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 Dave, At the risk of hijacking the thread, could you please expand on your "swinging Dingham"? It looks like a brilliant idea. Cheers, David I have started using Dinghams presently have a loco and some goods wagons, would also be interested in The Swinging Dinghams. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 Dave, At the risk of hijacking the thread, could you please expand on your "swinging Dingham"? It looks like a brilliant idea. Cheers, David Hi Guys. During tomorrow, I'll take a few detail photos so that you can see how I've done it. Cheers Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 Dave, At the risk of hijacking the thread, could you please expand on your "swinging Dingham"? It looks like a brilliant idea. Cheers, David David. I have taken a few closer shots today for you. Pictures show that the dingham is pushed into a short length of brass tube. I have used a size of tube that requires squeezing into an oval shape to allow the Dingham body to fit. It is thus held in position in the tube, rather than being able to turn. It's then soldered in. Then a short 'flat' is filed on the rear end on the tube to assist a 'solder tag' (8BA I thnk) to be attached. The whole coupling is then lined up in place and the hole drilled for a small self tapper. The bent wire acts as a centralising spring but you may have your own way of acheiving this. Importantly, I have come to the conclusion that it should be the 'loop' end that swings and not the plain hook. No need to do both, me thinks. Hope this helps Dave Smith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 I am intrigued by this device so I did a Google search and came up with this website http://www.dingham.co.uk/ , however the site hasn't been updated since 2007 and I was wondering if its content is still valid Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davknigh Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 David. I have taken a few closer shots today for you. Pictures show that the dingham is pushed into a short length of brass tube. I have used a size of tube that requires squeezing into an oval shape to allow the Dingham body to fit. It is thus held in position in the tube, rather than being able to turn. It's then soldered in. Then a short 'flat' is filed on the rear end on the tube to assist a 'solder tag' (8BA I thnk) to be attached. The whole coupling is then lined up in place and the hole drilled for a small self tapper. The bent wire acts as a centralising spring but you may have your own way of acheiving this. Importantly, I have come to the conclusion that it should be the 'loop' end that swings and not the plain hook. No need to do both, me thinks. Hope this helps Dave Smith Very nice! I have the most trouble with locomotives and as you have observed it seems to be at the loop end. I will have a closer look to see how this idea can be adapted for my problem. Many thanks. Cheers, David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 Very nice! I have the most trouble with locomotives and as you have observed it seems to be at the loop end. I will have a closer look to see how this idea can be adapted for my problem. Many thanks. Cheers, David I've done a few deisels but not steamers as yet. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 I am intrigued by this device so I did a Google search and came up with this website http://www.dingham.co.uk/ , however the site hasn't been updated since 2007 and I was wondering if its content is still valid Regards Hi PenrithBeacon. Yes, still valid as far as I know. Bought couplers last year. Dave Smith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scanman Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 Hi PenrithBeacon. Yes, still valid as far as I know. Bought couplers last year. Dave Smith I sen off a cheque Friday for 20 +2 electromagnets - I'll l let you know when/if they arrive Regs Ian And thanks for the expose on the swinging version - goes totally against the grain of the advice on the website about keeping the coupling tight in the pocket! (BTW DAS - you're not a member of Crawley are you)? Regs Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 I am intrigued by this device so I did a Google search and came up with this website http://www.dingham.co.uk/ , however the site hasn't been updated since 2007 and I was wondering if its content is still valid Regards I've been using the excellent 7mm Dinghams for a few years and can vouch the website is still current for todays product. Cannot comment on the magnets as I use 12v anyway, so no change there. As regards assembling them. I just follow the instructions/advice as supplied. Sadly, I cannot see a less 'fiddly' way to assemble them, as their very nature makes them a bit on the fiddly side. I have made two height gauges that sit hands free on the track. Also I too, have a datum truck to ensure all are exactly the same height and the latch smootly slides over the hook. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 thanks for the expose on the swinging version - goes totally against the grain of the advice on the website about keeping the coupling tight in the pocket! (BTW DAS - you're not a member of Crawley are you)? Regs Ian Sorry, Ian. No its Carshalton & Sutton MRC. Two other thoughts, when making up the couplings, I smooth off the curved face of all hooks and the leading eadges of all loops, hoping this will ease any tendancy to 'stick' whilst trying to couple. Also, of course, blacken with 'Casey Gun Blue' before fitting. Oh, and another. I don't drill holes if I han help it. I saw a slot up from the bottong of the biffer beam with a razor saw. That way, the coupling can be forced into the slot and when at the correct position, a touch of superglue and then Araldite. Good luck. Mail again for any other help you might want. Cheers Dave Smith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike knowles Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 I assume the swinging coupling is so that stock will go round tight curves. We use these couplings very successfully on our club layout which is an end to end type but I can't use the stock on my home layout (a tailchaser) as the couplings derail the stock when going round the curves back to the fiddle yard. Like the method of holding the hook whilst attaching the pivot pin by the way - will give it a try. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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