northolland Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 I own a Hornby A4 that has just blown its second decoder. The first one was a Lenz Silver, one of those without a wiring harness for direct plug-in. Yesterday, it did its 2nd Lenz, an LE1025 I had lying about when the first one went. I have run this engine for a few years, so it takes its time to destroy a decoder, but I am getting suspicious now that this engine has done it a second time. Can anyone shed some light on this, please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevelewis Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 I own a Hornby A4 that has just blown its second decoder. The first one was a Lenz Silver, one of those without a wiring harness for direct plug-in. Yesterday, it did its 2nd Lenz, an LE1025 I had lying about when the first one went. I have run this engine for a few years, so it takes its time to destroy a decoder, but I am getting suspicious now that this engine has done it a second time. Can anyone shed some light on this, please? Do all your other locos perform OK No blown decoders? If so then I would suspect something is amiss on the loco, Personally I would try by passing the onboard PCB and hardwire a decoder, direct to the motor connections. At the same time I would try to check the motor just to be sure it is in good condition as you say it has had a few years use. Hope this helps Steve , Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trains4U Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 Two black fives and two castles have blown their own factory fitted sound decoders so far from our sales. No A4s yet though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Henderson Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 I had problems with an A3 shorting once decoder fitted that I could only resolve by disconnecting the link to the tender pick ups - I did also strip out Hornbys spiders web of wiring and hard wire a Lenz Standard in place but the short persisted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted December 5, 2013 Share Posted December 5, 2013 Hornby A3 shorting , it is showing a "dancing" blue flash between driving wheels but still runs. Extra insulation tape added between valve gear and chassis fitting, no difference. Remove DCC plug and connect direct to motor terminals no short. Any suggestions please before I wire direct to motor. Luckily I dont do DCC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
250BOB Posted December 5, 2013 Share Posted December 5, 2013 I had problems with an A3 shorting once decoder fitted that I could only resolve by disconnecting the link to the tender pick ups - I did also strip out Hornbys spiders web of wiring and hard wire a Lenz Standard in place but the short persisted My pal just a few years ago had a Hornby pacific whose tender had been wired the wrong way round by the factory.....every time the tender was connected, it shorted, because + was going straight to -. Had to take the tender apart, and swap the two wires around.....fine now. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 Hornby A3 shorting , it is showing a "dancing" blue flash between driving wheels but still runs. Extra insulation tape added between valve gear and chassis fitting, no difference. Remove DCC plug and connect direct to motor terminals no short. Any suggestions please before I wire direct to motor... Is this one with the whole chassis block live to one rail? This was typical Hornby construction on new introductions until about 2006 (Britannia) and is still found on earlier designs produced more recently. The giveaway is the (usually blue) wire from the screw holding on the combined motor clamp and worm gear cover to the decoder socket. The ideal cure is to strip the chassis, break off the pin on the chassis base that contacts the wiper strip, and solder on a wire foer the track pick up that side; thus completely isolating the chassis block from the rails. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 Is this one with the whole chassis block live to one rail? This was typical Hornby construction on new introductions until about 2006 (Britannia) and is still found on earlier designs produced more recently. The giveaway is the (usually blue) wire from the screw holding on the combined motor clamp and worm gear cover to the decoder socket. The ideal cure is to strip the chassis, break off the pin on the chassis base that contacts the wiper strip, and solder on a wire foer the track pick up that side; thus completely isolating the chassis block from the rails. Yes thats the type, thanks you for the suggestion and will try it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hallmodelspares Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 I have a Mallard A4 in blue The blanking plate where the chip would go is very loose. Every so often the engine will stop working and then its very difficult to get going again. Probably the worst A4 i have owned s/h though not bought from new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 I have a Mallard A4 in blue The blanking plate where the chip would go is very loose. Every so often the engine will stop working and then its very difficult to get going again. Probably the worst A4 i have owned s/h though not bought from new. Unusual as normally a tight sliding fit. You can get new blanking plates from EKM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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