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Respraying a kit built loco


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Some time ago I brought a ready built Wills GWR U1 off Ebay, its been nicely built (though lacking a bit of detail). The trouble is that the colour is all wrong being nearer Apple green than Brunswick.

 

I have another U1 which I have detailed and resprayed and it looks all wrong when its up against it or my other GWR locos. It has a Hornby chassis rather than a H/D chassis but has been fitted with 20mm Romford wheels and runs really well. I will never get what its worth to me by selling it on Ebay, so my thoughts are to giving it a bit more detail and a respray.

 

As I said its had a nice spray painted job done on it but I am worried that I might get a reaction if I overspray it with Precision enamel paint, as car cellulose paint may have been used. I have had it for at least a year if not longer,so its dryed hard by now. I also need to remove the lining and lettering from the sides. I do not want to strip it back to parts and rebuild & paint it if I have to.

 

I was thinking about giving it a coat of primer once I have detailed it, would that seal it ?

 

Also is there an easy way of removing the lining and lettering without sanding it, I have no idea if they have been sealed with varnish.

 

Thanks in advance

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As I said its had a nice spray painted job done on it but I am worried that I might get a reaction if I overspray it with Precision enamel paint, as car cellulose paint may have been used.

If you spray enamel over cellulose you won't (or shouldn't!) get a reaction - cellulose over enamel would cause a reaction so you should be ok in this case.

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James and Mozzer thanks for that, I have just had a quick go at the lettering and lining. The lettering is now off as is the lining on 1 side. I used a scaple and whilst a bit slow I have not gouged the paint work. Once both sides are done then I can start the extra detailing.

 

As I said the loco has been well built and painted, its just the wrong shade. So it will be a shame to have to rebuild it. The only part which needs removing is the boiler hand rails.

 

Thanks again for the advice its much valued

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Reactions to thinners all depend on the amount of thinners, not just the type. Enamel thinned with white spirit is safe over cellulose paint, (car type).

  • But Precision Phoenix, for instance is not straight forward enamel, like old Humbrol was, but a synthetic coach enamel, which can be thinned with white spirit, high octane thinners or cellulose thinners.

So Phoenix paint can be over sprayed carefully with cellulose pant or varnish, with an airbrush, delivering the varnish or paint very slowly to the enamel already there.

  • You can also over spray Phoenix enamel with Rustin's gloss cellulose, and Testors Dullcote, again strictly with an airbrush, not cans.

Old enamel will also take cellulose if dry and hard, and applied as a misting coat with an airbrush.. plenty of thinners, and slowly, never wetting the surface,. Acrylic paint should also take Dullcote or Rustins gloss cellulose if done slowly.

 

  • All cellulose paint should take enamel paint or varnish over it, thinned with spirit or cellulose thinners, Revell paints are enamel with white spirit, and Phoenix again are coach enamel type varnish, which can be thinned with cellulose thinners if you want, or white spirit or the Phoenix special spraying thinners.

 

Phoenix market special thinners for the enamel varnish which are safe on both enamel and cellulose paint.

 

Please note that all over spraying should be done with an airbrush, cans deliver too much paint and thinners to over coat like this.... and brushing will not work.

 

So basically if the paint is old, then it can be sprayed with cellulose varnish or paint, but well thinned, and very slowly. Wet it too much and it may react.

 

Once a dry layer of cellulose paint or varnish is established over the enamel it will act as a barrier, but be careful, too wet and it may react.

Stephen

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