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robbostrains

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There arent any wires its all done through the chassis and metal strips. The contact points are top and bottom of the motor. You'll find brass contacts underneath by pushing the four white plastic spigots if you look at the bottom of the fuel tank.

 

This isnt essential but for better contact many replace the steel strip on the top too that connects the motor to the bogies. Solder wire from each bogies steel contacts directly to the motor.

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http://www.euram-online.co.uk/railways/canadian/f3a/f3alge02.jpg shows you the original configuration...your chassis is missing the bracket and bronze strip assembly. If you look in the front of your chassis you should see where that bracket used to be. These did indeed provide light, but it looked like a nuclear reactor in the cab.

 

As Ian notes, find a spot that clears the shell when the screw is installed - I typically would go under the drive coupling between the flywheel and truck. Drill and tap in for a brass screw and solder to that; take the other side from the straps protruding from the top of the trucks/bogies. While you're there, do replace that strap with wire...makes for a more reliable runner.

 

And a trick I used when I was still running DC at low speeds - I used 6 volt bulbs. Much brighter...but they'd blow if you went heavy on the voltage...

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Coming more up to date with Athearn, I note that their Genesis locos come fitted with microbulbs. Are these 12v and do they need to be changed for DCC running in case they get too hot? If not 12v bulbs but a lower voltage, are they fitted with resistors for DCC running?

 

Steve

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http://www.euram-online.co.uk/railways/canadian/f3a/f3alge02.jpg shows you the original configuration...your chassis is missing the bracket and bronze strip assembly. If you look in the front of your chassis you should see where that bracket used to be. These did indeed provide light, but it looked like a nuclear reactor in the cab.

 

As Ian notes, find a spot that clears the shell when the screw is installed - I typically would go under the drive coupling between the flywheel and truck. Drill and tap in for a brass screw and solder to that; take the other side from the straps protruding from the top of the trucks/bogies. While you're there, do replace that strap with wire...makes for a more reliable runner.

 

And a trick I used when I was still running DC at low speeds - I used 6 volt bulbs. Much brighter...but they'd blow if you went heavy on the voltage...

That picture is how my chassis looks.Must admit not got a clue as to what to do.If some kind person can put an X on the picture where the wires go I might just get it!!Thanks .

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Coming more up to date with Athearn, I note that their Genesis locos come fitted with microbulbs. Are these 12v and do they need to be changed for DCC running in case they get too hot? If not 12v bulbs but a lower voltage, are they fitted with resistors for DCC running?

 

Steve

 

 

They're 1.5v bulbs...everything they've done in the past 3-4 years should have a chip socket on the board, and the board will have the appropriate resistors or diodes to drop the voltage...

 

 

 

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They're 1.5v bulbs...everything they've done in the past 3-4 years should have a chip socket on the board, and the board will have the appropriate resistors or diodes to drop the voltage...

 

 

What he said. AFAIK, only early Genesis SD70's suffered from bulbs blowing if you DCC'd them, everything since I believe is fine.

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Here is an old GP7 that I've just added lights to. The lights are a cut down board from an N gauge loco that was DCC fitted. They are temporarily fitted to the chassis with Blue Tac whilst the body is repainted.

post-4945-0-34478000-1297686161_thumb.jpg

 

As can be seen the loco is being run in on a rolling road

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