RMweb Premium finelines Posted February 18, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 18, 2011 Push through or etched on? Which do you prefer. Roger Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 It rather depends on the situation. 1/2 etch are much simpler and you can also do bolts correctly as well as normal rivet heads. There are situations where the piece needs to be full etch with these pushed through though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
halfwit Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 Push through on structural (eg frames, bonnet sides) etched on overlays (which can be half etched) (eg bonnet doors). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kris Posted February 18, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 18, 2011 in 2mm etched on, for larger scales I'm quite happy to punch them through. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium finelines Posted February 19, 2011 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 19, 2011 The reason I asked is there are a few things I want for myself and I think the only way I will get them is to etch them. The problem is, I don't get on with other peoples kits. The chances are if I had spent the last making up kits rather than designing them I probably would. Whenever I designed an etched kit I insisted on using etched on, but Matthew has been working on some etched narrow-gauge and his have looked rather nice. He presses them out with my GW rivet press. I imagine that a bit of experimentation would show the ratio between dimple size and the resulting pimple. The question that goes along with it is solder on beading or etched in place? Both seem to have their own advantages. Roger Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poor Old Bruce Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 Sounds like 'Horses for Courses'. If you go for pressed rivets the builder really needs to use a proper rivet press with a dimpled anvil to form decent heads. Some I have seen where the rivets have been pressed against something like a lump of lead look 'orrible. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metropolitan Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 Push through or etched on? Which do you prefer. Roger Etched on rivets every time, Roger! No contest. Thickish brass/NS please, so the half etched parts are not too flimsy though. Definitely no overlays!! Some loco's (the finest!) started out flush riveted though so all etchings should be reversible. (The loco I've just finished was meant to have square head rivets which you were supposedly expected to somehow press out from behind! ) The reverse for beading: I prefer to add it rather than have it pre etched, Am looking forward to the production of a superb Comet Lord Nelson 4mm kit in brass and NS with a one piece white metal boiler and lovely turned and lost wax fittings!!! :D Ah!! Just the very thought of it makes me drool! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 To generalise - Push through rivets and etched beading. I often find the quality of etched on rivets very poor. I think this is because the control of the half-etching process is quite variable and the rivets seem to come out flat and poorly shaped. I dislike solder on beading, it often seems to be short, easily deformed and always results in lengthy clean up. Some of the worst culprits are those supplied with multiple tags to the fret - often placed along the edge - I'd rather use flattened wire. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium finelines Posted February 21, 2011 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 21, 2011 But how would I do the rivet detail on, say, a riveted Fowler tender with rivets at two levels? Roger Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 But how would I do the rivet detail on, say, a riveted Fowler tender with rivets at two levels? Roger Overlays on two different thicknesses one full thickness and the other on half etched recess. or push through on the full thickness and a half etched recess with an overlay having etched rivets? or even push through on both full thickness with one of them acting as an overlay in a half-etched recess. or simply multiple overlays - the last one having etched rivets. depends how different the levels are. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium finelines Posted February 24, 2011 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 24, 2011 Thank you for your replies. I am sad that most uk modellers never saw what I regard as my best ever loco kits because they were made for the Australian Market but they were never particularly rivity beasts. I have been watching with a degree of jelious admiration as my friend Arthur has been been doing what I would like to do producing his own favourite locos. I am luckier in that to portray trains round here I can buy a lot ready to run, but despite the astonishing diversity of what is being produced these days, there are a few that I don't think will ever be done. I said somewhere that I don't get on very well with other peoples kits so I would prefer to make my own even if they are scratch builders aids. Problem is these days I look at things through a plastic die cutter, I find the restrictions of 2 or 4 layers incredibly frustrating. I spent some time talking to Arthur and have come to the conclusion I will have to send a sheet with all my ideas to the etchers and see which one works. Roger Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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