Black Sheep Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 At the moment, I am in the process of building my N gauge layout which has about seven points on it, but to keep my wife happy budget wise, and get me something that runs a little quicker I'm trying to figure out if I can cut a slit for the point motor's rod to poke through, lay the track and then fit the point motor later. Has anyone done this? I'm thinking of using Peco underboard motors. I'm also thinking of fitting a rodding system for use until I fit the motors, however my layout is in places going to be heavily landscaped and so I'm not sure what the best way of doing rodding is - was pondering sticking a tree through the end of the rod to hide it and act as the method of changing the point! Any ideas? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwin_m Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 I think it would be easier using Seeps or the adapter that allows Peco motors to be fitted underneath the board instead of attaching to the point itself. Then you would just need to drill a hole (about 7mm diameter IIRC) in a position where it is underneath the tiebar hole whichever way the point is lying. The same would work for the slow-motion motors I think, should you decide to use these. If you have points close together then it is worth checking that they are far enough apart to install separate motors, and use this when deciding which side of the tiebar to drill the hole. You should think about whether and how you switch the frog polarity in both the manual and the motorised arrangement, as in my experience the points as supplied (where the blade contact powers the frog) can become unreliable. At the very least solder a wire underneath the frog and leave it dangling through a hole under the board so it can be connected up later. The Seep PM1 has a suitable switch built in and Peco can have a switch added to control frog polarity. Neither is a great bit of engineering but if set up properly the Seep one probably works better than the Peco. For a mechanical arrangement you may need to add a microswitch. For an operating rod, can't you just bring it right to the edge of the baseboard and work it from there? I'd have thought if you have to put your hand onto the layout to move a tree, you might as well just change the points by hand! I haven't done it myself but I think it would be fairly easy to engineer a stiff bit of wire with a right angle bend so as to go up through the tiebar hole, running through holes drilled in the board frames or some other fixing arrangement, to emerge from the side with another bend so as to make a hook for pushing and pulling. If the board layout prevents you getting a straight pull to the edge then various "wire in tube" systems are available - rather like how bicycle brakes are operated. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kris Posted February 22, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 22, 2011 I would use the hole that you are leaving for the point motor to run a rod down to the push rod. Join the two together and you should be away and running and when you come to fit the point motors you don't need to worry about disturbing scenery to remove the rods. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karhedron Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 You should think about whether and how you switch the frog polarity in both the manual and the motorised arrangement, as in my experience the points as supplied (where the blade contact powers the frog) can become unreliable. This is true to some extent but depends no the size of the layout. A modest layout with only 7 points would take only a few minutes to clean and ensure the point blades make good contact. A big exhibition layout with dozens of points is a more daunting prospect and it is here that the "belt and braces" approach of frog switching really pays dividends. I am not saying that frog switching is worthless on a small layout. Just that with only 7 points, you may find it easier to clean and thus address the root cause of the problem. Just my tuppence worth. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Sheep Posted February 22, 2011 Author Share Posted February 22, 2011 polarity shouldn't be a problem, most of the points are at joints between control sections (DC cab control) and so will have a power feed somewhere in them but could add another to be sure. most of the points will be fine using rod and tube, but four of them are two each side of a viaduct that drops away quickly towards the front of the layout. might just go with drilling the hole ready for peco motors to be mounted below the board later and switch them by hand for now. thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derekl Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 Frog switching - even with 7 points, I would be inclined to fit it. Once the blade contact starts giving trouble on Peco points, it is very difficult (and quite frustrating) to get it sufficiently clean to work reliably. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.