carlislecitadel Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 Hi, I am hoping somebody may know about some products for filling large holes that I have not come across. Basically I am in the middlie of modifying some Mainline LMS panelled coaches. One of the batch is mid-way through conversion to a post war BG, one of the ex-ambulance train stock. I have filled in the corridor windows from the back but now have to fill the gap to a level just below the beading. A filler such as Milliput is OK but getting a smooth level finish will be difficult without filing off much of the beading. I was wondering if there was some sort of liquid filler which I could pour in to the gap and which would find its own level. I could try plastic sprue melted by Liquid poly but controlling the flow of that is not easy plus it stinks. Ihad thought about PVA but it could result in a curve in the corners and I'm not sure it woulnd't shrink too much over time. Does anybody know of any sort of filler that may do the job? All the best, Stephen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chris p bacon Posted March 8, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 8, 2011 The best fillers by their nature are a bit "stiff", I find Milliput good for most things, have you not thought of sanding down and removing the beading to get a good overall finish then replacing the beading with some Evergreen, may be easier in the long run? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burkitt Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 Have you tried Squadron filler? It comes in tubes, either white or green coloured. Consistency is more spreadable than Milliput, the surface when dry tends to be a bit porous but sealing it with superglue sorts that out. Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZ Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 Have you tried Squadron filler? It comes in tubes, either white or green coloured. Consistency is more spreadable than Milliput, the surface when dry tends to be a bit porous but sealing it with superglue sorts that out. Paul I find it's not so good for large area as it tends to shrink as it dries. For filling a window I would use Milliput and finish with a wet flat blade, something like a Stanley knife blade. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pugsley Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 Try correction fluid, Tipp-Ex or similar. You'll need to build a few layers of it, but it dries hard quite quickly and can be sanded. It's also quite cheap and readily obtainable (free if you nick it from work ) HTH Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chris p bacon Posted March 9, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 9, 2011 Try correction fluid, Tipp-Ex or similar. You'll need to build a few layers of it, but it dries hard quite quickly and can be sanded. It's also quite cheap and readily obtainable (free if you nick it from work ) HTH Surely that's only if you've made a mistake. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . I'll get me coat Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 There is a product described in this months RM called Filla-Glu Powda that sounds as if it may do the trick. It sounds similar to what I have used, fine powder from one of the DIY fine surface fillers and bound together with a good cyano glue such as Powerbond 806, to fill big gaps in kit builds. I don't know why but I've always struggled to get Milliput to do anything other than fill hairline gaps - it just fails to bond to the metal. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Campaman Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 I have had success using a thick PVA and then running cheap (Poundland) liquid superglue into it which speeds up the drying without the PVA spreading too much. You may want to experiment with this method first though on some srcap to see if it will work for you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chris p bacon Posted March 9, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 9, 2011 There is a product described in this months RM called Filla-Glu Powda that sounds as if it may do the trick. It sounds similar to what I have used, fine powder from one of the DIY fine surface fillers and bound together with a good cyano glue such as Powerbond 806, to fill big gaps in kit builds. I don't know why but I've always struggled to get Milliput to do anything other than fill hairline gaps - it just fails to bond to the metal. Actually that got me thinking, went to a plastic modellers event about 10 years ago and the aircraft boys were using thin superglue/cyano then dropping either talc or baking soda onto it to make a sandable surface. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 I do it the other way around as it gives a thicker lump but the principle is the same. The trick is to use a wicking type cyano rather than one with great surface tension otherwise it will just either coat the surface forming a skin or it will be more like glue with a coating of filler which will just sand off the surface. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 If I need to do any filling I use Revell Plasto it sets rock hard and does not shrink. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chris p bacon Posted March 9, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 9, 2011 I do it the other way around as it gives a thicker lump but the principle is the same. The trick is to use a wicking type cyano rather than one with great surface tension otherwise it will just either coat the surface forming a skin or it will be more like glue with a coating of filler which will just sand off the surface. Yes you're right I'd got it the wrong way round, I think that there was one giving a demo who mixed some up like a paste but had to work very quickly. I was very impressed by the results but have no cause to try it! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlislecitadel Posted March 10, 2011 Author Share Posted March 10, 2011 A big thanks to all who replied. I will experiment with some of the superglue related suggestions and see what happens. I have enough spare sections from my cut and shut coaches to give each of them a try. I'd not heard of Revell Plasto so may look out for that one. The Squadron and Milliput products I have used for years but the problem is getting a smooth flat surface in a recessed area without damaging the surrounding raised detail. Removing the beading to sand and then reinstating it may be the best option but getting the beading right with all those curves could be a real headache, at least with my skills set. I'll post some pics soon in the kitbuilding section showing work in progress on the Period 1 stock. Cheers again, Stephen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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