Jump to content
 

N gauge gauges and code 40 track.


kenbec

Recommended Posts

Hello there,

I have track gauges obtained from the N Gauge Society when I thought I would use code 80 rail and also code 40 rail I have obtained as samples from the 2mm Society. I have decided I would much rather build using code 40.

It seems to me that the gauges are possibly too large in the grooves to use with this rail.

I am trying to make a decision whether I should make my standard track (not turnouts) to 2mm specs ie 9.42mm or N gauge specs ie 9mm.

I have decided to let the track building aids available make the decision for me.

So, can I use the N gauge gauges to build standard track to their specifications using code 40 rail or would this not be a good idea, in which case I get the 2mm Association gear and build to their specifications. My preference would be the first option for the sake of consistency.

Is there anyone out there who can help me with an answer?

 

Ken

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Given the tolerances in N gauge you should get away with the n gauge rollers, but if you are concerned it might be worth asking if someone can knock you out a couple of track gauges with narrower gaps.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

There is another debate that is currently going on re N and 2mm track and I see that you are aware of it as you noted you would raise this as a separate topic.

 

Why not look at Eldavo's excellent Waton, winner of the RMWeb 2010 challenge layout - Code 40 plain track and handbuilt turnouts allowing use of RTR stock - I think this approach will become more popular.

 

This is the summary topic here and there used to be a separate thread on the building of it...but I couldn't find it...clearly, I need more coffee :rolleyes:

 

HtH

 

Pete

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

I would estimate the code 80 to have a railhead of around 1mm where as the code 40 has a railhead of about 0.5mm by my reconing code 40 in the N gauge gauge(?) would allow 0.5mm error on each side. You could use shims to hold it but it would be fiddly. I suggest joining the 2mmfs Using there stuff. I know that Noel Lever is ordering so point crossing jigs to N gauge settings so you could be sorted.

Don

Link to post
Share on other sites

It may also be worth looking at US suppliers as well as asking Noel, several of them do code 40 rail and parts. Most of the bits are not actually going to be that useful for UK N because of the sleeper and trackwork differences but the code 40 gauges from people like Micro-Engineering ought to do the trick ?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello Kris, Pete, Don and Etched Pixels.

 

Thank you all for your replies.

 

According to my trusty digital vernier caliper code 80 rail has a railhead of .63mm and code 40 is .48mm. A feeler gauge indicates that the grooves in the roller gauges from the N Gauge Society are .75mm.

I am not sure how accurate these measurements are because the caliper certainly isn't top of the range and the feeler gauge is only a standard automotive one. Hardly precision tools but probably pretty close to correct.

I am also not sure if the possibility of error during track construction is within acceptable tolerances but I am reluctant to take the risk.

 

I don't seem to be able to track down a supplier of a range of N gauge tools produced to code 40 sizes. When I looked at the micro-engineering site they only had the three cornered gauges.

 

This leans me towards building to the 2mm Association track gauge for my standard track. This is particularly so because I am also a member of the 2mm Association and they can supply a full range of tools to help an outright beginner like myself.

This is reinforced by the fact that at least one modeller has gone along the same path, I refer to the layout produced by "Eldavo" referred to by bcnPete, incidently Pete the link to the building thread is there in the first paragraph of the topic you referred me to so I read it too. :-)

 

I think my next move will be to build a test straight track and a turnout making use of the N gauge gear I already have and see what the results are. The turnout is one of those I have designed using Templot.

Now I think of it I should perhaps have done this before creating this topic but I have been going around in circles because neither solution is exactly the one I would like. :-)

 

Once again thanks for your responses which have helped me along my somewhat hesitant way towards my layout.

 

Regards

 

Ken

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Ken

 

Sounds like a good decision to get building something - this will then help inform future decisions.

 

BTW, thanks for pointing out the layout thread link...espressos have been administered sufficiently today so I will take another look at it :D

 

Good luck and keep us abreast of progress with a blog/thread perhaps,

 

Pete

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

As Ken has noted Micro-Engineering do only supply three-point gauges. An alternative is the "Rollee Holder Track Gauges" see http://www.railwayeng.com/gauges.htm

These are made from coloured Lucite (aka perspex/acrylic) so possibly not suited to soldered track construction.

 

Not that I'm trying to turn Ken away from 2mm. Recommence recruitment/assimilation/joining the darkside (aka true path). :D

 

Michael

Link to post
Share on other sites

As Ken has noted Micro-Engineering do only supply three-point gauges. An alternative is the "Rollee Holder Track Gauges" see http://www.railwayeng.com/gauges.htm

These are made from coloured Lucite (aka perspex/acrylic) so possibly not suited to soldered track construction.

 

Not that I'm trying to turn Ken away from 2mm. Recommence recruitment/assimilation/joining the darkside (aka true path). :D

 

Michael

 

 

Hello Michael,

Yes I had forgotten about these, I saw them a while ago and decided they had a shortcoming.

They only appear to have two grooves and none for the check gauge so I sort of dismissed them from my mind.

I think I will be able to avoid any problems while soldering.

 

Anyway I have ordered a set to try rhem out.

Hopefully the CFO won't find out. :) She reckons I spend more time getting ready to do a job than actually doing it.

 

Thanks and may the force be with you,

 

Ken

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have found 3 point gauges are actually very useful more so when laying curved track

 

 

I have never seen them in use so I wouldn't know the best way to use them.

I can believe they would be useful but wouldn't know how.

All I can remember is them being advocated for gauge widening on curves and

also other viewpoints saying gauge widening on curves is not necessary, this

railway modelling can be a confusing business. :(

 

Regards,

 

Ken

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

if you use a 3 point guage with the top of the triangle at the outer edge of the curve a slight guage widening is automatic, they work fine on straight rail dont use the base of the triangle on the inside of a curve or you will have guage narrowing...

 

roller gauges are however essential in my experiance when building points

Link to post
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...