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Base board help


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Nothing wrong with 6mm ply for layout tops - my last 3 layouts all used it including my shunting puzzle which regularly gets dragged around shows and tolerates huge abuse.

 

The majority of my boards are 4'x2' and are made with a frame of 3"x1" softwood planed timber in a simple rectangle with no cross bracing at all since I use Tortoise point motors which have a large footprint & cross bracing would not have been equi-spaced (and a pain to work out as I do not really plan ahead with most of my builds). To be honest I don't suffer warping or other problems and as I all my stock is Kadee fitted I guarantee I would know in very short order if the boards became out of shape.

 

On your 5'x3' there is no harm in popping a brace in at the 2'6" mark then 2 diagonal braces in the created rectangles to give some torsional rigidity.

 

Good deals at B&Q last week on the timber, I picked up a 4-pack of 8'x3"x1" for £11 and that is a whole lot of timber for the money.

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6mm is fine for the surface but I would tend to go for 9mm for the framing. If you do want 6mm consider making the outer frame as a beam section with a 6mm skin, then some 10-15mm softwood spacers (every foot or so) followed by a second 6mm ply skin. This will give you extra rigidity. With 6mm board you would not want to go more the a foot without bracing. If you do purchase your wood from a DIY chain make sure that you have a good look at each piece as some of the wood is less than straight.

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If you do purchase your wood from a DIY chain make sure that you have a good look at each piece as some of the wood is less than straight.

 

That is really good advice, don't catch a cold just because you didn't examine what you were buying. Don't forget to seal 6 mm ply with a good varnish.

 

Mike

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cheers chaps. i think the sandwich frame construction is currently a no go. but everything else is being taken on. i plan to get the baseboard shape lay track plan i have(x-tackad) and work out where all framing can go.

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