Mark 37 Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 I'm looking for some help with running the wires. I have the speaker in position in the tanks, but the wire seems very thick compaired to the loco wiring. I can't see which is the best way to run the wire from the tanks into the chassis. I've done a search and found loads of items on "what speakers best", but none really giving ideas on what practice is used. Could someone help me out and give some pointers? Many thanks, Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevpeo Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 I fix a piece of slitted copper clad sleeper strip to the motor side. Then run two fine wires to the chip/PCB. Also means the chip is easily removed if wanted later without stripping down the chassis again! HTH, kev Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark 37 Posted March 15, 2011 Author Share Posted March 15, 2011 Thanks Kev, I may have to do something similar. I'm trying to avoid cutting and replacing the wire. A friend gave me the speaker as he moved on to bigger and better things. It came with about 8" of wire and each colour is about 2.5mm thick. I would love to know how he fitted all that in a Bachmann body. lol Best regards, Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark 37 Posted March 15, 2011 Author Share Posted March 15, 2011 I figured out a solution. I ran it up one of the body screw securing points with no adverse effect to securing the body. Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
loco Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 Fair question, i had similar concerns when i did my first one. Ive tried a couple of alternatives, but the one that works fine for me is to file a shallow channel on the side of the metal chassis. This allows the wires to be recessed, and the body fits fine. Cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark 37 Posted March 17, 2011 Author Share Posted March 17, 2011 Fair question, i had similar concerns when i did my first one. Ive tried a couple of alternatives, but the one that works fine for me is to file a shallow channel on the side of the metal chassis. This allows the wires to be recessed, and the body fits fine. Cheers Do you know that never occured too me. I thought of drilling two holes through the metal body, but figured this would take age's so I just opened up an existing hole. Well there you go, if anyone reads this and have the same problem/question they have three different solutions. It may help someone else. Best regards, Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevpeo Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 the one that works fine for me is to file a shallow channel on the side of the metal chassis. Cheers I do that on Heljan type 2's if the speaker is in the tanks, to get the wires behind the plastic sideframe! kev. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
meanach Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 Yeh if you use dcc supplies bass speakers in Bachmann 37a then drill out one of the body screws and they just fit in. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Mr.S.corn78 Posted March 17, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 17, 2011 Hi Guys, Just a quick heads up, if you are running the wires up the side of the chassis and the body can touch them be carefull that the body dosn't strip the insulation on the wire as this has happened to a couple of locos that i have had to fix and this has caused a few problems. On a couple of locos that i have fitted, i have drilled a couple of new holes down to the motor area and then run the wires in to the tank. cheers Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
loco Posted March 18, 2011 Share Posted March 18, 2011 Good point. I always insulate any wires trapped between body/chassis. Just did not mention it in my earlier responce. Incidentally the stuff i use is amazing, got it from the states some years back when fitting digitrax decoders into kato n gauge locos. Just cannot remember the name, ( must be old age) Its thin and orange colored, looks like sellotape, and is amazingly strong. Brilliant for locos. Cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
loco Posted March 18, 2011 Share Posted March 18, 2011 Just came to me KAPTON TAPE. You can actually buy it from; http://www.dccsupplies.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=2464 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
McGomez Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 As others have done, I drilled a couple of holes through to the nether regions.. It only takes 5 minutes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark 37 Posted March 24, 2011 Author Share Posted March 24, 2011 Just came to me KAPTON TAPE. You can actually buy it from; http://www.dccsuppli...roducts_id=2464 Thank you for the link, in your last post it sounded like you were telling a joke...."Its thin and orange colored, looks like sellotape, and is amazingly strong". I had no idea of the punch line. If I'm honest being a tight Scot, I use electricians tape. Is there more benefit to using the tape in the link? As others have done, I drilled a couple of holes through to the nether regions.. It only takes 5 minutes. My drill bit must be blunt as I made no impression on the housing in 10-15 minutes, that's why I went for openning an existing hole. Thanks for adding the picture though. As they say (who ever "they" are), "a picture tells a thousand words". Best regards, Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
loco Posted March 24, 2011 Share Posted March 24, 2011 Glad you liked my story. :D What happened was , like most people i would use electricians tape, for all electrical work. However when i started buying digitrax decoders for my kato N gauge locos, they came with a short strip of this tape. Which was provided to insulate the pickups, from the board. What i liked was it was thin/strong/and as time as shown does not loose its adhesive/ or move. So i tracked a supplier down and use in all my locos, its particularly good for securing loose wiring, to either the body or chassis. Incidentally i still use heat shrink, when joing two wires( providing i remember, or can find it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark 37 Posted September 13, 2011 Author Share Posted September 13, 2011 Rather than start a new thread and as it is loosely linked, I'm now fitting a Zimo sound decoder to a class 26, but my speaker is too big. Before I go and order another that is too big, can I ask. "What size speaker have you managed to fit in the Heljan 26"? Many thanks, Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliebanger Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 Mark 37, on 13 September 2011 - 16:55 , said: Rather than start a new thread and as it is loosely linked, I'm now fitting a Zimo sound decoder to a class 26, but my speaker is too big. Before I go and order another that is too big, can I ask. "What size speaker have you managed to fit in the Heljan 26"? Many thanks, Mark Mark, I managed to fit a single 28mm Square Baffle QSI HB speaker into the tanks of mine, facing downwards. I have the steam boiler fitted version, you would struggle if you have the compressed air tanks fitted instead. If you have the cl Cass 26 Manual Notching Zimo from Digitrains, it was developed using the above speaker set-up, so it will sound just as intended. Kind regards Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark 37 Posted September 17, 2011 Author Share Posted September 17, 2011 Hi Paul, Thanks for the information. After a lot of cutting, drilling, sanding and grinding I've managed to fit the standard 20x44x8mm bass enhanced speaker in the tanks, and it sounds rather good. I'll pop a video on the DCC sounds thread, once I figure out why the lights no longer work (they did for a short period after fitting). All the best for now, Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark 37 Posted October 3, 2011 Author Share Posted October 3, 2011 Hi all, I'm a bit perplexed, can anyone help? I've installed the MX645R decoder to the class 26. At first I had no lights (easy fix I turned the plug around and got them working. Whilst I was in another room my 5 year old played about with the function keys (PowerCab). Now I have no lights. I looked at the manual online. I have reset (set to default) CV's 125,126,127,132,159,160 and 62 to 0 I also reset CV's 63 to 51 and CV 64 to 5. I still have no lights and can't find a break in conections. To check I put a DCC plug in and ran it on DC. The result being working lights. Thanks for any help you can give. Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliebanger Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 Mark, What values do you have in CVs 34, 35, (the normal F0 directional lighting CVs) and 61, (Zimo special mapping CV)? Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark 37 Posted October 4, 2011 Author Share Posted October 4, 2011 Hi Paul, After more hours than I care to remember looking through the manual. I came across CV's 34 & 35 (last night after posting) and set them to 0 and hay presto! Lights again. Thanks, Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliebanger Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 Mark, Glad you're sorted. Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark 37 Posted October 10, 2011 Author Share Posted October 10, 2011 To busy looking for something complicated and missed the obvious. Dohh. Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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