dasatcopthorne Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 Hi Al. Now that I have my compressor and airbrush ready, I am raring to go on weathering some diesel loco underframes. What's your favourite mixture of paint colours the acheive a realistic weathered effect? All offers gratefully received. Cheers Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium mirreles31 Posted March 16, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 16, 2011 Hi Dave, I agree with Richard using straight colours such as 'underframe dirt' or 'brake dust' can give a too light finish, also if you observe the weathering of bogies etc they are very rarely uniform in colour-varying from light rusts & browns to oily blacks & dark greys. The thing to do is find a basic group of colours and keep varying the mix as you go along this is quicker and easier than it sounds. Personally I take a leaf from Tim Shackleton's book (or rather DVD) and tend to use a simple mix of matt black and leather, this can be varied to produce degrees of black or degrees of rusty browns. Gunmetal can be added to this in small amounts if wished. In the end you will develop an eye for the colours you want. I sometimes use other colours such as U/F dirt to give subtle differences in tone. Remember to build up the dirt gradually, don't try to get your aimed for effect in one go, you'll see what I mean when you get started. Oh and work from a photo if you can, you don't have to copy it but it will give a general guide to the effect you want. Happy spraying Phil. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelp Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 Humbrol Matt Black and Matt Leather for me too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waverley West Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 Hi Dave, Although I use an aibrush for just about everything else (bodywork, etc.), I always use Railmatch aerosols for underframes - a good mix of sleeper grime, frame dirt and weathered black, varied according to taste (these colours are also avaible in jars of course). I think the aerosols give a slightly coarser finish than an airbrush, which is more realistic for underframes I think. I then finish off with some suitable (similar coloured) weathering powders on top. HTH. Cheers, Dave Waverley West Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRealistic Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 Hi to all you experienced modellers! I'm about to take the 'weathering' plunge (wagons first, using brushes and enamels), and have a couple of questions relating to the above. 1. Does all the good advice apply to wagon underframes as well as diesels? 2. Would it be desirable to thin the paint a little before using it (particulary the base coat... which could be a 'mix') as isn't there a possibility that detail might be 'lost' when 'overpainting' to create the desired effect? Can't wait to get started... but don't want to get the 'fundamentals' wrong! Cheers to all Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 Alan, Get Martin Welch's book The Art of Weathering and read it cover to cover! The key thing is to have a go - but yes for weathering often thinner mixes of paint are required but the key to weathering is often what you remove rather than how much you put on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRealistic Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 Thanks James, very sensible advice. Will have to try harder to find a copy... that's affordable! Amazon price it at £14.95 but then explain it's out of stock.... while other 'retailers' on the site sell it for £60 plus!!!! Maybe the local library can order it for me. Anyway, just off to the SDR to take a few piccies of the visiting Dukedog! Best wishes Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew F Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 I prefer to start with the lighter colours and work up to the greasier parts so Railmatch frame dirt seems too chocolaty to me. Humbrol 29 matt brown or Railmatch frame dirt with some matt white and matt black to make it greyer for a base coat which will look something like James' 37 bogies near the nose on his signature. Like what Dave (Waverley W) says, if you airbrush it, it can leave no texture and the chassis can still look plasticky; the same if you brush Railmatch paint, neat, it can be a bit satin/glossy. It's possible to under thin a paint mix when airbrushing to create some texture but you will have to experiment and see what works for you; I'm still doing it and I'm not sure Maybe something to think about is the period modelled. I've studied a lot of books and think that steam era to the end, and diesel era to the 70's used different friction material in the brake shoes of loco's/stock, to mid/70's - 80's era onwards. I model 60's and use more reddy/brown bases and find more modern frames to be coated in darker/greyer brake dust or to be generally darker and oilier. I'm still wondering if it's down to old Kodak film speeds but I've seen the two differences on the same photographs.....blah..should get out more Cheers Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRealistic Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 Andy, that's a really helpful reply. Thanks for being so thorough, especially explaining the differences between steam era and diesel 'colourations'. I model early 60's and felt Railmatch's Frame Dirt (or a mix that includes it), doesn't look quite right. I've therefore been pondering the use of Humbrol 160 (as a base) straight from the tin. It's a nice reddy-brown, just a bit darker than most of the rust colours, and goes by the highly unlikely name of German Camouflage Red Brown! (Guess which kits I took a fancy to in the past!...and have since blown 'em to pieces with an air rifle!!!). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium petethemole Posted April 26, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 26, 2011 Alan, for Martyn Welch's book, try Kevin Robertson Books (no connection, but satisfied customer). He has it on his website. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waverley West Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 Hi Dave, Although I use an aibrush for just about everything else (bodywork, etc.), I always use Railmatch aerosols for underframes - a good mix of sleeper grime, frame dirt and weathered black, varied according to taste (these colours are also avaible in jars of course). I think the aerosols give a slightly coarser finish than an airbrush, which is more realistic for underframes I think. I then finish off with some suitable (similar coloured) weathering powders on top. HTH. Cheers, Dave Waverley West Hi again, Forgot to mention roof dirt as well - helps to tone it down a bit. Hi to all you experienced modellers! I'm about to take the 'weathering' plunge (wagons first, using brushes and enamels), and have a couple of questions relating to the above. 1. Does all the good advice apply to wagon underframes as well as diesels? 2. Would it be desirable to thin the paint a little before using it (particulary the base coat... which could be a 'mix') as isn't there a possibility that detail might be 'lost' when 'overpainting' to create the desired effect? Can't wait to get started... but don't want to get the 'fundamentals' wrong! Cheers to all I use my method for wagons as well, although perhaps be more sparing with the frame dirt and sleeper grime. I tend to use more roof dirt and weathered black on wagon underframes and to some extent coach underframes too. The texture of aerosols is key for me I think, rather than worrying about fine detail. Cheers, Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
APOLLO Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 I use Wickes mid-grey undercoat paint, thinned with turps, and a little matt black blackboard paint added. Apply to loco etc with a soft brush and immediately wipe off to suit the look you require (heavy / light), then add & work in weathering powders whilst wet. Add a small touch of dirty matt white near dome etc for the "treated water leak" look. Works quite well. Look at colour photos of dirty locos - they are more a dark grey than black. Keep your washes thin though. Look at the "colour" of this loco. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3117/2483150209_5c6aa8c26e.jpg Brit15 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRealistic Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 Hi Pete... Thanks so much for that link. I've done the sensible thing and ordered a copy! ... and as James suggested earlier, I'll read it cover to cover before making a start. Have to say I'm so glad I was advised to 'join' this site. There's always someone (usually more) ready to take time to offer help and guidance. Cheers to all! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted April 27, 2011 Author Share Posted April 27, 2011 Thanks for all your replies, Guys. I'm taking the plunge. Cheers Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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