craigwelsh Posted November 22, 2011 Author Share Posted November 22, 2011 Most GWR tenders have small coal plates or bulkheads behind the toolboxes, see drawings and photos in the back of Russell vol 2 (though few actually show this detail). You might also be able to make them out in the second photo on this blog entry about the Hornby 28XX. Nick Ah yes those toolboxes do but this is two objects down in the chute section and the sandbox one wraps round onto the front of the water tank too. I'll stick up a photo sometime of where these go and look like. Yes Mike it needs the rivet strips attaching, the wrapper is mainly tacked on at the moment. The flare was initially tried just with solder, this didn't really work as it tended to form U shapes between the fingers provided and after a little filing I'd broken the fingers off anyway! I then added two bits of spare NS strip from my wagon etches inside the curve one at the top and one nearer the sides angle. These were blended and filed with the solder to form something continuous. A lot of work and then you have to solder a handrail knob in just below it! As I said i've still got slight holes in there where I broke through again that will need another fill but with low melt to protect the rest. I've seen people panel beat or turn a bit to go in there for 0 gauge but its so small in 4mm. The tender at the NRM seems to have reinforcing behind the corners so I can justify the NS bulking up that area on the inside of the flare slightly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted November 23, 2011 Author Share Posted November 23, 2011 Bit of progress getting the first side extension on plus the solebars and those two boxes I mentioned sitting in the coal face. The hollow front on the one is covered by those screens at the front but the other has a hole in the back. No real indication where the side extensions should go so I had to guess a little. It needs more rivet strips attaching to the back yet and cleaning up a bit. Seemed to line up alright. Instructions didn't say which way they faced based on the rivet patterns or why there was a hole in the one the tool rack doesn't attach to! Note the dome i've positioned which covers the circle of rivets leading me to suspect its a bigger dome off something else? Rivet strip provided goes around the bottom of the sides according to the instructions. That isn't the case according to pictures I have like http://www.flickr.co...in/photostream/ http://www.flickr.co...inmoremanorltd/ plus some in Russell. There should be rivets on the footplate though which I can use the strip provided for although I don't have the curve for the rear corners. There are step supports in the kit "the big one fits behind the big step, little..." no idea how they fit though, no diagram of the step sub footplate! CraigLooking good, glad to see the soldering iron has come out of it's summer hibernation! Isn't there a row of rivet detail to go on the bottom of the tender side ? How did you set the flares in the corner of the tender - gotta Collet 4000 to do, so I'd be interested in any advice you have. Mike There hasn't really been a summer hibernation Mike its just unfortunately mainly been repeat tasks on wagons. There are only so many times you cna show how to fold up a set of brake gear! Based on this one I hope you have the Finney kit! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craigw Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 Craig, I just looked at a few of the Mitchell 3500 Gallon tenders that I have and none of them have hollow backed toolboxes at all. There are some variations in the kits - a few have brass castings for tool boxes etc but all are solid. Similarly, the dome on the tender rear fits fine on the overlay with the rivets being visible around the edge. If you purchased this second hand I cant help but think that someone may have done a bit of casting exchanging prior to sale. Regards, Craig W Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 I see what you mean about the boxes (I believe they are the sandboxes), most odd, it does look like you are intended to bury them in the coal. Presumably the slots in the top are for the small coal plates behind the toolboxes? Nick ps. Yes, the dome does look a little too big. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted November 23, 2011 Author Share Posted November 23, 2011 Craig, I just looked at a few of the Mitchell 3500 Gallon tenders that I have and none of them have hollow backed toolboxes at all. There are some variations in the kits - a few have brass castings for tool boxes etc but all are solid. Similarly, the dome on the tender rear fits fine on the overlay with the rivets being visible around the edge. If you purchased this second hand I cant help but think that someone may have done a bit of casting exchanging prior to sale. Regards, Craig W Yup it does look like someone swapped the casting, not sure what from though! I've pinched one out of a 4000g kit for now. Finney 4000g tender doesn't seem to feature a rivet circle at all.. I've had 6 domes lined up on the desk from Finney, Mitchell and Mallard kits and they are all slightly different The 'toolbox' according to the instructions was the etched fold up thing in the coal space not up on top though I think it must be one of the sandboxes really. Bit of a cockup on those nice corners today when it had come out of the ultrasonic cleaning. I have quite a large hole now! Think i'll have to let in some NS strip and use some low melt to avoid buggering up the existing bit. I haven't found a prototype shot to confirm but the way Hornby have done their new 4000g tender suggests the flare is less of an issue there as you cant see the inside of it just the outside. You can then get a lot more solder behind it. The issue on this one is you can see both sides so it needs to be thin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike G Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 Craig Just what exactly did you use to clean it? How hot was the water? Have you got hold of any of that stuff Ozzyo recommended..I haven't been able to find any on Ebay. Think I'd have said a few choice words after that came out of the UB. But, as you say not beyond repair. Keep going, is the engine chassis running yet? Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted November 25, 2011 Author Share Posted November 25, 2011 CraigJust what exactly did you use to clean it? How hot was the water? Have you got hold of any of that stuff Ozzyo recommended..I haven't been able to find any on Ebay. Think I'd have said a few choice words after that came out of the UB. But, as you say not beyond repair. Keep going, is the engine chassis running yet? Mike 480seconds, water was cold when it went in, had some of that Sea Clean stuff in there. I haven't tried following up on Ozzo's product yet. It was rather fragile and thin really so i'd prefer it happen earlier. Its a learning curve anyway and I expected some challenges with it. Should possibly have done the 4000g first because as I said its not so much on view as this. I've fixed it now anyway using the Rice method of a curved insert behind that isn't quite as noticable as I thought it'd be. There is a slight dip in towards the corner that might need filling out a little later but as least there is a decent bit of solid metal behind there now. I've also pinched one of the domes that was smaller for this loco. The other large one can go on the Finney 4000g tender which doesn't have the rivets on it so the large dome covers the correct area and maybe shows a later welded replacement? The chassis was running on the rods Mike but i've not decided how to remove the compensation beams and fit springy ones down the sides yet instead. It seemed a shame to have proper inside motion and a beam down the middle that shouldn't be there! Im going to try and use the prototypes compensation points for underslung springy wire. I moved on to the tender as I was going to motorise that. Its looking like it could be tricky though getting the motor in without the drive train having massive shafting under the tender and cab. I also looked in detail as a built up example running on Clarendon in Cardiff and the owner had successfully got a 16 series motor and High Level gearbox in the firebox so it is possible to get decent loco drive. The tender will also get work on it to replace the inside bearing compensation system if I can. Im unsure whether to put tender weight on the loco or leave it separate. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted November 25, 2011 Author Share Posted November 25, 2011 In other news.. I've been holding up motorising scenic pointwork on the club layout Slattocks Junction a bit trying to put proper stretcher bars in as well as the operating mechanism. I've tried out a flexible stretcher bar in very thin copperclad with Colin Craig etches at the ends to form the correct method of bonding to the switch blades. They are a bit tricky with bullhead being designed for FB rail. Works nicely at the moment even though there is only one bar and no under board operating tubes fitted. Its lacking a track circuit insulating piece at the moment which needs making and soldering on. Its isolated on one side in the middle and two places on the other. Soldering pieces of rail across the ends of this point while I carry it about didn't help my electrical testing though! Once these were removed it was confirmed the piece is still insulated between rails fine. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Portchullin Tatty Posted November 25, 2011 Share Posted November 25, 2011 Bit of a cockup on those nice corners today when it had come out of the ultrasonic cleaning. I have quite a large hole now! Think i'll have to let in some NS strip and use some low melt to avoid buggering up the existing bit. Flares are also a bit of a feature of the Highland's locos. I make the flare as one of the first things on the tender and use the highest melt solder I can find - something like 243 - and a really big iron. It does not matter that the solder blobs an awful lot, because it gets filed back afterwards. As such a high melt solder is used, I do not find that i subsequently melt it with later work - even when it comes to soldering the bead on top of the flare - as long as I use 143 or similar and do not leave the iron lingering for a long time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike G Posted November 25, 2011 Share Posted November 25, 2011 Nice work. Look forward to seeing some photos of the chassis and just how you're going to spring the beast. I've built a 28xx Comet chassis using standard CSB for Newport_Rod, he's going to put the motor in the tender as well. Don't hold your breath on this one Rod takes his time, no really takes his time! I'll post some photo's of the solution we came up with for switch blades, we managed to joint them so no stress on the blades or soldered joint. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Lewis Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 In other news.. I've been holding up motorising scenic pointwork on the club layout Slattocks Junction a bit trying to put proper stretcher bars in as well as the operating mechanism. I've tried out a flexible stretcher bar in very thin copperclad with Colin Craig etches at the ends to form the correct method of bonding to the switch blades. They are a bit tricky with bullhead being designed for FB rail. Works nicely at the moment even though there is only one bar and no under board operating tubes fitted. Its lacking a track circuit insulating piece at the moment which needs making and soldering on. Its isolated on one side in the middle and two places on the other. Soldering pieces of rail across the ends of this point while I carry it about didn't help my electrical testing though! Once these were removed it was confirmed the piece is still insulated between rails fine. Hi Craig I assume those are the Palatine models soleplates? and that you have simply put a chair on top of them? Does this cause any problems, as you now presumably have a very slight 'hump' in the track, or in practice is it so small that you (or your stock) doesn't notice it? Cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 Hi Craig I assume those are the Palatine models soleplates? and that you have simply put a chair on top of them? Does this cause any problems, as you now presumably have a very slight 'hump' in the track, or in practice is it so small that you (or your stock) doesn't notice it? Cheers Plane down the balsa very slightly under that particular sleeper to account for the slight height difference. Its one of the benefits for Balsa I see over cork. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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