Mike G Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 Mike, It looks like the Griffithstown Railway Museum might not be around much longer according to this BBC news item. Real shame. It's hard to believe now that the area was covered in railway until the mid-sixties.. Yes, I'd already been alerted to this by Kempenfelt. It's been a stones throw away from my front door for years and every time I've gone there for a browse the damn thing has always been closed...very, very frustrating. Especially as there's a lot of stuff that we could make use of in developing Little Mill Junction, which by the way has just had it's golden spike moment, track has been laid and we're off and running!!!! Thanks for the heads up though.. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted February 13, 2011 Author Share Posted February 13, 2011 I was starting fitment of hinged AJs to this batch of wagons so I thought i'd quickly illustrate how I do it. Stage 1: Use the jig with a 0.5mm hole through the middle to put the nuts in the correct place. Pilot the holes with a 1.3mm bit. Stage 2: After the 1.3mm has gone through the base of the wagon (which is annoying, i'll build it in to future chassis!) I open it out to 2.3mm so that a 10BA screw will stick out of the hole. Stage 3: Effectively countersink the lead with a 3.45mm bit to allow the 10BA nut to be sunk into place for soldering to the lead. Stage 4: Clean up after soldering and the hinge plate can then be sorted out along with putting a height stop on which is needed with hinged plates. I really need to refine the positioning and design of the latter! Something I discovered when putting a wagon in the ultrasonic bath with the wheels left in is that Kean Maygib blackening is a bit excessive and manages to blacken the rest of the chassis! With the light in position I thought i'd try out the new camera on this earlier paint job not really seen in MRJ. Its come out slightly bleached. When I get around to painting the other side i'll try something slightly different and maybe come back to this side then. This wagon was one from a Don Rowlands print. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pixie Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 Good to see no expense was spared on the lettering there chap. Top stuff. Pix Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Portchullin Tatty Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 Craig, Do you not get problems with electrical shorting if you do not isolate the AJ mounts electrically? I certainly have; either through unavoidable electrical connections from the turned metal wheels or unintentional ones where something of the underframe touches a wheel. If you make the whole train electrically connected via the AJ's, the chances of getting one of the oppisite polarity is increased considerably. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted February 13, 2011 Author Share Posted February 13, 2011 Craig, Do you not get problems with electrical shorting if you do not isolate the AJ mounts electrically? I certainly have; either through unavoidable electrical connections from the turned metal wheels or unintentional ones where something of the underframe touches a wheel. If you make the whole train electrically connected via the AJ's, the chances of getting one of the oppisite polarity is increased considerably. I guess i've not done enough running yet to get it. I can always put slice of 5 thou plastic over the lead and use a nylon washer. I test across the wheels with a bulb on the track but not if one polarity has touched the chassis, will have to think about it. Work for tonight has been the redesign of the springing tabs and method of soldering on the strengthening plates for the axleboxes on my LMS underframe. The change to the springing is to do with future open underframes for tanks where there is no floor to fold down from and also they need to be less visible. The strengthening plates need hinging for soldering as aligning them by hand was a nightmare! (note the new and old spring tabs are shown in the first picture to confuse you, new ones on the solebar area, old on the floor!) I'll be glad to finally finish this one properly as it opens the way for lots of steel solebar stuff . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iak Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Very tasty Craig B) Your attention to detail and your forethought of use is wonderful....... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony W Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Craig Mark makes a valid point about electrical shorting. We've never had the problem on Slattocks but then again virtually all the goods stock has been constructed using a plastic floor. Certainly one to keep an eye on. I still don't see how you are going to set the coupling in the wagon without the buffers in place, and for that you need the buffer ferrules....! Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Portchullin Tatty Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Mark makes a valid point about electrical shorting. We've never had the problem on Slattocks but then again virtually all the goods stock has been constructed using a plastic floor. Certainly one to keep an eye on. I first learnt it on Simon de Souza's Corrieshalloch and since on my own layout several times - I always mount mine on a bit of double sided copper clad to avoid this. You may find it less of an issue if the layout stock remains pretty much where it is all the time, but if rakes do get moved about the chances of one being turned is too high (I think). You are using the turned Kean Maygib wheels? Are they like the Branchlines ones, insulated on one side only? If so, just turning one will lead to the short. At least on the buffer heads, you normally have a bit of paint to act as an insulant. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted February 15, 2011 Author Share Posted February 15, 2011 No Kean Maygib are double insulated, they are mostly used as occupation wheelsets while building as well as Exactoscale are easier to damage and more expensive. Maybe i'll etch the next plates with a double slot around the screw to allow me to solder some single sided copperclad on the back and then isolate the screw from the coupling. The height stop also needs to be plastic not metal. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted April 25, 2011 Author Share Posted April 25, 2011 Something old brought out of the box for a bit further work. My Finney 28xx now has its footplate mostly done. Time consuming mainly due to the way the etch is laid out which all parts joined together with tags and many parts within the footplate and footplate overlay. The overlays for the curved valance were also hard work as tags were put on the concave surface . Forming the curve in the dropped footplate over the frame extensions was certainly fun! Much more work to complete the footplate and the chassis as well including its overlays. The cylinders need a very thin file using to sort out an alignment issue to fit the slidebars. The ends fitted to the main etch of these using a central hole but the slots for the slidebars in both parts aren't aligned. The quality of brass on this kit is a bit crap too and its needed a lot of cleaning up. It was a 2nd hand kit though so certainly isn't 'new' production. If it was designed today it would probably utilise NS for the chassis too which would be stronger than the brass in this thin material. At some stage i'll work out replacing the compensation with underslung CSB which will be less noticeable between the working motion. Drive is to be via the new High Level tenderiser driving through a shaft under the dragbox (i hope!). 13 pieces alone currently make up the cylinders on this and they are far from complete. The pony truck needs 16 'bolts' representing from bits of 0.45mm wire too.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted May 2, 2011 Author Share Posted May 2, 2011 The joys of a bank holiday and high winds, more modelling time! The loco now has its smokebox and boiler done. I didn't have a rolling machine so that was a little tricky.. The firebox is supposed to be done by now following the instructions but I didn't have any threaded bolts/rod over 35mm long to setup the two former to put the wrapper around. I keep putting off finishing the splashers too as they are a right faff to fit! Its a bit disappointing that the boiler support brackets actually attach to the boiler cladding and not to the boiler itself through holes cut in these as per the prototype. I was going to do a new full thickness boiler originally but it would have needed a new smokebox and firebox too along with new support brackets. It would basically start approaching a new kit and i'd prefer to get this done now and think of improvements to put on one of the tank versions later. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 ....The quality of brass on this kit is a bit crap too .... Hmmm.....a Finney kit described as being "a bit crap". That's gotta be a first! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Brinkly Posted May 2, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 2, 2011 So what do you reckon the haulage capacity of this little beauty will be when she's finished then Craig? Do you think she could handle an 8 meter long train a-la-Pendon! Regards, Nick. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 I built one of these 17 years ago and it came out reasonably well at the time. However, the main problem with mine was a total lack of adhesion, mainly due to the Portescap motor taking up so much space in the boiler and firebox. The loco was stripped and fitted with a Branchlines gearbox and a smaller motor, allowing me to get loads more weight where it was needed. This solved the haulage problem. I also decided to give a complete repaint, not being happy with my original finish and consequently the body and tender were resprayed. The only thing left is to modify the pickups and respray the chassis. That has been the case for the last 15 years! Maybe I will get round to it soon, as there was nothing radically wrong with the original build. Regards Mark Humphrys The joys of a bank holiday and high winds, more modelling time! The loco now has its smokebox and boiler done. I didn't have a rolling machine so that was a little tricky.. The firebox is supposed to be done by now following the instructions but I didn't have any threaded bolts/rod over 35mm long to setup the two former to put the wrapper around. I keep putting off finishing the splashers too as they are a right faff to fit! Its a bit disappointing that the boiler support brackets actually attach to the boiler cladding and not to the boiler itself through holes cut in these as per the prototype. I was going to do a new full thickness boiler originally but it would have needed a new smokebox and firebox too along with new support brackets. It would basically start approaching a new kit and i'd prefer to get this done now and think of improvements to put on one of the tank versions later. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted May 2, 2011 Author Share Posted May 2, 2011 Hmmm.....a Finney kit described as being "a bit crap". That's gotta be a first! "The quality of brass" is what i described as crap in your quote, the overall kit is one of the best out there though you could get more detail into an etched kit if designing now. The brass needed a higher strengh phosphoric acid than I normally use and a lot of cleaning up, it also then sees to tarnish again pretty quickly. As discussed with Greg Shaw/John Brighton and others at Scalefour North, drive will be via a High Level tenderiser arrangement so there is no motor in the loco and the boiler will be filled solid with lead. This should hopefully avoid the thing getting dented too as its very thin! I can't really work out the drive arrangement until i've built the tender as I need to see how low the shaft will end up to pass underneath the cab footplate. I think it'll need a third shaft floating between the tender and loco too due to the overhang behind the rear axle on the loco. I think it'll be finished as 2807 and the details of the build are certainly being built to represent that. Its got the curved footplate for a start.. edit: This prototype shot taken at York on Saturday shows where the kit differs from the prototype in not having the boiler supports go through the cladding. Its more pronounced on dirty examples too. A full etched boiler would have allowed this to be 1/2 etched with the bands separate and also a bit thinner, some of the bands are also in a different place due to these cutouts. I forgot I had a dodgy build Finney tender in the drawer (£3 S4um bring and buy bargain for the Ultrascale wheels!) so i've posed it behind the engine. The state of the sides and running plate on it show how not to build a kit! The main boiler support bracket is now soldered in place. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 The joys of a bank holiday and high winds, more modelling time! The loco now has its smokebox and boiler done. I didn't have a rolling machine so that was a little tricky.. The firebox is supposed to be done by now following the instructions but I didn't have any threaded bolts/rod over 35mm long to setup the two former to put the wrapper around. I keep putting off finishing the splashers too as they are a right faff to fit! Its a bit disappointing that the boiler support brackets actually attach to the boiler cladding and not to the boiler itself through holes cut in these as per the prototype. I was going to do a new full thickness boiler originally but it would have needed a new smokebox and firebox too along with new support brackets. It would basically start approaching a new kit and i'd prefer to get this done now and think of improvements to put on one of the tank versions later. I hope your going to sort out that smokebox door . Looks like it will be a nice build. For weight I use lead shot, if you have a gunsmith near you you can get it for refilling shotgun cartridges (a lot cheaper the some of the places selling liquid lead). For fixing it in place I use a type of epoxy resin that is used for casting to hold it all in place as it works out cheaper. Don't use white wood glue (P.V.A.). OzzyO Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 For weight I use lead shot, if you have a gunsmith near you you can get it for refilling shotgun cartridges (a lot cheaper the some of the places selling liquid lead). The builder I know thought I was taking the p*ss when I told him how much model shops charge for liqud lead and small sheets of lead! So ask a tame builder if he can let you have off cuts of lead flashing - they're scrap to him but just a few off cuts last for ages and the thinner ones are very easy to roll and cut. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted May 3, 2011 Author Share Posted May 3, 2011 I've got a kg of liquid lead but i've got no intention of using it as is as the glue takes up as much space as the lead. I'll create a former and melt a load into it sometime (taking into account the safety elements). Normally i've used bandsaw cut sheet lead as it was consistently a couple of mm wide and ideal to fit under wagons in two layers. Sadly there wasn't any available at Scalefour North this weekend so i'll have to work out how to recreate that accuracy. The smokebox door is a long was off being fitted correctly, the smokebox itself needs a proper fettle and the door needs a brass hinge bar fitting onto it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pugsley Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 Normally i've used bandsaw cut sheet lead as it was consistently a couple of mm wide and ideal to fit under wagons in two layers. Sadly there wasn't any available at Scalefour North this weekend so i'll have to work out how to recreate that accuracy. With a bandsaw? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Sidecar Racer Posted May 3, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 3, 2011 With a bandsaw? :rofl_mini: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 Use a Scrawker myself B). ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted May 3, 2011 Author Share Posted May 3, 2011 Use a Scrawker myself B). ATB, Martyn. This was the height of the material, you'd be using a scrawker on something about 10cm thick.. As haven't dug up a bandsaw anywhere in the house I guess i'll have to find some sheet of the thickness I was using premade. I don't fancy trying to cast it or use a hammer. Burnt fingers this evening finishing the splashers off and trying to find some threaded rod long enough for the firebox.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted May 4, 2011 Author Share Posted May 4, 2011 Got bored of the splashers and although I didn't have any long bolts to put through it the firebox went together ok using plate glass to check the two formers were level as the wrapper was applied. It must have been slightly off to one side of centre though as there is a little extra material on one side that needs filing off to get it to sit flat on the footplate. I'll work out the filing once I do finish those dreaded splashers! Its going to be a right pain forming the curve to the front of the firebox as unlike a Malcom Mitchell kit you don't get that bit preformed as a whitemetal casting.. To align the firebox and boiler the firebox has two 0.45mm prongs soldered into alignment holes that slot into the boiler. The boiler and smokebox are attached together with a 10BA screw into a nut soldered onto the boiler, you were supposed to have tapped the former 10BA but the hole was already a loose fitas I went for soldering the nut. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike G Posted May 4, 2011 Share Posted May 4, 2011 Looking the part. I have the same problem on the County I'll have to form the corners with a file for the firebox. Have you filled the corners of the f/box with any thing, just in case you file thru? king regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted May 4, 2011 Author Share Posted May 4, 2011 Looking the part. I have the same problem on the County I'll have to form the corners with a file for the firebox. Have you filled the corners of the f/box with any thing, just in case you file thru? king regards Mike The front former on the firebox is two layers thick making it about 0.9mm, There are also large fillets of 188deg solder inside the radii of the join now that i've tested the fit of the part. There should be enough material there to form the radii with or i'd have to solder some brass offcut inside later on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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