MartynS Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 Hi Tony, Only a quick question are those hornguides cast in one piece? Cheers, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted December 5, 2014 Author Share Posted December 5, 2014 Yes they are Martyn, there is also a keeper casting that will fit across the legs of the hornblock to retain the bearing. That was not need in my case. Regards Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 Sorry, are those hornblocks Slaters, then? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted December 5, 2014 Author Share Posted December 5, 2014 Yes Jeff, Slaters Ref:7960B Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted December 22, 2014 Author Share Posted December 22, 2014 Further progress on the 9F frames, modified Ragstone brakes, beefed up stretchers for the motion brackets. Some of the design is a little dated and weak here and there, maybe my expectations are too high. However DJH as a company have always been very helpful and I've found the customer service excellent. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverstreak Posted December 22, 2014 Share Posted December 22, 2014 That's quite a production line you have going there Tony. I hope with the modified brakes fitted you have had a chance to test fit the wheels to identify any possible ensuing shorts Bad enough with six wheelers but ten hmmmm Regards Bob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim.snowdon Posted December 22, 2014 Share Posted December 22, 2014 Tony, I admire your persistence - ten of anything is trial enough, thirty must feel a bit like purgatory sometimes. Happy Christmas, Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted December 22, 2014 Share Posted December 22, 2014 I agree......I hope he eventually catches up with the guy who FORCED him to do three at once.......oh....wait....... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted December 23, 2014 Author Share Posted December 23, 2014 Thanks Bob - Jim - Jeff A wheel fit is next after putting on the slidebar brackets, and a minimum radius test. Thirty of things can seem a bit slow at times, but I know I am saving a third of my time doing 3 locos at once, I only have to solve a problem once for all 3. I must have bags of patience... sometimes. Have a great Christmas all, I shall carry on building if I can... Regards Tony 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted January 4, 2015 Author Share Posted January 4, 2015 Not much time for modelling, but Ivatts gather on Heyside.. 15 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted January 4, 2015 Author Share Posted January 4, 2015 And another, including Clive's 43152 13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 What's a gathering of Ivatts called? An Ive? A Vat? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 What's a gathering of Ivatts called? An Ive? A Vat? A Grubbiness perhaps? Portrayed to perfection by the superb weathering. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverstreak Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 A great advert for the Ivatt and the excellent job MOK have done in designing and producing such a truly accurate kit. Not forgetting your talents Tony in completing a couple to perfection Now where is those 9Fs Regards Bob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted January 5, 2015 Author Share Posted January 5, 2015 Thanks guys - I would say that the MOK Ivatt is the best kit I have ever seen/built, and a quality finish is a result of the great design work and standard of components. It's interesting that Clive and I have similar weathering techniques, so from a distance I can't tell them apart... The 9Fs - work has slowed, I have reached a stage in my life ( as have many of my contempories ) where elderly relatives have become a responsibility. So that is eating up a significant amount of time. Now that the Xmas shenanigans are over I can get some more concentrated time on the project. Regards Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverstreak Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 Tony Despite the responsibilities enjoy you aging relatives while you can. Here its been a while since we lost both our respective parents, Looking back it was pretty hectic at times, especially throughout the festive period but you know the age old saying, not knowing what you have lost until its gone. Modelling will fit in somehow Best regards Bob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 What's a gathering of Ivatts called? An Ive? A Vat? A sty. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted January 7, 2015 Author Share Posted January 7, 2015 Thanks for the thoughts Bob - we've now dropped into a routine of sorts and I'm getting stuck in with these 9Fs. I couldn't face using the white metal slidebar bracket, so replaced the entire assembly with Ragstone parts, crosshead and all. They are far better than that in the kit. It's taken a little time to fettle and work out how to attach them to the chassis. I made some spacers from 1mm thick brass and with a stroke of genius for once worked out that I could use the etched slot in the chassis to pass a 12BA screw through to a hole tapped in the plate and casting. The position can then be set as required without requiring 6 hands to solder the thing into place. Just a couple of grab shots to show progress, 4 slidebars ready and one chassis set up. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 They do look the part don't they? The clearances must be less than fag paper. Are they nickel silver or brass? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 Strange - I thought I replied to this yesterday.. Yes - slidebars and crossheads are nickel silver. The backs of the crossheads are filed as much as possible and the thinnest washer possible is between the coupling rod and wheel on the leading axle. Regards Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Hello Tony, how did you get on with the balance weights on the Slater's wheels. When I looked at my wheels the balance weights sat at any angle but flat to the wheel face. I have been thinking about mounting the wheels on the round table on the mill and milling the faces flat under where the weights fit. Some look to have the boss face turned down to the face of the spokes like in this photo, But on others the spokes taper to the wheel centre as in this photo, OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 " I have been thinking about mounting the wheels on the round table on the mill and milling the faces flat under where the weights fit. Some look to have the boss face turned down to the face of the spokes ..." That's what I do with Slater's wheels; I have often milled down spokes to take balance weights and turned down bosses, or even added bits to bosses and remachined them to the required profile, to achieve a better looking job. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim.snowdon Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 It's a technique that full size designers sometimes escorted to in order to accommodate large diameter cylinders without exceeding the loading gauge as it allows the rods to be brought in as close as possible to the wheels. It is quite obvious on some of the Stanier 4-6-0s, where it must have been done in order to allow use of an existing wheel pattern. Just watch that when you do it, you will need to deepen the countersink in the face of the Slaters wheels and countersink the hole in the axle end as well, before you start on the turning. Otherwise what you end up doing is facing the front of the screw, which gives it a really good appearance, but makes the socket so shallow as to be next to unusable. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 I confess that I carved away the taper on the spokes with a miniature chisel so that the balance weight lies flat on the wheel. The inner edge of the balance weight is then not proud of the spokes, but it seemed the best compromise. A little crude, but it works... Regards Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 (edited) Hello Tony, how did you get on with the balance weights on the Slater's wheels. When I looked at my wheels the balance weights sat at any angle but flat to the wheel face. I have been thinking about mounting the wheels on the round table on the mill and milling the faces flat under where the weights fit. Some look to have the boss face turned down to the face of the spokes like in this photo, Copy of IMG_3867.JPG But on others the spokes taper to the wheel centre as in this photo, centre wheel 1.jpg The centre drivers (which bore the coupling rod, connecting rod, and return crank) seem to have been more heavily machined than the other drivers. Same thing on the Std. 7MT and 8P. The driver pattern used for the Std.5 was different again! Edited January 9, 2015 by Horsetan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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