Michael Delamar Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 I quite fancy doing this conversion Ive read about people doing it, but to be honest Ive never really sat down and studied all the differences of the class. I have a Bachmann class 25 thats converted to EM and runs a dream. however Ive never really liked the later style. its too late for the layout period and Im not a fan of the livery and bodystyle. prefering the 24 or the 24 with headcode box. Ive had a Hornby loco for years,only problem with it I started to chop one of the headcode boxes of it when I was about 14 but it got left. not a problem I can chop a box off the Bachmann one what was stopping me is I didnt really have a decent shot or inspirational shot of a prototype lets say to make me want to get on with it recentley I came across this shot and I thought Id like to do this loco. in this condition http://www.railwayhe...hp?image=154860 now I know the tanks are different, I dont mind doing any chopping and plasticard work however involved that is but id like to try and use what I have, a bit of a cheap project. dont mind getting etched bits etc. id like the experts opinions on if this loco can be done with what I have. as I say I know very little on the technical differences on these. I notice it has a valance behind the bufferbeam and a cut out on the side of the roof. I realise a lot has been written about this conversion so if anyone could point me to reference thatd be much appreciated many thanks Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Neil Posted May 19, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 19, 2011 The photo is a rather tasty find and as to a feasible conversion the quick reply is yes you can do it with what you've got though transplanting the Bachmann headcode box may be a pain. More pics from different angles are available on the Derby Sulzer website. There will be body mods to the doors, cab side windows (theoretically the front too though I skipped this bit) roof, exhaust, handrails and side valance. The chassis too will need tweaking to fit. Though it sounds a lot each task isn't particularly demanding and I found it hugely satisfying to see my model of the visually similar headcode box fitted 24 take shape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted May 19, 2011 Author Share Posted May 19, 2011 thats great Neil thanks I meant to say I still have the Hornby chassis, is it worth using that for a hack about of the tanks, or best to stratchbuild? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 I think you can buy replacement roof mouldings from Brassmasters, so you won't have to vandalise the Bachmann body at all...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted May 19, 2011 Author Share Posted May 19, 2011 thats interesting Horsetan thanks I like the look of the fueltanks too so much for a cheap job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted May 19, 2011 Author Share Posted May 19, 2011 think it may be worth getting the craftsman conversion kit dk9 for this? 25 to 24. although this is a 25/0. and I think id only need the brass doors from it? plan all those years ago to have a go at making a 24 but never got round to it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted May 20, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 20, 2011 One thing to watch with the Hornby 25 - 24 or 25/0 conversion is the bodyside grilles which protrude slightly on the 24 and 25/0 but are flush on later 25s (and on the Hornby model too I think). As the Brassmasters cab roof is intended for the Bachmann it may not match the shape of a Hornby cab - probably not too much of a problem if you only want the headcode box though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jim s-w Posted May 20, 2011 Share Posted May 20, 2011 Hi Mark You'd be better off grafting your Hornby cabs to a Bachmann 24 middle and fixing the panels on the roof. Would be the easiest option I reckon. Hth Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted May 20, 2011 Author Share Posted May 20, 2011 I see what you guys mean over the raised side panels on the Bachmann body. this did start out as life as Bachmann 24081 but ive no idea what happened to the body. if I can find that I think I may do as Jim says, although is the Hornby body centre that bad? pic damage to the Hornby box, not too much of a problem to graft a replacement or one made from plasticard back on, luckily I didnt cut all the roof ouf. Jim, I read your article, one of the reasons I fancied giving it a go. whats the best to use for glazing the Hornby cabs? also, just placing the Hornby body on the Bachmann chassis I notice the bufferbeam seems low with a gap, I havent quite sussed what bit is out yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Neil Posted May 20, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 20, 2011 I see what you guys mean over the raised side panels on the Bachmann body. this did start out as life as Bachmann 24081 but ive no idea what happened to the body. if I can find that I think I may do as Jim says, although is the Hornby body centre that bad? Jims suggested technique does give the best appearance, but (and I may regret admitting this) I didn't do this because it never dawned on me that it might be possible and the models were complete before Jim's models hit the internet and I couldn't face going back and revising them. whats the best to use for glazing the Hornby cabs? I used 40thou cobex, cut to fit and fixed with a smear of Araldite. also, just placing the Hornby body on the Bachmann chassis I notice the bufferbeam seems low with a gap, I havent quite sussed what bit it out yet. Sorry I can't help you out with that one as it was some time ago, memory not what it was and i wouldn't want to lead you up a blind alley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted May 20, 2011 Share Posted May 20, 2011 I have been fitting a Hornby body onto a Bachmann chassis as well. I cut the buffer beams off the Bachmann chassis to shorten it slightly to match the Hornby body. In re-mounting them I have attached them to the body rather than the chassis. For glazing, I had an old SE Finecast flush glazing pack so used that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted May 20, 2011 Share Posted May 20, 2011 Hi Mike, The gap is the fact Hornby didnt model the extra lip that Bachmann did the should be an extra lip... Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted May 20, 2011 Author Share Posted May 20, 2011 so build the bottom of the cab with plasticard about 1mm or so. right, just noting everything down. think ive got my head round the tank mods and what to do.ie cut the gaps out. and ill go for the brassmasters resin tank. a416 I like that D5155 had the centre valances removed so we can see the gaps but the valances still present at the cab end, so will have to make the cab end valances out of plasticard. Neil has very kindly offered me brass replacement doors so thats a huge help. and I think the brassmasters etch a414 for the replacement roof vent and handrails should be got too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted May 21, 2011 Author Share Posted May 21, 2011 heres a shot of another class 25/0 in the same spot a little earlier, it may even be the same loco as its not recorded. [edit, the yellow panel is different although its the other end] http://www.flickr.co...157594326197552 too my untrained eye, and Im not just saying this as itll be less work to use the Hornby body as one, are the Bachmann side grills a little bit too pronounced? while the Hornby ones are flush, will it be as bad once its all painted weathered etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pennine MC Posted May 22, 2011 Share Posted May 22, 2011 heres a shot of another class 25/0 in the same spot a little earlier, it may even be the same loco as its not recorded. [edit, the yellow panel is different although its the other end] http://www.flickr.co...157594326197552 My supersenses tell me that's D5154 Watch the brass doors Mike; I've used two types in the past and dependent on their origin, they might not be wide enough to bridge the gap on the Hornby body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted May 22, 2011 Share Posted May 22, 2011 This is similar to a project which I have ongoing so might be of some help or relevence - http://eastmoor.blogspot.com/2010/06/operation-24-part-3.html Long time in the making but quite satisfying Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted May 22, 2011 Share Posted May 22, 2011 And just to add, a bit of further front end work around the windows - Still a long way to go but I think it captures the look of a Class 24. Certainly better than Bachmann's cabs do which is why this conversion is still worthwhile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted May 23, 2011 Author Share Posted May 23, 2011 will do Ian thanks James, Im still a bit undecided whether to do the cab swap, all depends on if my original Bachmann body turns up anyway, although I am leaning towards the cab swap. how much of a job would you say it is, does it line up ok and what about simple things like glue. is it mostly the Bachmann sides that are the reason for the keeping the centre of the body? but how do the roofs compare. ok the Hornby hasnt got water filler hatches and the roof grill fan isnt as good but apart from them 2 is the roof just as good on the Bachmann? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted May 23, 2011 Share Posted May 23, 2011 The roof profiles match perfectly IIRC! And You can easily add the filler detail using plastikard plus the fan grille can be upgraded thanks to the nice Mr Hanson's new Class 25 grille The sides for the Class 24 are very good but the roof still needs work - the paneling is wrong as it follows the line of where the grilles on the 25/3 would be! So that needs addressing - I think you should be able to make it out on my blog post. Providing you cut the bodies accurately and carefully you shouldn't have too many problems Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted May 23, 2011 Author Share Posted May 23, 2011 are both Bachmann roofs wrong as I have a 24 too, what I mean is the Hornby 25/2, baccy 25/3 and baccy 24 roof all wrong for a 25/0? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted May 23, 2011 Share Posted May 23, 2011 There is commonality between all the locos to a certain extent. The Bachmann 24 roof is probably near enough for a 25/0 but still needs work, especially for exhaust ports. The models do show their age - the development work was done, IIRC< by Mainline but models never followed. Have you seen Pete Johnson's articles on modelling Class 25s in REx? If not they are worth seeking out. Similarly Neil's article on modelling Class 24s in the Modeller is worth finding too for general information. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted May 23, 2011 Author Share Posted May 23, 2011 I havent seen Petes. Neil has sorted me with his article which is excellent, also Jims article is excellent too. as I say, I like the class, but not in a fanatical way so Ive not studied every rivet detail on them. but out of every variation I think the 25/0 is my favourite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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