cornish trains jez Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 Hi everyone, Is there a suitable 2mmFS chassis that would work well with the Farish HEA coal wagon? Thanks in advance for your help. Best regards, Jeremy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted December 30, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 30, 2014 Does anyone have experience of the use of tweezer handpieces for resistance soldering. There's an example shown at https://www.americanbeautytools.com/Resistance-Soldering/125 This seems to be the cheapest and designed for model work, they make much smaller finer ones that are much more expensive. And chunky one if you want to really heat up something. Oli A lady made some to work with a Resistance Unit and wrote it up for the Gauge 0 Gazette. She also adapted a clutch pencil using the pencil lead to make a very fine unit. I sent a photocopy to one 2miller I don't know wether he tried it. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
oily Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 A lady made some to work with a Resistance Unit and wrote it up for the Gauge 0 Gazette. She also adapted a clutch pencil using the pencil lead to make a very fine unit. I sent a photocopy to one 2miller I don't know wether he tried it. Don Don that sounds really most interesting, can you send me a copy off-line via "messages" (to save cluttering these pages) please. I had thought of doing that but have no idea how to achieve it. Many thanks Oli Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pixie Posted January 2, 2015 Author Share Posted January 2, 2015 I'd say it's really worth getting hold of the Stephen Harris etches for catfish and dogfish for 2FS rather than converting the Dapol ones - they blow the detail of the Dapol ones out of the water. The chunky axle guards, handrail detail and awkward coupling pocket that is integral with the deck just didn't cut it for me with 2FS track etc. the Harris etches are not an easy kit though, but worth it if you're confident soldering. I'm with Justin on this... but certainly build up to building some of Stephen's Catfish or Dogfish by doing some simpler kits first. When I first started doing some 2mm stuff, I went straight into building seven Dogfish and, whilst they are very well designed kits, the nature of the prototype means there's lot of very fiddly, repetitive bits. I did finally finish them after about 5 years with much threatening of taking up knitting instead, but would recommend doing something like a bunch of chassis kits or some of his minerals to get used to it all. I wish I had! Pix Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 5944 Posted January 25, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 25, 2015 I've had a look through various threads, but can't find a definitive answer. Is it possible to adjust the back to backs on 2mm scale wheels to allow them to run on N gauge track, specifically through Finetrax points? I'm happy with a lot of the newer N gauge stuff, but the wheels and/or motion on certain locos look a bit chunky. I don't really want to go down the 2mm finescale route, but I would like certain locos to look better. There a few 2mm conversion kits available that appeal that use the RTR chassis and include finer valve gear, cos the thought of scratchbuilding Walschaerts valve gear terrifies me! . There's a few answers about people using N gauge wheels on 2mm track, but not the other way round. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted January 25, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 25, 2015 The concern would be how well the wheels would cope with the wider flangeways. To make the fit you would be advised to take a smidgin of the ends of the axles to make sure they did not touch in the muff and cause a short. However the narrow treads could cause a bit of a bump at crossings on turnouts. The worst case would be it the wheels tried to take the wrong route in a crossing. Although Wayne's points do look better the flangeway is a fair bit wider than the 2mm ones. I think you would need to do a trial as I don't know if anyone has tried it. I think some years ago Mike Bryant supplied wheels to a different standard for N. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Izzy Posted January 25, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 25, 2015 I've had a look through various threads, but can't find a definitive answer. Is it possible to adjust the back to backs on 2mm scale wheels to allow them to run on N gauge track, specifically through Finetrax points? I'm happy with a lot of the newer N gauge stuff, but the wheels and/or motion on certain locos look a bit chunky. I don't really want to go down the 2mm finescale route, but I would like certain locos to look better. There a few 2mm conversion kits available that appeal that use the RTR chassis and include finer valve gear, cos the thought of scratchbuilding Walschaerts valve gear terrifies me! . There's a few answers about people using N gauge wheels on 2mm track, but not the other way round. I have carried out experiments with 2mm wagon and coach wheels in N gauge stock - so 6mm&7mm dia - on Peco N gauge code 80/55 track and points, and with a b-t-b setting of between 7.8mm-7.9mm they will run okay, but give the same less than wonderful bump/lurch through the point crossings as standard N gauge wheels. Part of the problem being that whilst the dead frog points are gauge consistent at 9.0mm at the crossing nose, with the live frog variety the samples I have had varied between 8.9mm and 9.2mm (rail nose not sitting centrally in the crossing). Using Finetrax with it's slightly narrower flangeways (I believe it might be 0.8mm but not sure) and perhaps more consistent gauge at the crossing nose since it's a casting the b-t-b might need to be a bit wider. Paper calculations indicate that the same 7.9mm figure used for the Peco points is needed so experimentation as to what figure actually works best would be required. The thinner 2mm profile wheel would cetainly look better, but running qualities might not be better as a key ingredient of 2FS is the narrower 0.5mm flangeways. Another aspect to consider is that the 2mm conversion parts might asume the use of the standard 2FS 8.5mm b-t-b and not be workable with a narrower one. Izzy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 I've had a look through various threads, but can't find a definitive answer. Is it possible to adjust the back to backs on 2mm scale wheels to allow them to run on N gauge track, specifically through Finetrax points? I'm happy with a lot of the newer N gauge stuff, but the wheels and/or motion on certain locos look a bit chunky. I don't really want to go down the 2mm finescale route, but I would like certain locos to look better. There a few 2mm conversion kits available that appeal that use the RTR chassis and include finer valve gear, cos the thought of scratchbuilding Walschaerts valve gear terrifies me! . There's a few answers about people using N gauge wheels on 2mm track, but not the other way round. Before I joined the 2mm assoc I went down exactly the same route that you're contemplating, and my conclusion 5yrs later is either do ngauge or do 2mm fs, trying to mix and match is more trouble than its worth and is neither one or the other. Why not give 2mm a try, once you've seen a 2mm loco traverse some finescale trackwork you might well be converted Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 5944 Posted January 25, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 25, 2015 Before I joined the 2mm assoc I went down exactly the same route that you're contemplating, and my conclusion 5yrs later is either do ngauge or do 2mm fs, trying to mix and match is more trouble than its worth and is neither one or the other. Why not give 2mm a try, once you've seen a 2mm loco traverse some finescale trackwork you might well be converted There's a couple of reasons for not going over fully to 2mm at present. One is the club layout I'm involved in is in N gauge using Finetrax, and the other is the amount of stock I have which will be running on said club layout. I'd love to go down the finescale route, but can't afford to rewheel or rechassis 200 items of rolling stock! Thanks for all the comments. I'm tempted to buy a simple chassis and see if it works, before going any further. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimly Feendish Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 Does anyone have experience of the use of tweezer handpieces for resistance soldering. There's an example shown at https://www.americanbeautytools.com/Resistance-Soldering/125 This seems to be the cheapest and designed for model work, they make much smaller finer ones that are much more expensive. And chunky one if you want to really heat up something. Oli Hi Oli, I have an American Beauty RSU with 'conventional' bit and the tweezers. Both have their uses for sure. I found the tweezers useful in assembling a brass kit (P4) where the ability to hold two parts together with the tweezers and then apply heat was really useful. I'd say they are a great addition but don't replace the need for the more conventional pencil type bit. Hope this helps, John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
oily Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 Hi Oli, I have an American Beauty RSU with 'conventional' bit and the tweezers. Both have their uses for sure. I found the tweezers useful in assembling a brass kit (P4) where the ability to hold two parts together with the tweezers and then apply heat was really useful. I'd say they are a great addition but don't replace the need for the more conventional pencil type bit. Hope this helps, John. Thanks John Thought I'd never get a response so I bought one and it certainly has it's uses where the single bit is struggling. I wouldn't be without it now. I'm thinking of modifying the handpiece though with (maybe a rod in tube guide) something to stop the ends crossing over so easily. Any ideas? Oli Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Hughes Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 I'd love to go down the finescale route, but can't afford to rewheel or rechassis 200 items of rolling stock! Then don't. Build, or buy, some new FS stock. If you were fancying a go at P4 or O Gauge you wouldn't expect to re-wheel your N Gauge stock. Start small with a layout that doesn't need a whole load of stock and see if you like it enough to want to do more. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 Hi, I may have asked this before but can't remember but I'm trying to redesign the return curves for my Par layout and was wondering if I could get away with 400mm radius into the fiddle yard? I'm really stuck for space as the N gauge track worked fine at a tight radius but now I'm using 2mmFS track and reprofiled wheels on my stock I don't want to end up with problems. I'm going to use DG couplings so I'll need to allow for that too. 400mm will be the minimum radius. Any help would be great! Best regards, Jeremy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 Hi, I may have asked this before but can't remember but I'm trying to redesign the return curves for my Par layout and was wondering if I could get away with 400mm radius into the fiddle yard? I'm really stuck for space as the N gauge track worked fine at a tight radius but now I'm using 2mmFS track and reprofiled wheels on my stock I don't want to end up with problems. I'm going to use DG couplings so I'll need to allow for that too. 400mm will be the minimum radius. Any help would be great! Best regards, Jeremy Why not knock up a length of flexi-track, bend it to size and see if your stock will negotiate it if you just use blue tac to hold the ends down, you can alter the tightness and experiment with the radius until you find one that works for your layout and stock 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 Why not knock up a length of flexi-track, bend it to size and see if your stock will negotiate it if you just use blue tac to hold the ends down, you can alter the tightness and experiment with the radius until you find one that works for your layout and stock Great idea Stuart, hadn't thought of that, thanks! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 Hi, I may have asked this before but can't remember but I'm trying to redesign the return curves for my Par layout and was wondering if I could get away with 400mm radius into the fiddle yard? I'm really stuck for space as the N gauge track worked fine at a tight radius but now I'm using 2mmFS track and reprofiled wheels on my stock I don't want to end up with problems. I'm going to use DG couplings so I'll need to allow for that too. 400mm will be the minimum radius. Any help would be great! Best regards, Jeremy 600mm is, I believe, the standard recommended minimum radius. If you're not using steam engines you may well get away with less. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted February 6, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 6, 2015 Hi, I may have asked this before but can't remember but I'm trying to redesign the return curves for my Par layout and was wondering if I could get away with 400mm radius into the fiddle yard? I'm really stuck for space as the N gauge track worked fine at a tight radius but now I'm using 2mmFS track and reprofiled wheels on my stock I don't want to end up with problems. I'm going to use DG couplings so I'll need to allow for that too. 400mm will be the minimum radius. Any help would be great! Best regards, Jeremy If you are really stuck for space it may be worth having a bit of transistion at the ends of the curve. A short length of 600mm leading into the 400 mm will reduce the effect at the start of the curve the maximum offset is when one long vehicle is on the curve while the the one it is coupled two is still on the straight. The short bit of transition will use up a bit of length but not that much width. It will not help if the loco wheel base wont cope with 400mm but helps with the couplings on bogie vehcles. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 The BH Enterprises price list shows a "steam generator" in the "Brass detailing parts" category: BHE307 - "1 steam generator, £1.25". Is this the same component as the "Steam Reverser" which looks similar to a Westinghouse pump? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 I thought the big tubular bit between the fire box and the smoke box was the 'steam generator', but what do I know? Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 In this picture on Flickr (a Class C outside Faversham's Locomotive Shed) the Steam Reverser is positioned vertically on the footplate between the leading and the second pair of driving wheels. The Westinghouse pump is also positioned vertically on the footplate, just in front of the cab, by the fire-box. I just wonder if anyone has used the BH Enterprises "steam generator" and if it looks anything like a steam reversing device. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sykes Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Relatively few Cs had Westinghouse pumps, originally fitted to work LCDR air-braked stock after the working Union that formed the SECR. I'm sure you're aware of this, but it does mean you need to pick your loco number carefully. I suspect a steam generator is likely to be one of the gadgets fitted to late period steam engines to power electric lights, though I can't be sure. Possibly starting with the Association Westinghouse pump casting and modifying it might be a route to follow for the steam reverser? Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DavidLong Posted February 10, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 10, 2015 In this picture on Flickr (a Class C outside Faversham's Locomotive Shed) the Steam Reverser is positioned vertically on the footplate between the leading and the second pair of driving wheels. The Westinghouse pump is also positioned vertically on the footplate, just in front of the cab, by the fire-box. I just wonder if anyone has used the BH Enterprises "steam generator" and if it looks anything like a steam reversing device. Hi Valentin, If it helps please find some pics below of the steam reverser attached to the Q class at the Bluebell. It is mounted horizontally unlike on the C Class but you find it useful if you can modify a Westinghouse pump. Always hoped that I might find a Graham Hughes Q Class kit but never did. Keith Gloster made a lovely job of his. I'm enjoying your build of the C. David 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Hughes Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Always hoped that I might find a Graham Hughes Q Class kit but never did. Keith Gloster made a lovely job of his. I was just thinking I used to do a casting of that reverser. Not got any now, but as I recall the pattern was not all that difficult to make. Basically a couple of bits of tube with a wire down the middle and the crank fastened on the end and a couple of bits of NS soldered on and filed into shape for whatever the sticky out bits were. If it doesn't have to go in a mould it could be even simpler to make one out of styrene. I liked the Q, I think it was my favourite of the loco kits. Nice to hear of someone who made a nice job of one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold mikes rail Posted February 22, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 22, 2015 2 mm association Pipe wagon kit Good evening all, I have being building the above kit and as it is getting near painting my thoughts turned to the decals for it, I have being looking at a number of suppiers but can not seem to pin down the right ones for this kit, any help would be most welcome. Thank you Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
autocoupler942 Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 There seem to be precious few entries in the 2mm Scale section over the past week or so. Is there a glitch or is everyone otherwise occupied? I do like reading what you are all up to. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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