buffalo Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 Nick, are the "feeler gauges" available from the association shop? I've no idea if they do a suitable gauge, I just meant ordinary spark plug or similar feeler gauges from Halfords, etc. Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 Ah ok. Stiff bit of metal should do the trick then. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted August 9, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 9, 2014 (edited) A bit of 20thou should do ok. For soldered construction steel or aluminium would be less likely to get soldered in. Don edit for sticking key problem Edited August 9, 2014 by Donw Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted August 9, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 9, 2014 A jig for the common crossing really isn't necesary. I've built many dozens of points and never used one yet beyond a simple jig of card or thin ply laid over the drawing for the angle of the V. Mind, I've never used templot either, I find a pencil, ruler and a bendy stick far quicker and more flexible. Jerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ian Smeeton Posted August 9, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 9, 2014 Bendy sticks do tend to be more flexible, but I find that pencils & rulers break when bent! Regards# Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 A jig for the common crossing really isn't necesary. I've built many dozens of points and never used one yet beyond a simple jig of card or thin ply laid over the drawing for the angle of the V. Mind, I've never used templot either, I find a pencil, ruler and a bendy stick far quicker and more flexible. Jerry I agree. I do use templot as it allows very fast accurate development of a full flowing trackplan rather than sticking to fixed geometry. However I have never yet had to use a jig to make crossings. Overlaying on the template with the tips sufficently filed work perfectly fine. I find that as long as the tip is filed (I use a dremel for speed myself) at an angle equal to the crossing or slightly more acute any error in angle is just filled with solder in any case when joined. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Izzy Posted August 10, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 10, 2014 I have found that a jig made crossing is easier if you are using easitrac bases/chairs without substituting pcb sleepers under the crossing, but one off jigs for any angle (one for the nose and another to add the wing rails) can fairly easily be made using card/ply of suitable thickness. Izzy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 I agree. I build pcb under the crossing for security (I would sooner sacrifice a bit of realism for the rails staying intact in this location during numerous baseboard movements attending shows, bit ocd about that I guess) so never need a jig. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DavidLong Posted August 11, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 11, 2014 Hi everyone, Is there such thing as a 1:9 template and jig available for turnouts? The association shop only seems to do them up to 1:8. Best regards, Jeremy Like others on here I have built many a crossing over the years without benefit of jigs. However all my recent ones have been built using the Association jigs and believe that they are one of the best products that the Association has produced in recent years. They are almost fool-proof in use and, for a small investment ,will last for many years of use. I must admit that I did wonder what offence 1:9 crossings had caused to be left out of the list when it jumps from 1:8 to 1:10. Personally, Jeremy I'd keep lobbying for the 1:9 to be added. The Association Product Development Officer is on RM Web . . . By the way, as an aside, I also used to draw out layout plans with pencil and paper but no more. Templot, with all its idiosyncracies, is the answer I had had been hoping for over the years. No more rolls of lining paper for me or even individual templates. If you want a truly holistic and endlessly refinable method of layout design then Templot's your man. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 Like others on here I have built many a crossing over the years without benefit of jigs. However all my recent ones have been built using the Association jigs and believe that they are one of the best products that the Association has produced in recent years. They are almost fool-proof in use and, for a small investment ,will last for many years of use. I must admit that I did wonder what offence 1:9 crossings had caused to be left out of the list when it jumps from 1:8 to 1:10. Personally, Jeremy I'd keep lobbying for the 1:9 to be added. The Association Product Development Officer is on RM Web . . . David If you have lots of 1 in 9 crossings to make, and want a jig, the chap who makes them for the Association will also do custom versions (look up Alan Smith's details in the back of the 2mm yearbook). As for adding them to the 2mm product range, it's a good idea in principle, but there needs to be a realistic demand for them first. If 10 or so people expressed an interest in them, then they are more likely to appear... Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
graham63 Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 I have just been admiring John Birkitt-Smith's Ashburton and reading about his loco's where he talks of swapping gears in Farish chassis does anyone know if he would have used Association gears or ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John lewsey Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 Hi can anyone tell me the width of the track bed should be on a two track viaduct I'm looking for the wall to wall measurement John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Izzy Posted August 23, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 23, 2014 Hi can anyone tell me the width of the track bed should be on a two track viaduct I'm looking for the wall to wall measurement John I don't know if there is a standard width as such, just probably the minimum as per the standard construction gauge. So for double track at the minimum 6' way standard (11'2" between centre lines) this would be 26'6". Izzy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Devil Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 Complete novice question.... I'm contemplating a model of the Grimsby and Immingham Tramway with the Grimsby and district light railway running parallel in either N or 2mm. There's no way I want to use code 55 rail so the options seem to be either Finetrax or Easitrac, the layout will be relatively simple and I will need the grand total of 2 turnouts to create a passing loop on the scenic section, the question being is it possible to purchase ready built code 40 points from anyone....ie does anyone build them to order etc,for speed and ease of use I'd prefer to just buy a pair rather than investing in various jigs etc as it will only be a small diversion from my other stuff? Rolling stock for the Tramway is not a problem... The majority of the car bodies used are now done.... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
autocoupler942 Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 (edited) If you are having a just passing loop why not consider "fixed" turnouts as devised by Stewart Hine for the Underground section of Copenhagen Fields? I think the modus operatum was featured in an early MRJ. This means the cars would always pass each other the same "hand".No turnout linkage would be required and a timer delay could be installed. Being two facing turnouts the change-over of frog polarity needs to be considered. Perhaps Stewart, Tim Watson or Richard Wilson can give the issue number? Edited August 24, 2014 by autocoupler942 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelcliffe Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 Complete novice question.... .....I will need the grand total of 2 turnouts to create a passing loop on the scenic section, the question being is it possible to purchase ready built code 40 points from anyone....ie does anyone build them to order etc, Answer to many novice questions - Read the Yearbook. In the back, you'll find all sorts of useful information, including details of how to contact Keith Armes who offers to build trackwork for people. - Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 Answer to many novice questions - Read the Yearbook. In the back, you'll find all sorts of useful information, including details of how to contact Keith Armes who offers to build trackwork for people. - Nigel Indeed, but that does rather assume that the individual asking the question is already a 2mm SA member... Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted August 25, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 25, 2014 Indeed, but that does rather assume that the individual asking the question is already a 2mm SA member... Andy True but if they want to obtain rail and easitrac parts being a member would be a good idea plus wheels etc. Seeing as I assume the models would not be available in N gauge going 2mfs may well be the easiest option. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Devil Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 Answer to many novice questions - Read the Yearbook. In the back, you'll find all sorts of useful information, including details of how to contact Keith Armes who offers to build trackwork for people. - Nigel Indeed, but that does rather assume that the individual asking the question is already a 2mm SA member... Andy True but if they want to obtain rail and easitrac parts being a member would be a good idea plus wheels etc. Seeing as I assume the models would not be available in N gauge going 2mfs may well be the easiest option. Don Thanks for the replies.... I can see the points all are making....no currently I'm not a 2mm SA member, it does however now probably make sense to join and go 2mm rather than the Finetrax route, certainly for access to track parts etc.... So question successfully answered.....many thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 How does everybody letter wagons? Transfers? Hand painting? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boatman Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 I made the pattern years ago for the N-Drive 2mm Wisbech and Upwell Tramway tram loco. I would like to build a small working diorama to show this off for Nev when he does shows. Would it be possible to obtain , say, a few feet of Easitrack and a single turnout kit (?) from the club without having to join as this would be my only foray into 2mm fs. Many thanks. Boatman Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 2mmMark Posted September 2, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 2, 2014 (edited) If you're sticking with N scale wheels, a 2mm finescale turnout would need some adjustment. However, all is not lost, good looking N gauge track is available from http://www.britishfinescale.com I would think a metre of their track plus an A5 turnout kit would be suitable. Has the Tram loco kit been released yet? Mark Edited September 2, 2014 by 2mmMark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DavidLong Posted September 2, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 2, 2014 How does everybody letter wagons? Transfers? Hand painting? Hi Gareth, I think that the answer may depend on the period that you are modelling. For any time after 1923 there are numerous transfer ranges available for a large variety of stock. For the 'Big Four' era then Modelmaster transfers via the N Gauge society have a reasonable range. For the B.R. era into the early TOPS period then Modelmaster, Cambridge Custom Transfers and Fox could provide most of what you would require. For TOPS onwards there are other producers whose names I can't recall at present! For the pre-grouping era, transfers are harder to find although I do recall that there are some about for a small number of companies and one of my 2FS colleagues may be able to provide the necessary information. Hand lettering is an art in itself and, done well can certainly look convincing and provide insignia that may not otherwise be available. I emphasise the 'done well' as, otherwise, like poor weathering it can let down a vehicle or locomotive that you may have spent a lot of time in building. In brief, transfers for me everytime. David PS There'll probably be someone along at some point to tell you how easy it is to make your own transfers . . . life . . . too short . . . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Thanks David, The majority is Grouping stock which has yet to be repainted from it's previous owner. Just to be difficult. LNWR, MR, NER, GN primarily. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill-lobb Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Thanks David, The majority is Grouping stock which has yet to be repainted from it's previous owner. Just to be difficult. LNWR, MR, NER, GN primarily. Phil Smith used to do 2mm pre group wagon transfers. I don't know if they are still available as I haven't ordered any for a few years, Details are here: http://www.2mm.org.uk/small_suppliers/philsmith/index.htm Bill 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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