richbrummitt Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 I'm in a perpetual cycle of work, feed baby, wind baby, try and cook then eat dinner before baby wakes up for feeding again, feed baby again, wind baby again, settle baby, go to sleep, get woken by baby being fed, sleep some more, and repeat. Not much time for models right now and yes, despite how what I write reads, Mum is doing plenty for our little man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 I'm in a perpetual cycle of work, feed baby, wind baby, try and cook then eat dinner before baby wakes up for feeding again, feed baby again, wind baby again, settle baby, go to sleep, get woken by baby being fed, sleep some more, and repeat. Not much time for models right now and yes, despite how what I write reads, Mum is doing plenty for our little man. I was there nearly two years ago. Ours still keeps us awake and it's very difficult to get modelling time in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted March 6, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 6, 2015 I'm in a perpetual cycle of work, feed baby, wind baby, try and cook then eat dinner before baby wakes up for feeding again, feed baby again, wind baby again, settle baby, go to sleep, get woken by baby being fed, sleep some more, and repeat. Not much time for models right now and yes, despite how what I write reads, Mum is doing plenty for our little man. You will be neding a Thomas the Tank soon then. Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 I'm in a perpetual cycle of work, feed baby, wind baby, try and cook then eat dinner before baby wakes up for feeding again, feed baby again, wind baby again, settle baby, go to sleep, get woken by baby being fed, sleep some more, and repeat. Not much time for models right now and yes, despite how what I write reads, Mum is doing plenty for our little man. Congratulations Richard. I had heard that you had already started the model railway indoctrination with a visit to the Abingdon show last weekend! Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted March 6, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 6, 2015 Congratulations Richard. I had heard that you had already started the model railway indoctrination with a visit to the Abingdon show last weekend! Andy They certainly did, Brummitt Jr. Is a cracking little chap with a fine head of hair. Mum and Dad did get a bit of a break as Kim and Pauline (StRuth) took it in turns to have a cuddle - they couldn't resist a new baby:-) Jerry 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Alex Duckworth Posted March 6, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 6, 2015 Congratulations Richard. Actually, you will find that you look back with fondness to this phase - you have walking and talking yet to come! On the modelling front I'm currently converting a Farish 2MT with one of Nigel's excellent etches, using the Association's new bearings which fit perfectly. Alex. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 You will be neding a Thomas the Tank soon then. Don I've had an N gauge TTTE, Percy, Henry and James for several years. They just need somewhere to run 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 I've had an N gauge TTTE, Percy, Henry and James for several years. They just need somewhere to run You are going to finescale them first right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 Just out of curiosity: why has the 'N Gauge Now magazine' subject been closed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PLD Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 Just out of curiosity: why has the 'N Gauge Now magazine' subject been closed? Probably because it is a Duplicate of a topic in the media section... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh993 Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 Having converted a class 24, I am looking to convert something that's a bit more ambitious such as the new Farish Jinty. Looking at the association website it says that either 9mm or 9.5mm drivers can be used for the conversion. Is there any benefits/preferences on whether to use 9 or 9.5mm wheels before I place an order? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted March 26, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 26, 2015 The conversion kit for the new Farish Jinty is very straightforward. I would go with the 9mm wheels. They will cause fewer problems with the brakes, splashes etc and once the overscale flange is taken into account better represent the correct size wheels. Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 What is the best practice when it comes to fitting the DG or BB couplings to the model? First, paint the model then glue (Epoxy) the coupling to the chassis, OR solder the coupling to the chassis then paint everything? Thanks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nig H Posted April 9, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 9, 2015 What is the best practice when it comes to fitting the DG or BB couplings to the model? First, paint the model then glue (Epoxy) the coupling to the chassis, OR solder the coupling to the chassis then paint everything? Thanks, Hi Valentin, I'd solder the couplings in place before painting as I think its more robust than using glue. Your model looks really good, but the pics on your blog gave me the impression that the dome or chimney have a very slight lean to one side. Maybe my eyes are malfunctioning but it might be worthwhile double checking. This potential problem is why I always epoxy chimneys and domes in place. You can make small corrections to the alignment while the glue goes off. Nig H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Izzy Posted April 9, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 9, 2015 What is the best practice when it comes to fitting the DG or BB couplings to the model? First, paint the model then glue (Epoxy) the coupling to the chassis, OR solder the coupling to the chassis then paint everything? Thanks, In my experience Evostick is the only glue I have found to hold them long term, that can absorb the shocks when they bang against each other, since it's a bit rubbery when set. With other glues that set hard, cryno, epoxy, etc, the glue joint tends to fracture. If you solder them in place before painting just remember not to get paint anywhere near them. I just use Birchwood Casey blackening on them. Izzy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 (edited) I did see someone recommend drilling a couple of holes in the mounting plate of the coupler. Then, if you use epoxy, some of the adhesive will come through the hole and firmly secure it. This way you aren't just relying on the interface strength of the adhesive. Edited April 9, 2015 by Rabs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted April 9, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 9, 2015 I'd solder them on Valentin, I wouldn't worry too much about paint it's only the delay latch and a bit of finger wiggling will soon free it up. If you prefer to glue afterwards do as Rab suggests and drill a hole in the mounting plate to give a more secure glue joint. I've always used epoxy and never had any problems Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 2mmMark Posted April 9, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 9, 2015 This is my current glue of choice: http://www.bostik.co.uk/diy/product/evo-stik/Serious-Glue/16 It's got the strength of epoxy with the convenience of superglue. Very good for glueing DGs to rolling stock. Takes about 10 minutes to go off and then full hardness after 24 hours. In practice, you can use the glued joint in about 20-30 minutes if it's something like DG to chassis joint. I believe it's an acrylic formulation. No noticeable smell. Easily available, I get mine in my local Tesco. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Thank you all for your feedback. I'm gonna try to build first a few couplings and try to fix them before painting; to be honest, I'm looking for reasons to push back as much as possible the priming / painting process as it's so easy to ruin the model. [...] Your model looks really good, but the pics on your blog gave me the impression that the dome or chimney have a very slight lean to one side. Maybe my eyes are malfunctioning but it might be worthwhile double checking. This potential problem is why I always epoxy chimneys and domes in place. You can make small corrections to the alignment while the glue goes off. Nig H Thank you, Nigel. You're right, the dome has a very slight lean to the left side which, if you look at the real model is hardly noticeable but it's more eye-catching in the pictures. The viewer should look directly from above to notice it. I wouldn't try to fix it as I don't think it's worth the trouble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sibertswold Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Hi Valentin Great to see good progress with your C class. Regarding fixing couplings, you could utilize screw fixings already securing chassis to bodies. This would allow removal when you paint model and any future maintenance needs. You may need to bend/shape DG couplings to suit height etc.but it should be possible. Regards Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Does anybody know how Network rail work out the speed limit for a length of track? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Does anybody know how Network rail work out the speed limit for a length of track? I know it says "Any Question Answered", but surely that one will get a better airing in the prototype forums of RMweb? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ian Smeeton Posted April 20, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 20, 2015 Does anybody know how Network rail work out the speed limit for a length of track? By sending trains steadily faster until one comes off. Exactly the same as I did with my Triang Dock shunter on the hardboard baseboard I used for my first model railway. Regards Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted May 12, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 12, 2015 (edited) Hello all, There seems to be an ever increasing interest in 2mm finescale and as a result there is the possibility of questions that some people may think are too obvious or silly and be afraid to ask. Well, this is the place for them, absolutley anything to do with 2mm finescale modelling is invited and I'm sure with the knowledge base that this forum has that a complete answer can be provided. One suggestion I would make is for new comers to 2mm to have a read through this page - http://2mm.org.uk/ar...rted/index.html - for an excellent overview of the scale. Full credit must go to Bryn for the idea of this thread. As long as people think it's a good idea, I shall make this a sticky post and as questions arise I will add an index to this post. So, please, fire away. Pix Hello. I'm sorry but I am not a 2mm FS modeller, however I need small loco handrail knobs! Are 2mm scale ones available? Phil Edited May 12, 2015 by Mallard60022 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 Hello. I'm sorry but I am not a 2mm FS modeller, however I need small loco handrail knobs! Are 2mm scale ones available? Phil Phil, N Brass Loco are probably your best bet. Item code 2280 (loco handrail knobs 0.25mm hole, 0.45mm shank, 3mm long, 12 pack for £4-20) which is listed on the BR Parts page. No connection other than as a regular customer. Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now