Any Question Answered

[autocoupler942]

Trying to find Maunsell coaches on Hattons?  

Go to Hattons N gauge > coaches > Dapol.  You won't find them listed under the first 2 eras but instead scroll down to show all > page 2.  The first one ilisted is not flagged as pre-order but I guess that's another mistake they've made. There are 8 to choose from but, as yet. no images for brake-ends.

Edited September 6, 2015 by autocoupler942

[Tim V]

I've noticed that rail is a very small section and is often bent or curved. Anyone got any ideas on how to straighten it out? I'm thinking I've seen some rollers somewhere, but can't remember where that was.

[Caley Jim]

I've noticed that rail is a very small section and is often bent or curved. Anyone got any ideas on how to straighten it out? I'm thinking I've seen some rollers somewhere, but can't remember where that was.

I simply draw it between my finger and thumb, slightly curving it against the existing curve.  You may need to do this several times, back and forth, until you get it reasonably straight.  Assuming that you are using Easitrac, once it's fitted in the sleepers and they are glued down, using some weight on them until the glue sets, the track will stay flat and in alignment unless there are serious kinks in the rail.  The rail doesn't have to be dead straight first.   The same would apply to soldered track, whether assembled in a jig or in situ.

 

Jim

[Crosland]

The biggest issue is when its bent in the vertical plain. It's much harder to grip and straighten that way. 

 

Andrew

[richbrummitt]

I've noticed that rail is a very small section and is often bent or curved. Anyone got any ideas on how to straighten it out? I'm thinking I've seen some rollers somewhere, but can't remember where that was.

 

Purely out of interest, Tim, are you using it from a 10m coil or the more recent straight (500mm) lengths? The latter were brought back because people wanted straighter rail without the bends/kinks. Perhaps the product or packaging isn't working as well as it might? Personally I've only ever used rail off a coil and have straightened it the way that Jim suggested in post #803

[Tim V]

Thanks, but I think the straight rail is nickel silver - which I don't want.

[Crosland]

Purely out of interest, Tim, are you using it from a 10m coil or the more recent straight (500mm) lengths? The latter were brought back because people wanted straighter rail without the bends/kinks. Perhaps the product or packaging isn't working as well as it might? Personally I've only ever used rail off a coil and have straightened it the way that Jim suggested in post #803

 

I know I really should take this up with the society shop keeper (which I now will) but my recent order of 500mm lengths were bent to fit in a large Jiffy bag. That's how I ended up with rail being bent in the vertical plane. Next time I order I will request a postal tube, even if it costs more.

 

Andrew

[queensquare]

Thanks, but I think the straight rail is nickel silver - which I don't want.

Hi Tim, if you are thinking of using steel code 40 rail I would advise forget it it's much too soft.

 

Jerry

[Tim V]

Hi Tim, if you are thinking of using steel code 40 rail I would advise forget it it's much too soft.

 

Jerry

I'm actually using the steel rail. I don't get on with nickel rail, the frantic cleaning that it needs will probably wreck the top line of the rail anyway!

[Donw]

Nickel Silver rail shouldn't need much aggressive cleaning as the oxide is conductive. True it doesn't look so shiney.

 

Don

[Caley Jim]

I'm actually using the steel rail. I don't get on with nickel rail, the frantic cleaning that it needs will probably wreck the top line of the rail anyway!

Tim, as Jerry points out, it doesn't need aggressive cleaning,  apart from scraping off any paint in the first instance.  A rub along it with a narrow strip of hardboard, or the finest grade on a cheap nail burnisher, is enough.

 

Jim

[Tim V]

One of the reasons I seriously considered 2mm was the fact that steel rail was available! I did not want to go back to nickel rail.

 

Anyway, I've found a relevant article in the April 2005 magazine, but the diagram has not rendered well, can someone check their copy and tell me the dimensions in figure 1, page 31 please.

[autocoupler942]

Can you verify your reference as.in the 2MM Association Magazine. April 2005 page 31 is an article on a Dapol 1400 and no figures?  Let me know and I will then check dimensions for you.

[2mmMark]

I've never found the Association's nickel-silver rail to be much of a problem to keep clean.  As Jim suggests, I use a fingernail polisher to clean the rail head.   I've used both the traditional strip rail and bullhead.

 

At a previous Scaleforum, I discussed the steel vs nickel-silver issue with Norman Solomon, who's a track builder of some repute.  His view was that the best choice was nickel-silver rail with a high nickel content. That had the look of steel with the corrosion resistance of nickel-silver.

 

It could well be that the composition of the alloy has a bearing on how clean the track stays. The backstage track on my Irish narrow gauge diorama is Marklin Z set track for convenience. This does need more cleaning than the code 40 strip rail in the visible section. I have heard from other Nn3 modellers that Marklin rail is prone to oxidising.

 

I do have some steel rail to try. Initial experiments puting some into Easitrac bases did show that it's very ductile and doesn't have the springiness of nickel-silver rail.  I think it could be very easy to kink the rail accidentally.

 

Mark

[Tim V]

Oops, page 23 (senior moment...).

[autocoupler942]

Oops, page 23 (senior moment...).

Having now found the page and drawing in question I agree it is very fuzzy. Even with the use of a powerful loupe the figures defy positive deciphering without guess work. Apart from anything else there is no mention of the diameter of the pillars. Perhaps if you ask Mick Simpson (editor at the time of publication) he might have the original drawings still on file or he could check with the author.

[2mm Andy]

Having now found the page and drawing in question I agree it is very fuzzy. Even with the use of a powerful loupe the figures defy positive deciphering without guess work. Apart from anything else there is no mention of the diameter of the pillars. Perhaps if you ask Mick Simpson (editor at the time of publication) he might have the original drawings still on file or he could check with the author.

 

I have a feeling that John Williamson (who wrote the article) is sadly no longer with us. Mick may well have the article details still though - I've got to drop him an email about the AGM catering this weekend, so will ask.

 

Andy

[Crosland]

I know I really should take this up with the society shop keeper (which I now will) but my recent order of 500mm lengths were bent to fit in a large Jiffy bag. That's how I ended up with rail being bent in the vertical plane. Next time I order I will request a postal tube, even if it costs more.

 

Andrew

 

Had a very quick reply from the Association sales officer. It has always been the intention and in future the straight rails should be posted out in suitable packaging to keep them straight.

 

Andrew

[Tim V]

I have a feeling that John Williamson (who wrote the article) is sadly no longer with us. Mick may well have the article details still though - I've got to drop him an email about the AGM catering this weekend, so will ask.

 

Andy

Thanks.

 

I've just started experimenting with a couple of pieces of bar to see what results I get, looks promising.

[Southernboy]

Hello 2mm people.

 

I'm working on some N gauge 3-Subs (thread in my signature), and although I have one of those desk-mounted illuminated magnifying glasses, am still struggling to see what I'm doing when it comes to the fine detail - in my case painting the head code stencils in particular.

 

Can anyone offer advice on how to paint such small lettering / any magnifying products I can use in addition too / instead of the maginifier I already have?

 

In terms of painting fine lines, I'm using a 000 Kolinsky brush, but even that feels a little clumsy. Would it help to pull / trim some hairs?

 

I'm fairly good when it comes to having a steady hand / perseverance / patience / it's just seeing / focusing on what I'm doing and finding a suitably fine tool to paint with that is problematic. I've tried cocktail sticks, pins, but they're not doing the trick (combined with previously mentioned difficulty in seeing)

 

Many thanks in advance,

 

Mark

Edited October 25, 2015 by Southernboy

[Chris Higgs]

Hello 2mm people.

 

I'm working on some N gauge 3-Subs (thread in my signature), and although I have one of those desk-mounted illuminated magnifying glasses, am still struggling to see what I'm doing when it comes to the fine detail - in my case painting the head code stencils in particular.

 

Can anyone offer advice on how to paint such small lettering / any magnifying products I can use in addition too / instead of the maginifier I already have?

 

In terms of painting fine lines, I'm using a 000 Kolinsky brush, but even that feels a little clumsy. Would it help to pull / trim some hairs?

 

I'm fairly good when it comes to having a steady hand / perseverance / patience / it's just seeing / focusing on what I'm doing and finding a suitably fine tool to paint with that is problematic. I've tried cocktail sticks, pins, but they're not doing the trick (combined with previously mentioned difficulty in seeing)

 

Many thanks in advance,

 

Mark

 

The advice I have heard from professional model painters (like Ian Rathbone) is not to try and paint a fine line. Paint a thick one, then paint down each side of it in the background colour. Provided you have the required level of skill to paint straight, you can get a much thinner result this way.

 

Oh, and practice, practice, practice. Not just the drawing, but the consistency of the paint and so on. Ian told me he practices every day on cheap plastic bodies before moving to his customers' prized brass models. Great pianists are made in the practice room, not on the concert stage. 

 

Chris

[Nigelcliffe]

Hello 2mm people.

 

I'm working on some N gauge 3-Subs (thread in my signature), and although I have one of those desk-mounted illuminated magnifying glasses, am still struggling to see what I'm doing when it comes to the fine detail - in my case painting the head code stencils in particular.

 

Can anyone offer advice on how to paint such small lettering / any magnifying products I can use in addition too / instead of the maginifier I already have?

 

In terms of painting fine lines, I'm using a 000 Kolinsky brush, but even that feels a little clumsy. Would it help to pull / trim some hairs?

I have some clip-on magnifiers which fit on my glasses (which I need to see straight). Those may help, and if you don't wear glasses at all, possibly the cheap (magnifying) reading specs from a supermarket might help.

 

For lines and letters, a lining pen might help. I have a small set of them from Freestone Models. They were quite expensive, and need regular intensive cleaning. Or, DIY transfers for the headcode - print black onto white transfer paper.

 

 

- Nigel

 

 

 

- Nigel

[omgTrain]

Can anyone offer advice on how to paint such small lettering / any magnifying products I can use in addition too / instead of the maginifier I already have?

 

I'm fairly good when it comes to having a steady hand / perseverance / patience / it's just seeing / focusing on what I'm doing and finding a suitably fine tool to paint with that is problematic. I've tried cocktail sticks, pins, but they're not doing the trick (combined with previously mentioned difficulty in seeing)

 

Not sure if you wear glasses, but this might seem silly. I have a pair of glasses with just normal glass in, and also use some clip ons. I can't remember where I got them from however here is a link to something similar on amazon.

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Clip-Magnifying-Glasses-448-everything/dp/B001DJ8DM4

 

Or there is always the option of getting a nice light with the built in magnifying element. Something like below.

 

 

But regardless of the method of magnifying the work area, I would always use some really thin masking tape just as an added safeguard. 

[cornish trains jez]

Not sure if you wear glasses, but this might seem silly. I have a pair of glasses with just normal glass in, and also use some clip ons. I can't remember where I got them from however here is a link to something similar on amazon.

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Clip-Magnifying-Glasses-448-everything/dp/B001DJ8DM4

 

Or there is always the option of getting a nice light with the built in magnifying element. Something like below.

 

 

411-566.01_s500_p1._Ve31e5e3f_.jpg

 

But regardless of the method of magnifying the work area, I would always use some really thin masking tape just as an added safeguard.

 

I have one of these and its brilliant! Highly recommended!!

[Southernboy]

Thanks all, very much appreciated.

 

I wear glasses, and have one of those illuminated lamps.

 

I think the answer is going to be between extra maginfification and thinning out a fine paint brush (somehow you know these things in your bones before you even pose the question, yet pose the question all the same!)

 

Many thanks again,

 

Mark