Any Question Answered

[Valentin]

Hello,

 

 

Would a tender locomotive (0-4-2), using a universal joint through the cab, work with N gauge track (even with Peco Setrack 9")? Are there any particularities? The UJ will be built as described by Dave Holland in the "Build an 0-6-0 in Two Millimetre Scale" brochure.

 

Thank you,

[Chris Higgs]

Hello,

 

 

Would a tender locomotive (0-4-2), using a universal joint through the cab, work with N gauge track (even with Peco Setrack 9")? Are there any particularities? The UJ will be built as described by Dave Holland in the "Build an 0-6-0 in Two Millimetre Scale" brochure.

 

Thank you,

 

I don't see any particular reason why the UJ would present an issue. Dapol have UJs on their locos, including the 0-6-0 Q1 which is not a million miles from an 0-4-2T and I am guessing it goes around sharp curves (not that I own any to try my Q1 on!).

 

You might have issues getting enough weight forward over the drivers in the loco to get good traction, but that is neither specific to N or to using a UJ.

 

Chris

Edited January 15, 2016 by Chris Higgs

[Caley Jim]

Would a tender locomotive (0-4-2), using a universal joint through the cab, work with N gauge track (even with Peco Setrack 9")? Are there any particularities? The UJ will be built as described by Dave Holland in the "Build an 0-6-0 in Two Millimetre Scale" brochure.

An 0-4-2 presents no particular issues per se, other than that of traction limited by the low weight.  I have a CR one, the build of which was described in the Feb., April and June 2003 issues of the 2MM Magazine.  It has the motor in the tender driving the loco through UJ's with the drive shaft below the footplate as is my regular design.

 

How it would behave on the sharp curves you suggest is a different issue which would be common to any loco with a tender mounted motor driving the loco.  I can't comment on that since the tightest curve mine has operated on was 18" (457mm).

 

Jim

[CF MRC]

The engine will perform much better with finescale wheels Valentin. My Johnosn single was originally made with n gauge wheels and spent more time going sideways than forwards. I think that the better fit of wheel to rail gives better traction in a small awkward engine.

 

Tim

[ThePurplePrimer]

I have yet another question

 

I would really like to get my hands on one of your 2FS starter kits - the wagon and a short piece of track

 

But - I am not going to be getting to any shows any time soon to see you guys and pick one up in person - would it be possible for a non member to get hold of one of the kits mail order ?

 

Pretty please ?

[2mm Andy]

I have yet another question

 

I would really like to get my hands on one of your 2FS starter kits - the wagon and a short piece of track

 

But - I am not going to be getting to any shows any time soon to see you guys and pick one up in person - would it be possible for a non member to get hold of one of the kits mail order ?

 

Pretty please ?

 

I'd suggest sending an email to our Sales officer (sales@2mm.org.uk) asking about them - I believe that we have sent them via mail order in the past for those who can't get them at exhibitions.

 

Andy

[ThePurplePrimer]

I can't stand it anymore - I am going to have to join I think

 

Hang on though ....

 

Typical of my luck though I just went to join online and I have just found out via the website that the shop is closed until 16th February - arghhhhhhhhhh !

 

EDIT - I didn't read the notice properly - please see the next post below 

Edited January 18, 2016 by ThePurplePrimer

[Izzy]

I can't stand it anymore - I am going to have to join I think

 

Hang on though ....

 

Typical of my luck though I just went to join online and I have just found out via the website that the shop is closed until 16th February - arghhhhhhhhhh !

They do say that good things are worth waiting for.....but that's just shop3. Shop1 - track etc, and shop2 - wagons etc, are still open.

 

Izzy

[ThePurplePrimer]

Hi Izzy

 

Hang on - why dont I learn to read properly - that means I could buy some track building gubbins

 

Back for a proper look - ie with my eyes open this time

[ThePurplePrimer]

Application form now sent via email 

 

Thanks for pointing out the above to me :-)

[nick_bastable]

Application form now sent via email 

 

Thanks for pointing out the above to me :-)

welcome

 

you also have a choice of three area groups in Kent and East Sussex area

 

http://festiveroad.net/wealden2mmblog/

 

http://2mmkeag.blogspot.co.uk/

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/1024-canterbury-2mm-area-group/

[Caley Jim]

you also have a choice of three area groups in Kent and East Sussex area

And a welcome from me also.

 

There is also the Virtual Area Group (VAG), an email group on Yahoo for members only.  Instructions for applying to join it are on p10 of the Yearbook which you'll receive in your joining pack.  Be sure to quote your membership number (or your PP moniker) when you apply so I know who you are!

 

Jim (VAG co-moderator)

Edited January 18, 2016 by Caley Jim

[Izzy]

Application form now sent via email 

 

Thanks for pointing out the above to me :-)

 

Your more than welcome, I am sure you won't regret it. Nicest bunch of people you could wish to meet in my experience.

 

Izzy

Edited January 18, 2016 by Izzy

[ThePurplePrimer]

Can anyone suggest my first association wagon kit please

 

I would prefer a full kit - so everything included apart from the couplings. If its a full brass kit it will be my first so something suitable for a beginner.

 

My period is BR between say 1955 - 1965

 

I would prefer a van but a wagon is ok if you think thats best

 

Can you suggest something and let me know it's part number please

[Izzy]

Can anyone suggest my first association wagon kit please

 

I would prefer a full kit - so everything included apart from the couplings. If its a full brass kit it will be my first so something suitable for a beginner.

 

My period is BR between say 1955 - 1965

 

I would prefer a van but a wagon is ok if you think thats best

 

Can you suggest something and let me know it's part number please

 

It isn't really possible to get complete kits in the sense you mean in that you need to add wheels/bearings and buffers besides couplings. There are some body/chassis kits but mostly it's a case of individual bodies and chassis which are combined to produced the finished wagon. If you look on the 2mmSA website shop pages you will notice that many products have blue link symbols which give photo or info sub pages. These usually suggest which parts are needed to complete the body or chassis chosen and will copy what you select to an order form.

 

As you seem not to have constructed any metal/etched kits before - all the chassis are etched nickel silver of a fold-up and overlay construction - I would suggest that you start off as simply as possible by making chassis to suit plastic bodies. With your requirements the 2-566 two body BR standard van kit with the choice of 4-shoe or 8-shoe fitted chassis might seem a sensible option.

 

Izzy

[Guest bri.s]

I'm going to get a couple of 16 tonners for the first ones ,plastic body with etch chassis

although I have built up a couple of the coke hopper kits

If you press on the info icon at the side of the wagon you want it takes you to a page so you can add the remaining bits you'll need ie wheels ,buffers,bearings ,chassis and whatever else

 

Brian

Edited January 24, 2016 by bri.s

[Crosland]

If you look on the 2mmSA website shop pages you will notice that many products have blue link symbols which give photo or info sub pages. These usually suggest which parts are needed to complete the body or chassis chosen and will copy what you select to an order form.

 

There's also the Component Application Guide in the Yearbook.

 

Andrew

[nick_bastable]

Evening all

 

what are peoples thoughts and experience of fixing / attaching / aligning removable stock cassettes ? ideally a solution which leaves the main baseboard without any lumps sticking out when in transit / storage.  I estimate the cassettes to be no bigger than 12-14 inches  long 

[Caley Jim]

 

what are peoples thoughts and experience of fixing / attaching / aligning removable stock cassettes ? ideally a solution which leaves the main baseboard without any lumps sticking out when in transit / storage.  I estimate the cassettes to be no bigger than 12-14 inches  long 

My own cassettes fit in a slot in the baseboard and mate with short sections of the same Aluminium angle which forms the running surface and lower sides of the cassette.  Miniature bulldog clips provide both accurate alignment and electrical connection.   HOWEVER, our area group has experienced problems with the same arrangement not providing accurate alignment.  We found this to be due in part to small differences in the dimensions between the Al angle used for the connectors and that for the cassettes.  One of the ways we are dealing with this is to fit small 'aligners' cut from pcb or paxolin fitted between the Al angles on the baseboard and projecting a couple of mm out.   The cassette then slides onto this, providing precise alignment, both vertically and horizontally, leaving the bulldog clips only providing the electrical connection.

When i tested these on my own layout, I was so impressed by them that I have fitted them to all 5 cassette locations.  The photo shows the test one fitted on Kirkallanmuir.

 

 

This also shows how we dealt with a cassette which had been made with much wider Al angle (15mm as against 12mm)

 

HTH

 

Jim

[Izzy]

Hi Nick,

 

Don't know if the system I use might be of any use to you. Like Jim's the cassettes plug in, but mine is rather crudely made using my standard baseboard material of artists mount board glue/layered together, as are of course the baseboards. No doubt the design could be adapted for other materials. It's cantilever based in that the spring fingers hold the cassette down and make electrical connection. I usually allow between 3"- 6" to plug-in to the baseboard. The fingers are suitable thickness K&S strip filed/cut as needed. Hopefully the shots should explain it all.

 

 

 

 

 

The cassettes are 45mm outside,35mm inside, 25mm deep. I don't use them for storage ( trays in really useful boxes for that). The sleepers are old cut down 4mm/OO ones that match the Easitrac rail height. The rail ends are chamfered outwards to allow for any misalignment.

 

 

 

 

Smallest cassette is 12", then 18", and 28". The long ones are double ended for reversal and will take a class 24/37/47 etc and 4 mk1's. End stops prevent things rolling off when moving them about, and micro-switches on the double ended ones to prevent forgetting to fit a stop-block and everything taking a trip off the end to the floor when in use.

 

I have used them with three layouts so far. These shots are of the little Odds End. On the latest one under construction, Essex Road, a small end-to-end, I have used them combined with a sector plate at one end to save space.

 

However, I do find constantly having to change them to run trains a bit of a fag sometimes. I seem to spend much more time doing this than actually running the trains compared to when a more normal sector plate system is used. And you have to find somewhere to put the cassettes not used, especially when loaded with stock. I have now converted Odds End to using a plug-in sector plate which has proved much better overall. I may try and convert Essex road that way.

 

Anyway I hope the info is of use to you and anyone else.

 

Izzy

[queensquare]

My cassettes are broadly similar to Jim's other than I made up simple latches rather than use bulldog clips.

 

 

 

 

Jerry

[nick_bastable]

Jim / Izzy / Jerry thanks  for the help one further question

 

I can see how Izzy cassettes are support at least on part of the length  are the others also supported if so how ?  if it involves buiding a sub base to match the main board would I be better with a two or three row traverser ? 

[queensquare]

Jim / Izzy / Jerry thanks for the help one further question

 

I can see how Izzy cassettes are support at least on part of the length are the others also supported if so how ? if it involves buiding a sub base to match the main board would I be better with a two or three row traverser ?

 

I'm a bit confused - there has to be something to support the cassette or gravity will come into play. This is the board that I bolt on the end of the Wharf when it goes out on its own - Highbury essentially had the same set up at each end.

Whether you would be better with a traverser is a personal decision. On TM I have a train table made from an old record deck which I much prefer to the cassettes as it doesn't involve picking up the entire train but still allows it to be turned. A sector plate still requires the loco/brake van to be moved by hand.

 

 

 

Jerry

Edited January 26, 2016 by queensquare

[nick_bastable]

Jerry

 

that is what I expected I  was checking  if you deployed some sort of  pull out support (we  installed one of these on the area group plank)  although this solution is not suitable for the space available .

 

Still can not make up my mind how to proceed cassettes or traverser or as you suggest a  train table  which ever  all will require a sub base (oh joy more woodwork)

 

thanks again for your help

 

Nick

[Caley Jim]

I adopted cassettes as an alternative to a train table as I was finding myself with more stock and trains than could be accommodated on the train table.  My cassette system was designed for both operation and stock transport.  With the train table system I found that at shows it took me more time to put all the stock on the layout than it did to assemble the layout  and, at the end of the show, took more time to pack it away than it did to dismantle the layout.  On Kirkallanmuir I have cassettes specifically for trains of mineral wagons which have a piece of nail embedded at a strategic point near the end of the cassette.  These are slightly shorter than the slot in the baseboard, by 150mm.  In a corresponding postion below the slot is a fixed magnet.    I connect a 150mm cassette beyond this, drive the train in, reverse the loco when the dropper of the AJ coupling on the first wagon is over the nail with the magnet below it, the coupling uncouples and the loco is then driven forward onto the 150mm cassette.  The cassette with the train of loaded coal wagons is then turned round and transferred to the colliery branch cassette slot where another magnet uncouples the brake van.  The loaded wagons can then be drawn back into the interchange sidings and a rake of empty wagons taken up the colliery branch and pushed onto the brake van.  The cassette with the loco is then placed in the slot for the arriving main line, the rake of empties turned and coupled to it (once removed from the magnet the brake van becomes coupled) and that train is now ready to be brought in as a train of empties.  No handling of locos and/or stock ionvolved.

 

Hope the above is clear and not too convoluted.

 

Jim

Edited January 26, 2016 by Caley Jim