Jan W Posted January 1 Share Posted January 1 You’ll need a flangeway of 0.7mm minimum because N gauge flanges are approx 0.5mm wide. Jan 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon D. Posted January 1 Share Posted January 1 Microscope cover slides. There is an article pointing to an item on their forum in the latest Model Railroad Hobbyist about cover slides to model glass for cab windows etc: https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/modeling-windows-with-real-glass-12698690 Ebay search terms are given as 'microscope slide cover slips' or 'micro cover glasses'. However, there seems to be a huge range and variety. I'm pretty sure some 2mmFS modellers have mentioned using these. Any advice on size/thickness etc to get please? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted January 1 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 1 (edited) 5 hours ago, Simon D. said: Microscope cover slides. There is an article pointing to an item on their forum in the latest Model Railroad Hobbyist about cover slides to model glass for cab windows etc: https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/modeling-windows-with-real-glass-12698690 Ebay search terms are given as 'microscope slide cover slips' or 'micro cover glasses'. However, there seems to be a huge range and variety. I'm pretty sure some 2mmFS modellers have mentioned using these. Any advice on size/thickness etc to get please? easy to obtain as a example slides 0.13 to 0.17 thick however a b*gger to cut Edited January 1 by nick_bastable pps Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon D. Posted January 1 Share Posted January 1 Thanks so much Nick. One poster on the MRH Forum suggests very lightly scoring with a scalpel. Will try that! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted January 1 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 1 somewhere I have some glass slips from CPL intended for 0 ngauge but included a cutter well actually a stick you scrore the class with then it can be snapped. I see Squires do a diamond head glass cutter whether that is fine enough I dont know. A diamond stylus from a record player could also be an option. Ordinary steel shouldn't score the glass but tool steel can . Proper diamond scribes seem rather expensive but a tool steel scriber may be suitable. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon D. Posted January 2 Share Posted January 2 Many thanks Don I already have some scribers (loads on eBay) which I use to start off drilling. Will also give them a go when the slides arrive from China. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geordie Exile Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 (edited) Hi All I'm making my first attempt to re-wheel a loco, having bought a brand new Farish Class 24. The instructions in the Association's "Getting Started..." handbook are pretty clear, but I've fallen at the first hurdle. I think I've found the clip on the cosmetic bogie frame, but no amount of pressure and twisting seems to be budging it. As you can see, I'm already starting to chew this up. I'm pressing it in the direction of the red arrow, while trying to lift in the direction of the blue arrow. Before I mess it up completely, has anyone done this recently, and advise on what I should actually be doing? Cheers, Richard. Edited January 10 by Geordie Exile Typo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom s Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 (edited) 12 minutes ago, Geordie Exile said: Hi All I'm making my first attempt to re-wheel a loco, having bought a brand new Farish Class 24. The instructions in the Association's "Getting Started..." handbook are pretty clear, but I've fallen at the first hurdle. I think I've found the clip on the cosmetic bogie frame, but no amount of pressure and twisting seems to be budging it. As you can see, I'm already starting to chew this up. I'm pressing it in the direction of the red arrow, while trying to lift in the direction of the blue arrow. Before I it up completely, has anyone done this recently, and advise on what I should actually be doing? Cheers, Richard. Pull the whole bogie out of the chassis, the lever goes into the gap at the top which is inaccessible while it's in the chassis Edited January 10 by tom s Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom s Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 (edited) The top of the assembly is angled so just pulling it down by the sideframes will unclip it from the chassis, and nothing is hardwired between the two Edited January 10 by tom s 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom s Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 (edited) -quoted myself instead of editing, whoops- Edited January 10 by tom s Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geordie Exile Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 (edited) 2 hours ago, tom s said: The top of the assembly is angled so just pulling it down by the sideframes will unclip it from the chassis, and nothing is hardwired between the two Thanks, Tom. I guess the design has changed since (my version of) Getting Started was published. I'll give that approach a go. Update: @tom s It worked! It took quite a terrifying amount of tugging to remove the bogies, but I've got my first 2mmFS loco going backwards and forwards on my (appallingly laid) test track. Thank you! R. Edited January 10 by Geordie Exile Edited for update 3 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
damian Posted January 15 Share Posted January 15 In the absence of any better places to ask how long does it take the 2mm shops to respond? I placed a track order about a week ago and heard nothing. Its not that I need it in a rush just I want to know at least they have the order and it will come at some point, I have heard nothing back. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted January 15 Share Posted January 15 How did you pay? You should get an email requesting payment if you've opted to pay by PayPal. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
flubrush Posted January 15 Share Posted January 15 3 hours ago, damian said: In the absence of any better places to ask how long does it take the 2mm shops to respond? I placed a track order about a week ago and heard nothing. Its not that I need it in a rush just I want to know at least they have the order and it will come at some point, I have heard nothing back. Same here. I emailed an order for sleepers over a week ago to be paid for by Paypal. I received an email acknowledging receipt and stating that my order would be processed, but since then, nothing. I've tried emailing with no response and I resent the order today to see what happens. Jim. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
damian Posted January 15 Share Posted January 15 In that case I guess it’s a Christmas or busy thing so I will chill for a bit Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom s Posted January 15 Share Posted January 15 I placed my first 2 orders on thursday. Shop 1 posted a reply saying they will process it asap a few days ago, shop 3 sent the paypal invoice yesterday night for the money. Just to compare with others. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yorkshire Square Posted January 15 Share Posted January 15 (edited) Please bear in mind that while a shopkeeper might be able to acknowledge receipt of your order, they might not be able to fulfil it straightway due to other commitments. I would say that a turnaround time of 7-10 days is not unreasonable. All of the shopkeepers and most everyone who keep the Association going are volunteers. I'm sure you will all hear from Bill in the fairly near future - he's not been in touch to say there are issues. Tony Simms Sales Officer Edited January 15 by Yorkshire Square 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom s Posted January 15 Share Posted January 15 Aye, appreciate the work of the volunteers and no trouble with the timeframes, just a newcomer getting up to speed with how the system works. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted January 15 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 15 1 hour ago, tom s said: Aye, appreciate the work of the volunteers and no trouble with the timeframes, just a newcomer getting up to speed with how the system works. these questions are best aired on the VAG 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geordie Exile Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 I'm mulling over how best to combine a lever for wire-in-tube turnout operation with a polarity switch for the frog. Before I reinvent the wheel, does such a thing already exist somewhere, or does someone have a working design they'd be willing to share? Cheers, Richard. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 All mine have a projection on the crank at the turnout end which operates the arm of a microswitch. See centre right in this photo. (The other crank operates a catch point, so no crossing to change) Alternatively you could have the microswitch at the lever end, but that involves longer wiring runs. Jim 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 Like Jim I put the crossing polarity micro switch at the toe of the switch. (My frame is not wire in tube) 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nig H Posted February 1 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 1 (edited) 17 hours ago, Geordie Exile said: I'm mulling over how best to combine a lever for wire-in-tube turnout operation with a polarity switch for the frog. Before I reinvent the wheel, does such a thing already exist somewhere, or does someone have a working design they'd be willing to share? Cheers, Richard. Hi, I used a hacked servo (there’s a description on here somewhere) but with a DPDT switch instead of a DPST one. One side of the switch changes the crossing polarity at the same time as the turnout is changed via the panel switch. I was pleasantly surprised that it seemed to work well. I’ll try to find the description if you are interested. See my posts of 9th and 23rd March 2023 in the ‘what’s on my workbench’ topic. Nigel Hunt Edited February 1 by Nig H Update 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geordie Exile Posted February 1 Share Posted February 1 Thanks @Caley Jim, @richbrummitt & @Nig H. Some proper food for thought, especially as I'd been looking for a solution at the lever end rather than the turnout end. Much appreciated. Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocemitch Posted February 3 Share Posted February 3 (edited) What are people using for primer on etched kits etc, top coat would be enamel. ive tried an aerosol from my car resto collection, but I think the spray is a bit course for models. I seem to recal a discussion about certain aerosol brands, but not sure where. I could use my airbrush, but again not sure who’s paint. Edited February 3 by Velocemitch Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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