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On a dead flat line, wagon weight isn't a major concern. Bring in substantial gradients, such as we have on CF, and the effect of heavy wagons and carriages becomes obvious. I am very wary of fully etched wagon & carriage kits for that reason. They need lightening, if anything.

 

Tim

 

I think there is no one answer to this question. I have seen 2mm layouts where the wagons were very light, seemed to bounce along the track and destroyed any illusion of being a model of something that weighs several tons in real life. Perhaps imperfect track did not help with this. Which I feel is why people like to model in Gauge 1 or O gauge, there is much more feeling of weight.

 

So if I had a layout where trains were never more than 10 wagons, I'd make them heavier, just so long as my locos could cope. 50 wagon trains on gradients, then as light as possible.

 

Better start 3D printing those brake vans rather than etching!

 

Chris

Edited by Chris Higgs
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I think there is no one answer to this question. I have seen 2mm layouts where the wagons were very light, seemed to bounce along the track and destroyed any illusion of being a model of something that weighs several tons in real life. Perhaps imperfect track did not help with this. Which I feel is why people like to model in Gauge 1 or O gauge, there is much more feeling of weight.

 

So if I had a layout where trains were never more than 10 wagons, I'd make them heavier, just so long as my locos could cope. 50 wagon trains on gradients, then as light as possible.

 

Better start 3D printing those brake vans rather than etching!

 

Chris

 

True Chris much easier to add a bit of weight in a van than to remove excess weight. Even in 7mm I found adding extra weight improved the running of wagons but I never had the room for 100 wagon freights in 7mm  whereas in 2mm it would be a possible about the length of a garage I suppose.

Don

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I think there is a lot to be said for styrene/plastic cores with etches for the detail: especially with coaches. I made up some etched ECJS clerestories completely from metal. The next ones will just have the etched sides.

 

Tim

Edited by CF MRC
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thank you all for a most interesting discussion,  after much pondering I will start @ 5-7 grams initial test show those so weighted  are running better  :declare: 8 grams would be nice but unless  I fit loads in open wagons will be difficult 

 

thanks again

 

Nick

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I am going to paint my first kit-built engine (SECR Class C); the locomotive is made of N/S and the tender is brass. Apart from a good scrub with CIF and a toothbrush, is any other treatment necessary before applying the primer?

 

The locomotive will be finished in the Austerity Grey livery - can I use a black acid etch primer?

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Does anyone know the overall height of BH easitrac? Unfortunately my digital callipers have a flat battery(!) That'll serve me right for going high-tech! Trying to find the right thickness of brass strip for my off-scene areas - á la Copenhagen Fields...

Edited by iamjamie
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Does anyone know the overall height of BH easitrac? Unfortunately my digital callipers have a flat battery(!) That'll serve me right for going high-tech! Trying to find the right thickness of brass strip for my off-scene areas - á la Copenhagen Fields...

As near 2mm as makes no odds, according to my vernier callipers.

 

Jim

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Has the drop-in chassis conversion kit for the 64xx been released yet please? I can't see it in the shop listing.

Sort of. There isn't a single part number for the conversion kit, but all the bits are there. To quote from the Products page: "A set of coupling rods that can be used to convert the Farish 64xx to 2mm Finescale. Also required for the conversion are 3-221 bearings, 3-223 muffs and a 3-222 gear muff."

 

So you would need

1@ 3-224 - Etch for replacement coupling rods - Farish 64xx £1.50

6@ 3-221 - Replacement conversion bearings - Jinty Conversion Kit 3-700 £1.50

1@ 3-222 - Moulded gear / muff - Jinty Conversion Kit 3-700 £2.50

2@ 3-223 - Small muffs - - Jinty Conversion Kit 3-700 £0.75

 

Plus wheels and crankpins.

Edited by garethashenden
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The 2mm Sales Officer took the decision not to stock the 64xx parts as a complete 'kit' but rather to list them individually. We will eventually produce a list of what is required for each loco, but development work is still ongoing on a few of the components needed (e.g. tender wheels for the Fowler 4F etc.).

 

The 64xx conversion was announced in a recent newsletter and I believe that an article on the 64xx conversion will appear in the 2mm Magazine later this year.

 

Andy

 

(btw, to add a quick correction to Gareth's post, 3-222 is a gear/axle muff, not a conversion bearing)

Edited by 2mm Andy
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The 2mm Sales Officer took the decision not to stock the 64xx parts as a complete 'kit' but rather to list them individually. We will eventually produce a list of what is required for each loco, but development work is still ongoing on a few of the components needed (e.g. tender wheels for the Fowler 4F etc.).

 

The 64xx conversion was announced in a recent newsletter and I believe that an article on the 64xx conversion will appear in the 2mm Magazine later this year.

 

Andy

 

(btw, to add a quick correction to Gareth's post, 3-222 is a gear/axle muff, not a conversion bearing)

Oops, fixed.

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Has anyone finescaled a Farish N Class? If yes, what is involved?

John Greenwood has done a couple by turning the flanges off the Farish wheels and replacing them with 2FS rims. There are pictures in the North Cornwall thread linked in my signature below.

 

The Ns have the same split chassis system as other recent Farish steamers so could be done with the replacement bearings etc. All it needs is some clever sole in the Association to do an etch for replacement coupling rods and motion!

 

Jerry

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John Greenwood has done a couple by turning the flanges off the Farish wheels and replacing them with 2FS rims. There are pictures in the North Cornwall thread linked in my signature below.

 

The Ns have the same split chassis system as other recent Farish steamers so could be done with the replacement bearings etc. All it needs is some clever sole in the Association to do an etch for replacement coupling rods and motion!

 

Jerry

 

I might be able to look at the valve gear if anyone can point me in the direction of a good drawing. I have already done some for the Duchess and they are all pretty similar, just need to scale the parts appropriately. I won't be purchasing an N myself though so I would rely on someone the measure up the coupled wheelbase just to check it is the same as the prototype.

 

Apologies for the lack of fish puns in this post. They all seem to have been taken.

 

Chris

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John Greenwood has done a couple by turning the flanges off the Farish wheels and replacing them with 2FS rims. There are pictures in the North Cornwall thread linked in my signature below.

 

The Ns have the same split chassis system as other recent Farish steamers so could be done with the replacement bearings etc. All it needs is some clever sole in the Association to do an etch for replacement coupling rods and motion!

 

Jerry

 

The possibility of doing an etch has been discussed, and a couple of the committee have bought the Farish N class models, so I'm sure it will appear in due course when one of us plucks up the courage to dismantle the models to see exactly how the etched parts could be fitted to the loco. I think an etched pony truck (and possibly a simple tender chassis) would be needed as well as replacement motion (that's what Nigel Hunt has done with the Farish conversion etches he designed).

 

Andy

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The possibility of doing an etch has been discussed, and a couple of the committee have bought the Farish N class models, so I'm sure it will appear in due course when one of us plucks up the courage to dismantle the models to see exactly how the etched parts could be fitted to the loco. I think an etched pony truck (and possibly a simple tender chassis) would be needed as well as replacement motion (that's what Nigel Hunt has done with the Farish conversion etches he designed).

 

Andy

 

Thanks Andy, that's great news. Im reasonably competent at nailing stuff together but etch design is beyond me - certainly at the moment.

 

Jerry

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Here's a question regarding the use of Nigel Lawton's 6 volt motors. They are supplied with a 'dropper' resistor to drop 12 volts to 6 volts (presumably wired in series in one of the motor leads?).

 

Why then, has the Dapol pannier, which I now have in a hundred bits before me, have two resistors - one in each lead? Or do they have nothing to do with dropping the voltage?

 

David

(Electrically challenged)

Edited by Kylestrome
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Here's a question regarding the use of Nigel Lawton's 6 volt motors. They are supplied with a 'dropper' resistor to drop 12 volts to 6 volts (presumably wired in series in one of the motor leads?).

 

Why then, has the Dapol pannier, which I now have in a hundred bits before me, have two resistors - one in each lead?

 

David

(Electrically challenged)

 

Spreading the power consumption by the resistors which need to dissipate the heat.?

 

Don 

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