RMweb Premium DavidLong Posted January 5, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 5, 2018 Not if you are using an RSU. Paste is essential in that case. I use the Carrs which is excellent, and it comes in two different melting points, although the days when you can get it for 11.00 are a distant memory. I keep a bit of stainless steel guitar string to hand to unblock the nozzle as needed. https://www.phoenix-paints.co.uk/products/soldercreams Chris Not quite, Chris. When assembling layers such as on a Harris 16T mineral wagon I tin the the appropriate surfaces with ordinary leaded cored solder (had the reel for years!) and fluxite. Pin the layers together with bearings, as Stephen suggests, and zap the whole lot with the RSU. The amazing part is that, even with good amount of solder, it never seems to leak out and gives a really solid joint. Needless to say, after using the Fluxite, a good solid scrub with a toothbrush and cif is necessary but the neatness of this solution never ceases to amaze me. I use the same method for your excellent buffer stop etches. I have never got on with the various solder creams as I've never got good joints, it dries out and it always seems to get everywhere. Yes, I know that it won't show under the paint but I'm of the 'no-solder soldering school' and something about the mess offends me! David 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 2mmMark Posted January 5, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 5, 2018 Most of my soldering is with solder wire, liquid flux and a soldering iron. I seem to have developed a knack for making it work so like a one-club golfer, it's what I invariably use. When I do resort to solder paste, my choice is Nealetin. I bought a pot at a model engineering show a few years ago. Doesn't dry out noticeably and flows very well, giving a good joint. Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacathedrale Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 I've got replacement wheels for some Farish wagons that I've bought, but one of the most egregious faults are the ladders and handrails on the kit: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Graham-Farish-373-037A-Bulk-Aggregate-Hopper-PGA-ARC-Procor-N-gauge/362168025892?hash=item5452e58324:g:QJwAAOSwke9aGJjB compared to real life: http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/arcpga Are there any strips of this kind of thing I can buy in bulk like one can with open web truss (i.e. http://modelshop.co.uk/Shop/Strip-Shape/Open-Web-Truss/ ) ? Or is this a case of doing it with brass wire, very, very carefully? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
D869 Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 General answer... Ladders are simple enough to get, for example Model Signal Engineering do an etch. It's very fine but also very easy to distort. I'm sure there are other sources of generic laddering but none specific come to mind right now. You will probably find that handrails will need to be made to measure from wire to fit your vehicle. If you are doing a lot then it would be worth making some simple jigs from card or wood or whatever comes to hand to ensure that you can make them repeatedly to the right size. Then I remembered this, which may sugggest a more spcific answer for these hoppers... http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/1033/entry-10767-wagons-roll/ Regards, Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 2mmMark Posted January 5, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 5, 2018 I've got replacement wheels for some Farish wagons that I've bought, but one of the most egregious faults are the ladders and handrails on the kit: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Graham-Farish-373-037A-Bulk-Aggregate-Hopper-PGA-ARC-Procor-N-gauge/362168025892?hash=item5452e58324:g:QJwAAOSwke9aGJjB compared to real life: http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/arcpga Are there any strips of this kind of thing I can buy in bulk like one can with open web truss (i.e. http://modelshop.co.uk/Shop/Strip-Shape/Open-Web-Truss/ ) ? Or is this a case of doing it with brass wire, very, very carefully? Etched ladder strip should be reasonably easy to find. The "M" handrails could be made in a simple jig where the main rail is bent around a shaped piece of wood which has a hole drilled to hold the centre vertical in place while it's soldered. Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin1985 Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 The TPM kits are no longer widely available, but it might be worth asking Bernard via DM (he's a regular on RMWeb) whether he has any of the etches left that he could sell you. The end result is much more impressive, but very delicate and vulnerable (one of mine took a dive off the workbench - managed to straighten the damaged end out reasonably well, but definitely still noticeable that its damaged, unfortunately). Justin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacathedrale Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 I'll have a butchers for the etched ladder strip. The TPM kits are no longer widely available, but it might be worth asking Bernard via DM (he's a regular on RMWeb) whether he has any of the etches left that he could sell you. The end result is much more impressive, but very delicate and vulnerable (one of mine took a dive off the workbench - managed to straighten the damaged end out reasonably well, but definitely still noticeable that its damaged, unfortunately). Justin Hi Justin, I'm not sure if this was addressed to me, but I already have the wagons (or rather, they are being posted to me) - I just need something for the rails/ladders Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 Not quite, Chris. When assembling layers such as on a Harris 16T mineral wagon I tin the the appropriate surfaces with ordinary leaded cored solder (had the reel for years!) and fluxite. Pin the layers together with bearings, as Stephen suggests, and zap the whole lot with the RSU. The amazing part is that, even with good amount of solder, it never seems to leak out and gives a really solid joint. Needless to say, after using the Fluxite, a good solid scrub with a toothbrush and cif is necessary but the neatness of this solution never ceases to amaze me. I use the same method for your excellent buffer stop etches. I have never got on with the various solder creams as I've never got good joints, it dries out and it always seems to get everywhere. Yes, I know that it won't show under the paint but I'm of the 'no-solder soldering school' and something about the mess offends me! David Must be indivdual skills. My joints with solder cream always come out looking great, whereas with 'normal' solder they look like a dog's dinner. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
D869 Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 The TPM product is (was?) a detailing pack specifically for this wagon. It contains etches and castings specifically to replace the klunky moulded bits with more delicate representations while retaining the basic shell of the wagon. Availability of the TPM product might be more of a challenge as others have said. First port of call would be to try to contact Bernard Taylor directly, otherwise you'll be hunting to see if vendors still have old stock or else individuals with stuff in their gloat box that they are willing to part with. Alternatively you can make your own replacement bits using generic ladder etches and wire. Good luck. Regards, Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
D869 Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 Forgot the links... http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/user/1877-bernardtpm/ http://www.tpmodels.co.uk/ - this says he is closed for business but has an email address that you could try. Regards, Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardusH Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 Another vote for the Carrs solder creams for RSU work, but as well as increasing the price, it looks as though Phoenix have changed the composition of both solder creams - they are now listed as lead-free. I think they are just mis-labelled on the Phoenix site. I bought some Carrs 179 Solder Cream from Phoenix about a couple of months ago which was declared as as lead-free in their specifications, but it's identical to the product I bought from C & L Finescale a couple of years ago (code C1016 Sn 62/Pb36/Ag2) Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MrSimon Posted January 5, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 5, 2018 Hi all, This might be a daft question... I'm looking at getting the J94 chassis kit from shop 3 (3-640) I've had a look at the instructions and the list of other bits, then in the instructions says to solder in the bearings - I can't work out which bits these are! I'm assuming they're not on the list (if they are and I've misread it please heckle) but 3-112 drive bush looks similar. Are these what I need? Cheers Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacathedrale Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 Forgot the links... http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/user/1877-bernardtpm/ http://www.tpmodels.co.uk/ - this says he is closed for business but has an email address that you could try. Regards, Andy Many thanks, I've sent him a note just on the off-chance he's got any kicking around. I picked up some Ratio ladder etch so if nothing else I can replace the ladders, but a proper detailing kit would be fab. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mim Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 Hi all, This might be a daft question... I'm looking at getting the J94 chassis kit from shop 3 (3-640) I've had a look at the instructions and the list of other bits, then in the instructions says to solder in the bearings - I can't work out which bits these are! I'm assuming they're not on the list (if they are and I've misread it please heckle) but 3-112 drive bush looks similar. Are these what I need? Cheers Simon I have the same chassis kit on my shopping list. My understanding is that you need six frame bushes 3-113 for the wheels to go through and four drive bushes 3-112 for the idle gear spindle that does the two stage gear reduction and two support each side of the motor worm gear. The association wheels have brass axles, so go in the pbhosphor bronze frame bushes. The idle gear will need a split spindle from 1.5mm silver steel rod 3-110 and run in brass drive bushes. Te idea is that you don't have the same material for both bush and spindle ideally. Brass ones are cheap to make p-bronze are expensive, so are only used on the brass wheel axles where they are best suited. If you are only building one chassis, then I suppose you could use one 10 pack of P-bronze bearings for everything, but for more chassis it works out cheaper to use different materials. Notbuilt one yet, so needs a sanity check from those that have! Mim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelcliffe Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 Hi all, This might be a daft question... I'm looking at getting the J94 chassis kit from shop 3 (3-640) I've had a look at the instructions and the list of other bits, then in the instructions says to solder in the bearings - I can't work out which bits these are! I'm assuming they're not on the list (if they are and I've misread it please heckle) but 3-112 drive bush looks similar. Are these what I need? 3-113 in phos bronze for the wheel axles (wheels are brass, and bearing should therefore not be brass). 3-112 in brass for any steel shafts such as the motor and intermediate gears. - Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted January 6, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 6, 2018 I have the same chassis kit on my shopping list. My understanding is that you need six frame bushes 3-113 for the wheels to go through and four drive bushes 3-112 for the idle gear spindle that does the two stage gear reduction and two support each side of the motor worm gear. The association wheels have brass axles, so go in the pbhosphor bronze frame bushes. The idle gear will need a split spindle from 1.5mm silver steel rod 3-110 and run in brass drive bushes. Te idea is that you don't have the same material for both bush and spindle ideally. Brass ones are cheap to make p-bronze are expensive, so are only used on the brass wheel axles where they are best suited. If you are only building one chassis, then I suppose you could use one 10 pack of P-bronze bearings for everything, but for more chassis it works out cheaper to use different materials. Notbuilt one yet, so needs a sanity check from those that have! Mim Must admit I just use the p-bronze bearings throughout, at £4.00 for ten the expense seems negligible. Trying to remember to use different bearings for different locations would simply confuse this bear of little brain! Jerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 (edited) Must admit I just use the p-bronze bearings throughout, at £4.00 for ten the expense seems negligible. Trying to remember to use different bearings for different locations would simply confuse this bear of little brain! Jerry The brass drive bushes are also considerably larger than the phosphor bronze frame bushes and I suspect that they wouldn't fit the chassis etch without a lot of filing or reaming of holes. IIRC, ,you need 10 bushes for the J94 chassis (I have one to do sometime), so one pack of the 3-113 phosphor bronze frame bushes is all that is required. Andy Edited January 6, 2018 by 2mm Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 I think they are just mis-labelled on the Phoenix site. I bought some Carrs 179 Solder Cream from Phoenix about a couple of months ago which was declared as as lead-free in their specifications, but it's identical to the product I bought from C & L Finescale a couple of years ago (code C1016 Sn 62/Pb36/Ag2) Richard Thank you Richard - that's good to know. I'm helping on the 2mm Roadshow at the CMRA Stevenage exhibition next weekend and Phoenix are on the list of traders, so I will check then and perhaps stock-up with another syringe of the 179 solder cream. Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 Must admit I just use the p-bronze bearings throughout, at £4.00 for ten the expense seems negligible. Trying to remember to use different bearings for different locations would simply confuse this bear of little brain! Jerry All my chassis (the J94 included) are designed to use the smaller p-bronze bearings eveywhere. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 (edited) Thank you Richard - that's good to know. I'm helping on the 2mm Roadshow at the CMRA Stevenage exhibition next weekend and Phoenix are on the list of traders, so I will check then and perhaps stock-up with another syringe of the 179 solder cream. Andy Worth checking. It was my recollection that C&L had shifted to a 'lead-free' composition a while ago and it is not Phoenix who made the change. However the label spec seems to suggest otherwise, in which case it should not be mis-labelled. Chris Edited January 6, 2018 by Chris Higgs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mim Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 (edited) Worth checking. It was my recollection that C&L had shifted to a 'lead-free' composition a while ago and it is not Phoenix who made the change. However the label spec seems to suggest otherwise, in which case it should not be mis-labelled. Chris Indeed. 179 solder used to be an alloy of Tin, lead with 2% silver. It is a eutectic alloy, so all melts at 179C with no pasty range of temperatures. A lead free version made up of tin, indium, bismuth and what have you would almost certainly not be eutectic and will behave differently when soldering with some pasty region of mixed liquid and solid metal. Either they have changed the alloy to a lead free version, in which case you'll need to experiment to see how it performs when soldering compared with the old version, or they have been rather naughty and mis-labelled it as Lead free when it is not, or it no longer melts at 179C. No problem with still selling lead based solders, just so long as it isn't used for commercial electronics (with a range of exceptions). Jen Edited January 6, 2018 by Mim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crosland Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 I agree with the others the stuff in a syringe is most reluctent to come out without applying excessive force not ideal. That is certainly true of the Multicore stuff, but is not universally true. For electronics work, I use Chipquick from Farnell, which is also much cheaper. They all use standard syringes and you can get replacement nozzles from Farnell quite cheaply. They are colour coded by size. I use the pink ones. When they clog you can clean them out with a piece of wire of appropriate size. The contents of the syringes last for ages and do not dry out in my experience. My current one is two years old and still OK, kept at room temperature. I have use it for etched kits but, as stated above, the flux is not as active. Andrew Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crosland Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 The brass drive bushes are also considerably larger than the phosphor bronze frame bushes and I suspect that they wouldn't fit the chassis etch without a lot of filing or reaming of holes. I pointed this out a few years ago for one of the chassis kits, but I don't know if the parts list was ever updated. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacathedrale Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 Hi guys, - I'm not a Yahoo Groups user so don't have access to VAG, but I can't seem to find the password to the members section of the 2mm Association website in my newsletter, yearbook or magazine - am I missing something obvious? (or; is it even worth getting my garters in a bunch over?) - Is all OK with Shop1? I'm not particularly concerned but emailed an order over a few days before Xmas and another email a few days ago and haven't heard a peep. I'm not rushing and definitely not wanting to cast anyone in a bad light at all - it is the festive season after all - but I would like to have a broad idea when I could expect to hear back? All the best, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mim Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 Hi guys, - I'm not a Yahoo Groups user so don't have access to VAG, but I can't seem to find the password to the members section of the 2mm Association website in my newsletter, yearbook or magazine - am I missing something obvious? (or; is it even worth getting my garters in a bunch over?) - Is all OK with Shop1? I'm not particularly concerned but emailed an order over a few days before Xmas and another email a few days ago and haven't heard a peep. I'm not rushing and definitely not wanting to cast anyone in a bad light at all - it is the festive season after all - but I would like to have a broad idea when I could expect to hear back? All the best, Page 19 of the 2018 yearbook for the website user name and password. Mim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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