Another Bachmann Junior Loco

[relaxinghobby]

Answers to a couple of questions;

 

Yes I swapped the plastic gears over by simply sliding it off, putting steady pressure to with a bit of wood that had a slot in it to go around the axle. I marked the end of the axle and wheel by scratching across the paint so I could replace the wheel in the same position after swapping the gears.

[relaxinghobby]

 

 

 

The Hornby Nellie body is a few mm too low so some sort of packing will be needed to lift it up to the correct height.

I think the boiler looks too fat, perhaps it could be replaced with one with a smaller diameter.

[relaxinghobby]

 

The Bachmann junior body is just clip together with these parts. A sort of kit in reverse. I remember reading somewhere on another website that people longed from a new range of plastic glue together kits to extend the range of the old Airfix and current Dapol kits, whether the model railway market could support the production of any new kits I don't know. If you included the wagon and coach kit makers and the new process of new RTR bodies being produced in several sub sections, like this one. Do we not already have these as such kits?

 

[Tiptonian]

 

The Hornby Nellie body is a few mm too low so some sort of packing will be needed to lift it up to the correct height.

I think the boiler looks too fat, perhaps it could be replaced with one with a smaller diameter.

 

 

Don't worry about Nellie's fat boiler. Take a look at these.

 

http://www.alangeorge.co.uk/Images_I-M/Image-19_1909_LocomotiveNo40%27KingGeorge-V%27_DowlaisBuilt-1907.jpg

 

http://www.alangeorge.co.uk/Images_A-H/Dowlais_Engine_No44-Pant_AtDowlais_1938_JohnOwenCollection.jpg

 

Actually, I realize you probably know all about these. It's just my shameless method of bumping your excellent thread. Or, is it a plot by a certain small Hornby loco to get in on the "bashing" act?

 

Thanks again for a brilliant thread.

[Corbs]

Don't worry about Nellie's fat boiler. Take a look at these.

 

http://www.alangeorge.co.uk/Images_I-M/Image-19_1909_LocomotiveNo40%27KingGeorge-V%27_DowlaisBuilt-1907.jpg

 

http://www.alangeorge.co.uk/Images_A-H/Dowlais_Engine_No44-Pant_AtDowlais_1938_JohnOwenCollection.jpg

 

Actually, I realize you probably know all about these. It's just my shameless method of bumping your excellent thread. Or, is it a plot by a certain small Hornby loco to get in on the "bashing" act?

 

Thanks again for a brilliant thread.

 

I never did realise that the Hornby 00 'starter' tank was based on a prototype! Albeit the wrong wheel arrangement - but then it looks like the Bachmann chassis with smaller wheels could do the trick?

Edit - no, hang on, just realised the 0-4-0T is a genuine loco and not a model. Well I'll be!

 

http://www.alangeorge.co.uk/Dowlais_Works_locomotives.htm

Edited November 18, 2013 by Corbs

[Tiptonian]

On the same page, look at this one, No.12, England.

 

http://www.alangeorge.co.uk/Images_A-H/Dowlais_Locomotive_No12-England_Adj.jpg

 

For an 0-4-0ST, it has a long wheelbase. A possible use for the Hornby 0-4-0 chassis?

[Poor Old Bruce]

On the same page, look at this one, No.12, England.

 

http://www.alangeorge.co.uk/Images_A-H/Dowlais_Locomotive_No12-England_Adj.jpg

 

For an 0-4-0ST, it has a long wheelbase. A possible use for the Hornby 0-4-0 chassis?

Or the Bachmann Junior 0-4-0ST (Percy-ish) chassis.

[Corbs]

p6290149small.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

They have arrived and they do fit. As an experiment I plonked this this Polly body on it.

Another possible conversion ?

 

p6290164small.jpg

 

This is probably a very n00b question but I hope to do this conversion myself, and was wondering how you actually changed the wheels?

Many thanks

[relaxinghobby]

 

 

 

Changing Wheels on Bachmann junior ( and any other similarly constructed chassis )

 

This is a more detailed account of changing the wheels over. First off, I tried to fit some Romford -Markit wheels but their one eight inch diameter axles are too fat to go in the Bachmann chassis wheel slots. So I guessed that a replacement wheel set from the Bachmann USA web site from their USA saddle tank may fit.

 

Yes they do and they smaller, ten millimetre diameter wheels and come as a set with couple rods.

 

The gears and coupling rods are wrong and so have to be changed for the Bachmann UK Billy or Junior ones. The coupling pins screw out, a small pair of pliers can be use to unscrew them holding the pliers at right angles to the face of the wheels to grip the bolts ends .

The wheels are released from the chassis by unscrewing the keeper plates small fixing cross head screws then the wheel set will drop out.

The hardest bit is swapping the gear cog over, first measure it's position from each end of the axle, then scratch a line across the wheel centre you are going to remove, use a corner of a file or steel pointer.

 

Next get a bit of plywood thin enough to fit between the wheel and the cog and then cut a slot just wide enough to slide the axle down. I made two parallel saw cuts and snapped the middle bit out leaving a slot. This wooden tool can use to hold the wheel and axle over an opened vice jaw while the axle can be punched out with a blunt nail as long as it is narrower than the axle. In effect the wood takes the force of the blow or you can make a small gear press tools from a small G-clamp.

Then the piece of wood can be used to push the cog off, it is a push fit. Push the original cob onto the new wheel set axle and drop wheels into the chassis block slots.

 

The picks up are delicate strips of brass and need to be gentle bent to rub on the rims of the new wheels. It's a bit of a fiddle getting everything back in place, it may be necessary to make new pick-up, I have not got any further than my last picture with my conversion, should I go with the Triang-Nellie side tank conversion or some kind of saddle tank, I am undecided, I am trying to finish other stuff first.

 

If it seems complicated it is so I've began to make a set of photos of how to do it and with what tools etc.

[relaxinghobby]

I'll try and show how I changed the wheels by giving an example, different chassis but same approach.

 

 

 

 

 

Here my tool for holding a wheel whilst pressing out the axle, a bit of plywood with a slot in it,on legs a little table.

 

 

 

Press tools on the left the posh version from Eileen's Emporium, works for motor worms and small wheels. On the right one adapted from a G clamp.

 

 

For this demonstration I'm changing the wheels on this Hornby Schools class 4-4-0, I'm swapping the big ones for 20mm Hornby 9F to make a chassis for a tank loco. 3 cross head screws hold the keeper plate on.

 

[relaxinghobby]

 

 

 

Typical of this type of chassis, a metal block with slots in it for the wheels, two alternative positions for the front wheels, little yellow brass bearings fit into groves. This has 2 layered keeper plates one holdes the little brass strip contacts the outer one has some brake detail.

 

 

 

 

So as to keep the quartering correct, before dismantling the wheels I've scratch a groove across the end of the axle and wheel hub, it's very feint but it is there.

[relaxinghobby]

 

 

 

G clamp press set up and ply strip also useful

 

 

 

Just to see what fits I've tried a Romford/M/MMarkits 1/8 th inch wheel set, it fits without the bearings, the axle is a bit rusty.

[relaxinghobby]

 

 

 

To remove the big Schools wheel I had to peel away the plastic wheel hub cover. There is now a build up of parts on the work bench so it's time to assign them to little pots or bags to save loss and confusion.

 

 

 

 

 

Before removing gear from axle measure it's position. I had hoped that the 20mm 9F wheels would fit onto the end of the Schools axles being that they are both Hornby but no the splines on the ends do not match, I'll have to use the 9F axles which are plain so the driven one will have to have the gear position roughen up by rolling the edge of a fill across it, don't file you are just braking the surface of the chrome plating. Also the odd sized bearings will have to go on the smaller wheel.

[relaxinghobby]

The big wheels from the Schools and the small from the 9F, the big bearings are also from the 9F, I must

remember to put the small bearings on the 9f wheels.

[relaxinghobby]

Drive out, from the Schools wheel set, the axle from the cog using a nail and hammer.

 

 

 

Rolling the axle against the edge of a file to roughen the area where the gear is to go. The 9F axles

are too smooth and the gear too loose a fit otherwise.

[relaxinghobby]

 

 

 

Don't forget to fit any bearings before the cog gets stuck in place. I've used Locktight Stud and Bearing fit from the motoring world, it's a sort of slow acting super glue. You could use a super glue gel if you have any but, practice assembling the gear and axle before you commit to super glue as it set very quickly.

 

 

 

 

Second attempt 24 hours latter, I had managed to let some Locktight run into the bearing which had stuck so I had to free every thing up. Any way the gear was not fixed solidly enough so the rolling file was applied again and a secondlocktightingdone. This time a bit of paper was forced over the axle to stop the gloop running into the bearing again.

[relaxinghobby]

Stay tuned for reassembly and testing of new chassis configuration........

[Corbs]

This is brilliant, thank you!

[AndyJH]

This a inspirational thread, keep up the great work

[relaxinghobby]

 

 

 

I can claim partial success with my conversion, this Hornby example is not going as well as the earlier conversion of the the Bachmann 0-6-0 chassis. The problem is that the hole in the cog on the axle is slightly bigger than the new axle that I have transferred it to and my trick with the edge of the file to roughen up and maybe even make the axle slightly thicker has not worked. When testing the re-wheeled chassis, the torque of the motor just unstuck the gear cog and spun it around the axle, the wheels remained stationary. I had hoped that using parts from the same manufacturer would have meant that all the parts would be interchangeable. The good news is that this means the motor is nice and powerful but I must find a better way of fixing the cog.

 

 

 

So onward, the 9F wheels have metal bushes with threads that can take either Hornby screw in crank pins ( see rear wheels ) or Romford/Market ones   ( see front wheels ). So this will give me a choice of coupling rods to use, Hornby 8ft 6inch or 34mm ones or etched ones from one of the small producers. I'll see what I can find.

 

The photograph also shows Hornby's arrangement for a decoder in the tender.

 

Under the wheels of the loco you can see the original pick-ups, these will work with the new smaller wheels, I just cut new slots for them in the plastic keeper plate so that they go behind and rub on the backs of the metal tyres.

[Butler Henderson]

The postal issue has been resolved on the Bachmann US web site with it quoting 12.16USD postage to the UK. As the 0-6-0ST.wheelset is 12.50USD I ordered two sets of them which on my credit card has equated to £23.34, one wheelset would presumably have come out around £15.50. Delivery took 9 days, only a couple of days slower than it takes Hattons to get an order across the Pennines.

[OliverSR]

Here is my effort and I have slightly modified the boiler fittings but didn't have the conviction to change the cab or the wheels, however it is a reasonable representation of the prototype and is good enough for me. This is the first attempt I have made at lining with single lines on the footplate and front so I still have much room for improvement but this was only meant to be a cheap project.

Hope this is of interest to some of you.

OliverSR

[relaxinghobby]

The postal issue has been resolved on the Bachmann US web site with it quoting 12.16USD postage to the UK. As the 0-6-0ST.wheelset is 12.50USD I ordered two sets of them which on my credit card has equated to £23.34, one wheelset would presumably have come out around £15.50. Delivery took 9 days, only a couple of days slower than it takes Hattons to get an order across the Pennines.

 

Perhaps we should call this hobby “railway modeling and parts acquisition” ?

 

Tracking down and waiting for parts or spares, waiting for a desired kit to become available or just some logistical problem of ordering and paying for some small but essential part can take ages and need much more thought and effort than originally imagined, can take up a lot of or modeling energy.

 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

 

Well done OliverSR on your repaint, the lining is nice and straight and suits the colour scheme well.

[James Harrison]

Here is my effort and I have slightly modified the boiler fittings but didn't have the conviction to change the cab or the wheels, however it is a reasonable representation of the prototype and is good enough for me. This is the first attempt I have made at lining with single lines on the footplate and front so I still have much room for improvement but this was only meant to be a cheap project.

Hope this is of interest to some of you.

OliverSR

 

I like that a lot.  I've got one too, to convert into the same loco (albeit in Met livery).  Before I do anything with it I'm looking at how I can convert the cab to the proper Peckett example without having to completely rebuild it.

[Poor Old Bruce]

I like that a lot.  I've got one too, to convert into the same loco (albeit in Met livery).  Before I do anything with it I'm looking at how I can convert the cab to the proper Peckett example without having to completely rebuild it.

 

Try just flattening the roof profile and filing the opening for a start. See how you get on.