3 link Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Hi Guys, As the title says could you please give me some advice concerning thinners for Acrylics. ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest baldrick25 Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 I use just a small amout of 'ironing' water ie de-ionised, or Tamiya acrylica thinners for the really best jobs. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsv1000r Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 try going into your local pharmacy & asking for a bottle of isopropyl alcohol, they should be able to order you a bottle, if they don't have it in stock, superb as an acrylic thinner Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellicoe Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Not all acrylics are water-based (Tamiya is a case in point) so if the manufacturer recommends its own thinners, you should use that, especially for air brushing. Otherwise, use ironing water and in either case, wash your brushes in tap water. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xerces Fobe2 Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 With good quality acrylic paints I have never had the need to thin them! Xerces Fobe Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsv1000r Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Not all acrylics are water-based (Tamiya is a case in point) so if the manufacturer recommends its own thinners, you should use that, especially for air brushing. Otherwise, use ironing water and in either case, wash your brushes in tap water. isoprope works superbly with tamiya's acrylics far cheaper than thir own brand, I've used it for the past twenty years with excellent results through airbrushes, winning several IPMS national championships Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumblestripe Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 For Vallejo and Games Workshop acrylics I use water and W&N Acrylic Flow Enhancer in a 20:1 mix. You can add isopropanol to water in a similar way but I find the Windsor and Newton product superior. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
halfwit Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 De-ionised water, sold for car batteries and irons, for Humbrol and Revell, and for Tamiya and Railmatch I use their own brand thinners. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pugsley Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Don't use Tamiya thinners or IPA with non alchol based acrylics though, as it effectively curdles them. It definitely has that effect on Vallejo acrylics and possibly Railmatch, although I've never tried that. I'd always use the Tamiya brand thinners with their paints, but use water with a drop of screenwash in to thin both Vallejo and Railmatch acrylics. HTH Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PhilH Posted July 11, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 11, 2011 but use water with a drop of screenwash Neat screenwash works well ( our American friends swear by, not at, it) - and no, it doesn't turn white paint blue. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted July 11, 2011 Author Share Posted July 11, 2011 Thanks for the prompt replies Guy's, well that's certainly given me something to think about. I have always been an Enamel man up to now with the air brush, but from what I hear of the lack of fumes and being easier to clean, I'm going to give acrylics a go. . All the best, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
burgundy Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 ....... from what I hear of the lack of fumes and being easier to clean, I'm going to give acrylics a go. . All the best, Martyn. Martyn I should be interested to hear how you get on. I have been trying to work out how to use acrylics with an airbrush to weather a loco. I have messed around with some of the Games Workshop inks, but the effect has not really been right. A write up of any proven techniques would be welcome. Best wishes Eric Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted July 12, 2011 Author Share Posted July 12, 2011 Martyn I should be interested to hear how you get on. I have been trying to work out how to use acrylics with an airbrush to weather a loco. I have messed around with some of the Games Workshop inks, but the effect has not really been right. A write up of any proven techniques would be welcome. Best wishes Eric Hi Eric, By all means, if you give us a week I will do a write up as to how I got on and maybe a photo or two. ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted July 13, 2011 Author Share Posted July 13, 2011 Well as luck would have it I got a payed cancelled shift at work today , so this have given me time to get acquainted with some Railmatch acrylics. First I went to 4 Chemist's to try and find some of that Isopropyl to use as thinners to no avail, they either never heard of it or said it was to " Hazardous " to keep in stock. So thanks goes to Pugsley and Phil H for their idea of " Screen wash " so far I would say the stuff is amazing and also cheap to buy, I brought 5ltrs of the stuff . Well I am very impressed so far, I had a quick play on some scrap paper first, to tune in the Airbrush to how I like it and I must say you can get a very fine controllable mist patten just as easy as enamel. I was that comfortable with it that I have even put the first weathering coat on to a 42xx that I have nearly finished, see pictures ( no shooting me down in flames this is just a first coat ). I now need some more info if possible, I finish all my loco's with a satin varnish so while I was down the shop I brought some Railmatch satin acrylic varnish. Do I still need to thin this varnish down ? Is it easy to clean out of the airbrush after use just using water ( this I find hard to believe )? And any idea of the drying time ? I know Phil H of this parish does not much like these grand old ladies from the Welsh Valleys, as he bears the scars and blisters on his arms from driving them , but what do you reckon Phil, a bit of brake dust and sleeper grime and a quick polish of satin varnish should bring her to life . ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
halfwit Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 Do I still need to thin this varnish down ? Is it easy to clean out of the airbrush after use just using water ( this I find hard to believe )? And any idea of the drying time ? I usually spray some white spririt through the airbrush then strip it down a give it a thorough clean with Badger airbrush cleaner after using acrylics. A bit overkill perhaps but acrylics can set hard and be tough to shift. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium spamcan61 Posted July 13, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 13, 2011 Well as luck would have it I got a payed cancelled shift at work today , so this have given me time to get acquainted with some Railmatch acrylics. First I went to 4 Chemist's to try and find some of that Isopropyl to use as thinners to no avail, they either never heard of it or said it was to " Hazardous " to keep in stock. ATB, Martyn. Although it's not particulalry cheap, Maplin sell it:- http://www.maplin.co.uk/isopropyl-alcohol-28994?ordercode=RE71N Despite the picture, RE71N stock code is a can not an aerosol. Then there's Farnell:- http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/displayProduct.jsp?sku=1206536&CMP=e-2072-00001000 Then there's always eBay of course, about half Maplin price:- http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/IPA-ISOPROPYL-ALCOHOL-ISOPROPANOL-1-LITRE-99-9-pure-/220795921671?pt=UK_BOI_Medical_Lab_Equipment_Lab_Supplies_ET&hash=item3368766507 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted July 13, 2011 Author Share Posted July 13, 2011 Thanks Guys for the prompt replies, and one further question if I may, sorry two . How quick does this acrylic dry ( I did not want to prod it ), and I did not test it first but it seems fine to spray straight on top of Halfords grey primer ( no reaction so far, fingers crossed ). ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Gwiwer Posted July 13, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 13, 2011 For brush work I have used Tamiya diluted with their own brand thinners and JoSonjas (water-based) acrylics diluted with tap water. Only just starting with air-brushing but local wisdom has it that the Josonjas work fine with tap water though de-ionised can improve the flow when doing really fine work. Rule 1 of airbrushing = clean thoroughly and immediately what ever you have been using; don't give the paint a chance to go off. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PhilH Posted July 13, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 13, 2011 I know Phil H of this parish does not much like these grand old ladies from the Welsh Valleys, as he bears the scars and blisters on his arms from driving them , but what do you reckon Phil, a bit of brake dust and sleeper grime and a quick polish of satin varnish should bring her to life . ATB, Martyn. Horribly lifelike.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest baldrick25 Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 Anyone looking for acetone, I bought a bottle from Home Bargains stores for 99p. Its sold in 150mL opaque/clear plastic bottles next to the 'pink' nail varnish remover , and sold as artificial nail and tip remover, and has a light purple label around the middle. Its described as 'Pure Acetone' on the ingredients section, so it may not be to BP specifications for medical treatment, but should be fine for paint thinning. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted July 13, 2011 Author Share Posted July 13, 2011 Hi, Thank you PMP for the info, so far I am quite impressed with the change to Acrylics, being that I am old school and was brought up on Humbrol enamels . I am using around 35 psi through the compressor would that be about right ? And thank you Phil H, I take that as a complement B). ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
halfwit Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 About 20-22psi works for me, for both acrylics and when I occasionally use enamels. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted July 14, 2011 Author Share Posted July 14, 2011 Hi Guys, Thanks for the info, regarding paint I suppose I have kept to Humbrol and Railmatch as I have two suppliers close by, namely Squires and the Engine shed (Gaugemasters). As for the psi for Acrylics I thought it best at 35psi, as I heard somewhere that if you use anything under 30 psi the paint can dry on contact ? Paul could you explain why you use 20-22psi, as I'm a newbie when it comes to these Acrylics although I am more than happy with the results so far. ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
halfwit Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 Paul could you explain why you use 20-22psi, as I'm a newbie when it comes to these Acrylics although I am more than happy with the results so far. Sorry Martyn but I have no idea why, it just works for me! I wish that I could give a better answer than that! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted July 14, 2011 Author Share Posted July 14, 2011 Hi Paul, That's OK mate, I appreciate you giving your time to try and help out . ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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