Nortonian Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 I started this build on the old forum some time ago. Rather than transfer all the chaff over, I have decided to re-start the thread here but from the tender tank up first as its unseen territory, then go back to the chassis. I have not yet settled on an engine number but know that the tenders were pretty much identical to each member of the class. Any slight alterations required upon finding the right loco, can be dealt with at that time. So first up the tank bottom. This has only two fixings of 6BA bolts, but will also have two for the inner chassis fixings. More on that later. Next the basic components for the tank itself. These are cut from 0.010" nickel. Holes are ready drilled for handrail knobs and tank lifting eyes. The main tank inside faces are riveted on the extreme edge as this is the fixings for the beading. Rear tanktop supports are also fixed to the rear coalspace division plate. More views tomorrow. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nortonian Posted November 26, 2009 Author Share Posted November 26, 2009 This next photo shows the tank top fitted with the water dome and support strips to the tank rear and coal division plate. I try as much as possible to hide any points of fixing where I can. The small hole in front of the filler dome is the position of the tank filler. This is a brass turning which will be detailed first with hinges and latch before fixing to the top. The beading to the rear face of the coal division plate is flat unlike the half round elsewhere. Now is the best time to fit this. I anneal the brass first, then gently tease it into shape. Some positioning support strips and angles are sweated onto the base-plate. Great care is taken when cutting out the tank parts in making sure they are square, this relieves the stress of getting it to look right later on. The two sides and rear are now soldered together, trial fitted to the tank base-plate before sweating in place. All nice and square now and soldered in place. The handrail knobs are also fitted at this stage whilst accessible. Its starting to take shape now but you must try and think ahead to alleviate any potential pitfalls later on in restricting access with the iron. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
60B Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 Ian, you know you still HAVE to build a layout??? lol You must have like 8 arms to build all these locos from scratch. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nortonian Posted November 26, 2009 Author Share Posted November 26, 2009 Ian, you know you still HAVE to build a layout??? lol You must have like 8 arms to build all these locos from scratch. Hello Paul, The layout is well advanced in the planning and prep stage, I am not worried, are you ?. A J27 build thread will appear in this parish soon, followed by an L1. Oh, and a Brakevan too !. After that, there will be track and a signalbox, but all only as cameos until the build gets well into its stride when all will be revealed. Kindest Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
60B Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 Hello Paul, The layout is well advanced in the planning and prep stage, I am not worried, are you ?. A J27 build thread will appear in this parish soon, followed by an L1. Oh, and a Brakevan too !. After that, there will be track and a signalbox, but all only as cameos until the build gets well into its stride when all will be revealed. Kindest Ian I'm always worried, I've only just came to planning but I've got the senic board and some stock. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 ...You must have like 8 arms to build all these locos from scratch. They don't call him Octopussy for nothing Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nortonian Posted November 26, 2009 Author Share Posted November 26, 2009 They don't call him Octopussy for nothing Yes , you can`t beat a good scratch, be it eight arms or two ! More photo`s imminently. Can I just say whilst we are at this light hearted moment, I do tend to chuckle at some of the comments on these threads, especially when it comes to soldering. I know we all have our own way which works for us, but sometimes you would think that it `was a black art`, and one that cannot be learnt. Not so. Practice, practice, practice. Find a combination that suits you. No wonder some people are put off. I question what some folk are actually soldering together by some of their comments. This tender build is constructed from 145 solder and Fry`s powerflux in the yellow tub. Now if it can stand 100 PSI for copper pipes and fittings, I am damn sure it will work on toy trains, yeh ?! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 Hi Ian, Thought I would just pop in and say a brief hello as your obviously on a mission, do you ever sleep !!! Not much to report my end except the replacement smokebox saddle for the 42xx arrived today opened it to find Britains favourite courier have still not understood the meaning of fragile !!!! So after another phone call hopefully I can have a replacement by Saturday. Used my new (second hand) lathe last night it was like being back at school all the memories from the metal workshop . Anyway keep up the good work, All the best, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nortonian Posted November 26, 2009 Author Share Posted November 26, 2009 Hello Martyn, Well you are a step ahead of me if you are lathe equiped. I cannot get access to mine at present. Sleep ?, well I do get my head down after a good days work scratchbuilding. Very satisfying knowing you have built it all ones self. Sorry I cannot help you out with the smokebox saddle. Now then, before moving on, I`ll just open this bottle of beer. This next photo shows the rear tanktop fitted in place along with the rear coal division plate strengthening strips. These are not pieces of angle, but 3"x1/4" strips welded in place. Next we have the component parts cut out for the front of the tender. The lifting strengthening plates are now fitted as well as the half round bead. Easier to do now than when the coalplate is in position. The back face of the coal door area is strengthened by pieces of angle and a quadrant of plate to support the shelf above the doorway. Next up I`ll show how I made the coalspace doors and the tool cupboards. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nortonian Posted November 27, 2009 Author Share Posted November 27, 2009 Coalspace doors. To make the doors, I mark and cut out one door from a piece of suitable strip. I align it next to the adjacent door and sweat the two together using the door stop on the rear face as a guide. Next I drill the holes for the two handles and the latch. These are then fitted in place along with the latch itself. The doors are then cut free from the strip and soldered in position to the bulkhead. I did`nt document the middle tool cupboard, but I have the small one which will be fitted to the left of the centre one. I`ll show the making of the cupboard next. I am of course a few steps ahead of you, so I`ll finish the coalspace whilst you ingest all of the above. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atso Posted November 27, 2009 Share Posted November 27, 2009 Ok, I've ingested and digested the above - more please!!! Seriously though that some incredible modelling there, can't wait for the next instalment! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nortonian Posted November 27, 2009 Author Share Posted November 27, 2009 Ok, I've ingested and digested the above - more please!!! Seriously though that some incredible modelling there, can't wait for the next instalment! Thankyou Steve, Last installment for today will be before 12:00 as I am off to Wakefield show tonight. Regards Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold DaveyH Posted November 27, 2009 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 27, 2009 Ian May I ask what tools you use to cut the sheet brass? I'm really enjoying this thread - great skill Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nortonian Posted November 27, 2009 Author Share Posted November 27, 2009 Okay, so I`m running a bit late. Got trapped in Tesco`s carpark trying to get out. You would think Christmas was tomorrow never mind four weeks away. Hi there Cornerman, Nothing special going on here, just a piercing saw, a ruler/scribe and a keen eye. A guillotine would speed things up and I understand that if Metalsmith`s get enough requests, then he may do another batch of his machines. Fingers crossed. Now then moving on as time is of the essence. I make the top and two sides from a folded piece of strip, the front/doors are scribed onto another piece of the required size. Next, the sides are soldered to the front from behind. The overlapping door strip is sweated onto the middle of the pair of doors. I then take a length of 1.5mm x 0.002" n/s strip, score it several times down the middle, sweat on a piece of 0.3mm brass wire to act as the hinge. The hinge is made as a long strip like a piano hinge, cut into suitable lengths and sweated onto the door fronts . Once complete, the top of the toolbox is formed with its characteristic flange at the front edge, again from a length of suitable strip. The top is then sweated into position. Trimmed to length and fitted as required to the bulkhead thus. Well that`s all folks !. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale7JB Posted November 27, 2009 Share Posted November 27, 2009 Splendid stuff...! I'm still to start my Scratchbuilt N7, but anytime soon after the K2 is finished.. JB. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted November 27, 2009 Share Posted November 27, 2009 Splendid stuff...! I'm still to start my Scratchbuilt N7..... N7/4? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale7JB Posted November 29, 2009 Share Posted November 29, 2009 N7/4? Yes indeed... that's the one.. JB. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nortonian Posted November 29, 2009 Author Share Posted November 29, 2009 Hi JB, Thankyou for your kind words. I too will look forward to seeing your N7 scratchbuild. I get sick of looking at my own stuff !. Next up on this build is the coalspace. This first photo shows the rear slope and floor support. Please excuse the lack of clarity. These next two pieces are the sloping sides. Here`s another view of the bulkhead. It was loose in the previous photo`s. All sweated into position now. I sometimes photograph with the flash switched off as it reflects on the nickel too much, hence the warm tones and making it look like brass. Whilst I make up the fireiron tunnel and other parts to complete, I will add the chassis photobuild photographs and round off with the finishing touches later. As I have a few builds on the go, and the forthcoming baseboard and track threads this week, I intend to take turns on each thread, so progress will be made pro rata. Keep you all on your toes. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted November 29, 2009 Share Posted November 29, 2009 Yes indeed... that's the one.... Let me know when that starts. Have the Connoisseur 4mm etch for the N7/3, which I want to convert to N7/4....... Have found some distorted measurements in the cab and bunker area already Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nortonian Posted November 30, 2009 Author Share Posted November 30, 2009 Here`s the first few photo`s of the chassis build. First up, the basic component parts laid out after being cut and drilled. Next, the buffer housings are drilled on the four corners for the bolthead detail. The front buffer housings are prepared ready to be fitted to the beam. The boltheads are made from 1.0mm A/F Hex bar. Of course these are now ready made available from Scale Hardware in the US. The basic chassis frame is now assembled. This is as much as I have time for today, but I will post more here tomorrow. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale7JB Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 Did you make those buffer housings yourself ? They're very nice..!! What drill do you use? I'm after a small engineers pillar drill myself, and I have seen a few available from places like Axminster tools, but I'm wondering just how good they are, as in, with a small drill bit in, will the chuck be accurate enough to not spin the small drill bit at funny angles if you see what I mean.. JB. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nortonian Posted December 1, 2009 Author Share Posted December 1, 2009 Hi JB, I bought my cheap Pillar drill from Wickes when they first appeared on the scene. It has had some considerable use as I fitted a cross vice underneath. I maintain it regularly and whilst it is not 100% accurate in its workings, once fitted with a pin chuck, I can comfortably drill 0.4mm holes without breakage. The buffer housings were turned on my lathe quite some time ago and I made a small stockpile, enough for about a dozen engines. In the new year, I will invest in a new lathe and milling machine and produce lots of turned items that are getting harder to purchase and probably make them available to scratchbuilders. Kindest Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale7JB Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 So do you think something like this would be suitable ? I'm thinking of my christmas wish list http://www.axminster.co.uk/recno/7/product-Axminster-SIEG-Axminster-SIEG-X0-Digital-Readout-Micro-Drill-366133.htm together with... http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axminster-Compound-Table-for-Micro-Drill-376146.htm JB. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nortonian Posted December 1, 2009 Author Share Posted December 1, 2009 So do you think something like this would be suitable ? I'm thinking of my christmas wish list http://www.axminster...rill-366133.htm together with... http://www.axminster...rill-376146.htm JB. JB, All these cheap drilling, milling, lathes are made in the Far East for a number of british suppliers. The spec is altered/improved for certain traders that wish to supply an upgraded version of the same product. Axminster Tools are one such supplier. I would be happy with anything from their range. Some of the same small lathes under the Clarke label(cheapest), need the crosslide handle wound one full revolution for the table to move. That`s no good ,too much slack !. Usual thing , `you pays yer money`. I know Tony Reynalds bought an X-Y table form Proxon, I was there when he bought it. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pugsley Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 Looks OK, depending on what you wanted to use it for. I wouldn't necessarily buy it from there though - Axminster are a bit pricey. You can buy the same item, cheaper here: http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories/Milling-Machines/Model-X0-Micro-Mill HTH Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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