Scale7JB Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 Thanks guys, it's only going to be used for standard scratch building, i.e. no boring of cylinders for 5" gauge engines that's for sure.. I can't think of anything in 7mm where I would need more than an available 100mm travel... can you ? JB. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nortonian Posted December 1, 2009 Author Share Posted December 1, 2009 Thanks guys, it's only going to be used for standard scratch building, i.e. no boring of cylinders for 5" gauge engines that's for sure.. I can't think of anything in 7mm where I would need more than an available 100mm travel... can you ? JB. Yes, milling out Pacific frames. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-UnitMad Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 ... I do tend to chuckle at some of the comments on these threads, especially when it comes to soldering. I know we all have our own way which works for us, but sometimes you would think that it `was a black art`, and one that cannot be learnt. Not so. Practice, practice, practice. Find a combination that suits you. As one who does tend to describe my own work as "Comedy Soldering" :icon_redface: , and can only marvel at what the real masters such as Ian can achieve, I do agree with the above comments. Having come into Etch brass kits fairly recently despite 30 years in the hobby, I have found soldering to be quite straightforward really and not quite the "Black Art" it may seem, so long as you follow good advice, keep things clean, and use the right materials for the job at hand. I recommend paying attention to a Demonstrator at a Show to see how it's done, and asking questions. Chances are these days that a Demonstrator at a Show will be an RMweb member, too..!!! ( *Thinks* dikitriki at Wolverhampton 2008..!! :icon_thumbsup2: :icon_wave: ) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nortonian Posted December 2, 2009 Author Share Posted December 2, 2009 Now then, where were we ?. The buffer housings are fitted onto the bufferbeam with all their bolthead detail on show. The hole for the coupling hook is also sized. At the front end, the buffer housings again have been fitted. Looking the right way up, you can see that the intermediate buffer housings have projected through the beam. This is to locate the square housing plates to be slipped into position easily. These will be shown a little later. Next we need to make the inner chassis. The parts are marked and cut out as shown in the next two photographs. I will show assembly of these cut parts tomorrow ,along with the well tank and home made horn guides. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nortonian Posted December 3, 2009 Author Share Posted December 3, 2009 Here`s the next bit. The inner chassis frames are now soldered together using the full length spacer. The rear axle as you can see is fixed for stability. This next photo shows the component parts for the well tank. This is also used as frame stretchers to keep the chassis sides parallel to one another. The ends of the well tank are fixed in place and the tank wrapper is curved to fit. Before adding the wrapper, the frames are tried and drilled whilst inserted into the tender chassis. Next the wrapper is placed in position to check all is okay. In this next installment, I will show the making of the hornguides. This is a similar principle to all my hornguide manufacture, whether it be loco or tender. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nortonian Posted December 7, 2009 Author Share Posted December 7, 2009 As promised, here is the next installment regarding the hornguides and axleboxes. The rear axle is fixed using the usual 3/16" brass bushes. The other two axles use 8mm sq blocks with a rebate around the perimeter. This allows the block to slide vertically and is held square via the guides. So first thing is to drill 4no 6.5mm holes in some 0.028" N/S sheet marked off in squares. Next, we elongate the holes to the edge of the guides, 6.5mm in parallel. We now need to make the sides of the guides. This is made from 3x0.5mm N/S strip. The ends are folded over the hornblock and made square. Once all soldered in place, a 1.4mm hole is drilled in the centre of the top of the guide and tapped 10BA. The completed hornguides are then sweated in place. Now, because of the speed required to construct the J71 for the end of this week, it is unlikely that any more photo updates will be placed here, so you may wish to watch the J71 thread for some action. I will let you know when I am back to work here. Kindest Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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