Experiments with N Gauge ballast

[MikeTrice]

It all started simply enough. I wanted to create a basic N Gauge T-Trak module reflecting Swiss practice using Kato Unitrack, however I did not particularly like the plastic moulded ballast section with over high shoulder profile.

 

I started by adding an in-fill between the tracks, padding the outside with 1/32 cork and adding Evergreen section to represent the concrete wiring troughs:

 

Ballasting using Green Scene GS/408 ballast followed by first applying neat PVA to the sloping sides and infills, covering with ballast, leaving to dry a while, then upturning the board to remove the surplus ballast. Once everything was set, I then added further ballast to bring up the profiles and this time applied a thin layer of ballast over the sleepers then carefully brushed the surplus away with a VERY soft brush. Once everything was ready I used a Green Scenes sprayer to mist with a 70/30 mix of water and isopropal alcohol unitl the ballast was saturated. Finally Woodland Scenics scenic cement was applied with a pipette. This is how it worked out:

(OK there is some stray ballast that needs picking off).

 

So far so good. The problem is that Swiss ballast is typically grey and I have had great difficulty reproducing this in the past (never finding a satisfactory solution). So why use the Green Scene product? Well it applies well, looks reasonably scale and I hoped would look like weathered ballast. In hindsite I should have carried out some experiments with odd pieces of track first before applying it to my fist T-Trak module.

 

A number of experiments followed the results of which I present in the next post.

[MikeTrice]

I mentioned previously that I had already carried out some experiments with ballasting in the past. I did try a lot of materials and products but did not feel the necessity to retest them all for this exercise. What follows are my experiences of a selection of products.

 

Before starting I hunted around London to try and find a sample of the very clean grey type of ballast as favoured by the Swiss. This was found at Cannon Street:

Although predominently grey that are slight variations in shade between individual pieces.

 

The first sample used Bathing Sand from a pet shop. This comes in a largish box for around £5. It has a good texture but is predominently beige in colour:

 

Next uses Carr's 2mm Light Grey ballast. Texture is good, and it is quite a nice product to apply. Although the grains in the tub did appear a sort of shade of grey, this disappeared as soon as the product was dampened:

 

Next up was Woodland Scenics Fine Grey mix. Colour was quite close to what I wanted however it did not prove the easiest to apply:

[MikeTrice]

Continuing from the earlier photos I had seen numerous mentions of Chinchilla Dust as a good ballast. Although I did not feel the earlier Bathing Sand good colour wise I decided to try again with a different product. This time using Chinchilla Dust (Sepiolite) bought as an enormous bag from Pets at Home. I thought I had died and gone to heaven when I opened this product:

Too good to be true? Well sort of. Sepiolite is a form of clay so when the product is dampened it softens and swells slightly. After glueing during the drying process it shrinks again and can leave small cracks which you can just see in the photos.

 

No experiment would be complete without using real Granite ballast, in this case Modeller's Mate Extra Fine. The problem with real Granit is that it looks superb as it comes but once wetted always takes on a darker shade:

The first photo is a classic example ofthe camera overcompensating for the exposure and the shade on the original is considerable darker. This is more obvious in the send photo.

 

Hornby produce a series of ballast products under their SkaleScene scenic products. This is a real gravel of some form but does not discolour when wetted. Unfortunately the colours are a little unnatural and too even:

 

Finally I have seen numerous references to the use of Silver Sand as a ballast material. In my case I felt it was too fine and the wrong colour:

[MikeTrice]

What now? What do you do if you need a ballast colour that is not produced in model form? Around the South East a lot of ballast, although predominently grey also has a lot of pinkish pieces. I quite like the Green Scene product and the Carr's product but had issues with the supplied colour. Could I colour then to my own requirements?

 

Taking a mixing palette a squirt of acrylic paint is added. In this instance Rowney System 3 Beige:

 

Add some Carr's ballast to the paint:

 

Start stirring, the ballst and paint will start clumping:

 

Add more ballast and keep stirring until the resulting mix is evenly distributed and light and fluffy:

 

Tip out only a piece of tin foil and allow to dry:

 

Once dry the resulting mix is put in a small mortar and pestle and ground to seperate the grains.

 

Here are some of the colour variations produced:

Buff/beige

 

Light grey (actually using white paint):

 

Warm grey:

 

And finally that elusive pink shade:

 

Now I had the basic shades I could combine them together to provide a subtle blend. For Swiss I just used the two grey shades:

 

Finally I felt I should try the same approach using Granite to see if coating the grains would stop the discolouring when wetted. Yes it does work, however breaking up the painted grains is not quite as easy as with the Carr's product:

 

So there you have it. My own preference for the moment is the coloured Carr's product although Green Scenes should work as well.

 

Comments and suggestions welcome.

[Tricky-CRS]

Ecellent work, very useful I read through again at some point. Very interested that it stopped granite changing shade.

Thank you

[Lee m22]

Fantastic thread. If I'd have seen this two weeks ago, it would ahve saved me having to try several tests myself. It would have also got me to raid the degu cage for their dust bath!

 

I'm now lookingto how to produce a heavily weathered and overgrown ballast for my old yard area...have you tried anything like this or got any suggestions on what to try?

 

 

Regards

Lee

[MikeTrice]

I have not tackled heavily weathered ballast as the Swiss, being Electric, tend not to let it get too bad.

 

My personal preference in all things is to produce "as new" and then weather it afterwards. This to my view appears more natural.

 

Ballast tends to pick up various dirt, rust etc in general use, and for that I have always sprayed the weathering coat over the complete ballasted track or for N dry brushed along the sides of the rails onto the ballast.

 

The interesting variation is where weathered ballast has been mixed with new and reutilized. For this I would produce a batch as described, then give a slightly thinned weathering coat using the same technique. Break it up and mix with new and Bob's your Uncle.

 

I am currently awaiting a fresh supply of Ballast from C&L to apply to a T Trak module and will be attempting a degree of weathering.

 

Thought I would add the following photo showing a real mix of grey, pink, and reused weathered with original weathered in background. Taken at New Cross.

 

[Lee m22]

Thanks for the replay and the pic. Your picture does actually look like what can be seen on the WCML south of bletchley atm, and I was myself considerign how to replicate the look of the old and new ballast together.

 

Regards

 

Lee

[Karhedron]

Thanks for the comparative pictures, it is really good to see how these different products actually look in-situ.

[MikeTrice]

If I'd have seen this two weeks ago, it would ahve saved me having to try several tests myself.

Did you come to any conclusions yourself from your experiments? Any major successes/failures. All information is helpful.

[Lee m22]

Well nothing as detailed as what you've done above really, but I've tried three ballast media now and was focusing on the overall weathered effect of the track in the scene.

 

In short (or long) this is what I know and learnt!

 

First attemt is using Peco ballast.

 

 

My ususal approach to track is once it's down, to spray the whole of the track with a dark mud colour. I used humbrol no.29 here. It's a quick way of doing things and gets rid of the nasty black sleepers, while givvign an effective look to the rails. A track rubber quickly clears the rail heads, though I'm careful to mask point blades and use a touch up pot to get any missed areas.

 

I've used brown Citadel washes to vary the colour between the sleepers and rails, and in this case, I applied varying layers of the badab black wash to get the diesel stains, which worked quite well.

 

Rapidly highlighted is the poor scaling of the ballast though. So next I was suggested fine sand.

 

 

In this case I applied the sand before I sprayed the track. I used brushes to meticulously place the sand so it's not on the rails or sleepers, then glued down. I have always used pva/water/soap mix applied with a pipette. The good thing with the sand and peco ballast is that it sucks up the glue/water and doesn't move about too much, so it's quite easy to do ang get good results.

 

I then sprayed the track and sand. The downside with this is the sand needs painting, and especially on a large layout, It would take a very, very long time. In my pic, I've just watered down some gw greys and tried to apply a quick coat. In hindsight, looking at your suggestions regarding pre-colouring the media before applying would probably be a much more favourable route, if the sand took the paint well enough after being ground back down. (im slightly sceptical about sand workign so well this way but haven't tried it so can't knock it)

 

Scale-wise, I think it looks good, but when you put this in a yard scene for example (like me) I think you may become hard pressed to set a contrast between a decent grounc cover and the ballast, aside colour.

 

My third test was using woodland scenics fine ballast, as it came highly recommended by several forum members, and I was rather generously donated a a couple of tubs by one! I mixed up a batch of about 70% grey - 30% brown ballast to get a bit of colour variation.

 

 

 

I'd sprayed the track with the dark mud colour, as before, prior to adding the ballast. My first attempt was a disaster! I spent about 30 minutes applying the ballast to the 4 inches of track, then when trying to glue in the ususal manner, I found the ballast seemed to repell the glue. It formed 'globules' of glue/water that the balast stuck to, before the mixture settled, spreading ballast everywhere!

 

Second attemt, I desided to spray the ballast with water. I used a spray bottle we brought to train the puppy (she wasn't impressed when it came out of the cuboard!) I used a very fine misting spray to prevent it from moving the ballast, although a few bits did move. I then used a heavily watered down pva mix. this still moved the ballast a bit, so I had to ajust the ballast immediatly after glueing. From the test sample, I think a second application of glue mix would be needed.

 

As I've pre-sprayed my ballast chipping off bits stuck to the sleeper then means following behind with a touch up pot. It the worst case, this would defy the point of spraying in the first place. I'm in two minds as to if it's better to ballast then paint the track afterwards, or if to do as I've done in the past, and invest the time in keeping the ballast off the track before it adheres.

 

As I'm after dark and weathered ballast, I used Citadel wash 'Devlan mud' over half the test piece to see what the effects were. In the pictures, you can see the contrast between the two. I think I may try using a lighter wash, as I am quite keen to get the diesel stains worked into the ballast, and I don't want that detail lost if the rest of the ballast is too dark.

 

I've still got a couple of things to try out, to get the rigth effects in the ballast, as well as the track. I'f I learn anything else helpful, I'll add it here.

 

The one thing I do find very useful is having the right tools to work the ballast with.

 

 

I apply the ballast by using a piece of feld up paper, and I apply it quite heavily each side of the track, but lightly between the rails (easier to add more than to remove it). Once on, I use the flat brush to roughly spread the ballast in the centre and then, at an angle, stipple along the outer side of the rails. I find this spreads the ballast nicely, and forms the shoulders upto the sleepers quite well. I use the small brush to move the ballast around between the sleepers and (particularly with the woodland scenic ballast) removing stray/exessive material. The ballast tends to just stick to the brushes so doesn't need to be handled heavily.

 

Thus dispensed, is my entire knowledge of ballasting to date!

 

Hope it's helpful

 

Regards

 

Lee

[MikeTrice]

Very helpful thanks. I too tried spraying the track all over first. Unfortunately with Unitrack the ballast layer is so thin the brown can show through. Like you I now use a soft flat brush specially bought (and reserved) for the job.

 

I apply neat PVA to the sides of the sloping edges of the unitrack and then pour ballast onto it, then tip off. Once dry I then apply ballast between the sleepers and level with the soft brush. When I am happy with everything I then pre-wet the ballast using a fine misting bottle bought from Green Scene which contains a mix of water and isopropal alcohol (70/30) and keep going until it looks really damp. Finally I drop Woodland Scenics Scenic Cement on using a cheap plastic pippette running the end along the rails and letting the glue dribble out. When pre-wetting ballast when using Peco track I don't think I wet it enough.

 

Progress on my initial T Trak module is slow. The tracks are in place and I have adjusted the profiles with various thicknesses of cork sheet. Just glued the first lot of ballast to the track sides and am writing this while the glue dries.

 

This morning I made up a large batch of mixed grey ballast to use, and took the opportunity to try some colour variations. I mentioned earlier that pink ballast seems elusive and I was not happy with the first sample produced as reported earlier. Had another go using a different paint base and I am much happier with the result:

 

Following earlier comments I also experimented to see if I could create a dirty ballast colour as in the photo from New Cross. This is what I came up with:

Not 100% convinced of the last one.

[Lee m22]

I'm glad to see there are some similarities in our techniques....I must be doing something right then! lol

 

Obviously we are both damping down the ballast, but you mention isopropal alcohol. What's its purpose? I've not come across it before.

 

The pink looks good! If you do get to testing it alongside a second tone, as in the New Cross pic above, that would be very interesting to see!

 

There was a massive pile of fresh ballast in the Bletchley sand & gravel depot last time I passed. I imagine its gone now, but if it's still there, I'll grap a pic. It was certainly quite pink!

 

Regards

 

Lee

 

 

 

[MikeTrice]

When you pre wet the ballast you will find that the addition of a wetting agent will improve absorption. Most people use a small quantity of washing up liquid in the water, but another alternative is the Isopropal Alcohol mentioned. Doing this the water and subsequently the glue, spreads better, with less chance of surface tension moving the ballast grains.

 

Managed to lay ballast and apply glue. Now waiting for it to go off before cleaning it up.

[Lee m22]

Right, thanks for the reply! Makes sense now.

 

The ballast is looking good there. I see what you mean by the thin coat of ballast, as you mentioned in relation to pre-spraying the track.

 

Regards

 

Lee

[MikeTrice]

Why on earth is he resurrecting this topic? Surely he found something that satisfied him?

 

Well things have moved on and some new products have appeared so it seemed only reasonable that I give them a go.

 

First off, Dapol N Gauge Ballast. Did you know Dapol did ballast? No, neither did I until I discovered the fact during various Google searches. Ordered a "bucket" direct from the Dapol site, and it arrived very quickly (well done Dave). I say "bucket" because you do get a LOT for your money:

 

 

You can have any shade you like, as long as it is beige (sorry Henry). Unfortunately to my eyes it looks too large for N:

 

 

The next candidate is a strange one, Olive stones from the 4D model Shop, in this case in a natural colour. I have never got on with sand, however to my eyes these do not look bad in terms of texture and size:

 

 

 

 

Finally a new product Polák. These are a range of fine ballasts in a number of colours all of which strike me as being in natural shades, including that elusive "pink" shade I was striving for earlier. Great product reasonably priced, however be warned that postage charges take this through the roof so not for the faint hearted. Shame because I think it really looks the part:

 

 

 

 

In the past I have always followed conventional wisdom and spread the ballast loose, brush into place, spray with wet water, then drizzle diluted PVA on it. Results have been variable especially with some of the lighter products and I could not help thinking there must be a better way.

 

Various forum members have suggested a technique of spreading neat PVA glue between and around the sleepers and then pouring the ballast on top. I tried this, but could never get it neat enough using a brush. Today I acquired a Fine Tip PVA Glue Applicator:

 

 

What is not obvious from the photo is this has a fine stainless steel microbore "nozzle". Fill it with neat PVA and it can be applied relatively simply by running the nozzle around the gap between the sleepers.

 

I started by working along one side:

 

 

Turn the track around and repeat for the other side, and filling in the middle:

 

 

Finally the ends of the sleepers are filled in ready for the ballast to be applied. In this case I have pre-ballasted the sloping sides of the Kato track, but have found this is not necessary:

 

 

Although it may seem tedious, by the time the traditional approach has had the ballast brushed into place there is not much in it. The technique is certainly more controllable.

[MikeTrice]

An alternative shade of Polák:

 

 

 

 

[MikeTrice]

Three more shades of Polák:

 

[Scott B]

That looks superb. I might have to flash the cash !!!

[cromptonnut]

Interesting stuff this Polak... where do you get it?

[MikeTrice]

http://www.polakmodel.com/en/vyrobky/main/Ballast-scale-N-/

 

Also available on ebay. Just search for Polak: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/Trains-Railway-Models-/479/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=polak

 

Interestingly they also do a fine "dust" that I hope will represent the finer gravel typically found in the cess, and a nice shade of 1mm static grass fibres.

 

Delivery was very quick, and the supplier very helpful. Note that with ebay purchases subsequent post charges are reduced.

 

Good luck, let me know how you get on.

[cromptonnut]

I'm actually modelling in 7mm at the moment and although their website doesn't seem to list O gauge stuff there is some on Ebay - at the moment I have 4mm 'granite' for the yard but would be nice to have something different for the main line. Have ordered this: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120899681612 and see how it comes out, worth a try for a fiver.

 

However, the 6mm "greenish" grass fibres could be quite handy too...

[cromptonnut]

The postman bought the Polak 7mm ballast I ordered a week or so back today, so I'll do a little experiment over the next few days and see how it turns out, and share some pictures with you.

[MikeTrice]

The postman bought the Polak 7mm ballast I ordered a week or so back today, so I'll do a little experiment over the next few days and see how it turns out, and share some pictures with you.

Yes please. Very impressed with this product so curious what you think in another scale.

[cromptonnut]

Ok I did a few inches this evening, this will be covered by a road overbridge so thought it could easily be done before worrying about doing the whole length. The product is the 7mm "granite" and I'm using normal Peco O gauge flexitrack. This is the method previously described by NSE_DAZ which I've shamelessly copied.

 

1) Lay the track on some 5mm foamboard and pin down. Mark 1/2" past each end of the sleepers to provide a shoulder, and trim back. Then, using 1" masking tape, put a strip down the middle of the track, and along each set of sleepers.

 

 

2) Spray "side on" with a 'rust' coloured paint. Remove masking tape once finished.

 

 

3) When dry, spray "from above" with track grime. Then lightly spray along each side of each rail, to tone down the "rust".

 

 

4) Mark another 1/2" beyond the foamboard underlay, then lay a strip of masking tape on the outside of this line both sides. Ballast up to the edges of the masking tape, tapering as appropriate to give a proper shoulder, and use a flat file or small piece of wood to tamp down and give a straight-ish edge. Wet with a mister spray, then soak gently with the normal 50:50 PVA/water mix with a drop of washing up liquid. Ensure everything is well soaked but have a piece of kitchen roll handy to soak up any excess that runs out if your board isn't 100% flat, rather than let it run on to the floor.

 

 

5) Allow to dry. Once dry, chip off any loose bits that are on sleepers or the side of rails that may interfere with the smooth passage of stock.

 

 

6)Normally I would give all the track a further dilute 'wash' of a random mix of black and track grime, just to take the 'cleanness' off the ballast, giving extra attention around signals and other stopping points where oil etc may be concentrated, but I'll do that later when I've laid the rest of that length of track. But just to give you an idea of what it should look like, this is my "freight yard" which uses 4mm crushed granite flat on the board to give a neglected and worn appearance.

 

 

Hope you like.