julesmwatson Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 All, I am in the process of widening the frames of steam loco kit. I waslooking to find sowm nickel silver sheet, but have had no luck. Can tin plate be used as an alternative, or will there be problems with soldering etc? Regards, Julian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Steven B Posted August 3, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 3, 2011 Eileen's Emporium sell nickel silver sheet in a range of sizes (6"x6", 12"x6" and 24"x6") and thicknesses (4 to 64 thou). You shouldn't have any problem soldering to tin-plate (after all, traditional lead based solder is 60% tin). Happy modelling, Steven B. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lady_Ava_Hay Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 All, I am in the process of widening the frames of steam loco kit. I waslooking to find sowm nickel silver sheet, but have had no luck. Can tin plate be used as an alternative, or will there be problems with soldering etc? Regards, Julian There won't be any problems soldering tin plate except for heat distortion but I wonder whether it is rigid enough to be used for a frame. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
julesmwatson Posted August 3, 2011 Author Share Posted August 3, 2011 Hi Steve B, Thanks for that. I had forgotten about the Emporium... Thanks for your thoughts regarding soldering tin plate. I was sure that we used to undertake this when at secondary school, but just couldn't be sure. Cheers. Julian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
julesmwatson Posted August 3, 2011 Author Share Posted August 3, 2011 Hi David, The lamination will not be load bearing, but thanks for your thoughts nonetheless. Julian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajt Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 I have used tinplate for the bodywork on my current loco project and it is beautiful to solder - much easier than brass. I'm using a normal phosphoric acid flux. Regards, David. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 Probably better if that "something" wasn't oil based in the first palce though....... Just clean it with a good degreaser. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted August 4, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 4, 2011 I used to make crude toy cars etc from flattened out beans tins etc, soldered with plumbers flux and solder. Even made an scalextic six wheel Tyrell bodyshell once Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Controller Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 Just clean it with a good degreaser. OzzyO. As a native of Tinopolis (though I left many years ago), might I add some comments? Tinplate solders very easily; however, the layer of tin is very thin, and once pierced, the steel underneath rusts- take care when cleaning before soldering, and prime and paint thoroughly when the job's finished. I've seen some very good models built using tinplate from old cans, including examples where the printed-on finish was still visible before painting. Before the steel is plated, it is 'pickled' to remove surface dirt and grease. These days, this is done with dilute sulphuric acid; prior to the opening of the 'Big Three' plants, in the late 1940s/early 1950s, the smaller hand-mills used urine collected from the local pubs.. You could, of course, use lemon juice instead. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 JUlian I don't know what scale you are modelling in but Premier Models do a nice line in N/S sheet in various sizes large enough to cope with 7mm Regards Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
julesmwatson Posted August 7, 2011 Author Share Posted August 7, 2011 Hi Sandy, I'm modelling in 3.5mm, using P87 standards and broad gauge (5'3" = 18.37mm). I'm in the process of converting a brass and white metal kit from 16.5mm to 18.37mm: http://vrdays.blogspot.com/ Thanks for the suggestions from everyone else. Much appreciated. I followed some advice and jumped on Eileen's site and gave the credit card a work out. Regards, Julian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajt Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 Hi Julian, Please let us know how the delivery of the NS goes. I'd like to get some too, and it seems quite rare here in Aus. It's good to hear of someone actually making broad gauge models of broad gauge prototypes I don't know how people stand having broad gauge models on 16.5mm track. I saw some of Frank Kelly's models once, they looked really good on the wider gauge. Regards, David Taylor. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
julesmwatson Posted August 7, 2011 Author Share Posted August 7, 2011 Hi David, I'm having it sent to Vnacouver, as I'm about to relocate there. However, I do know of a modelling mate whole regularly purchases items (including NS) from Eileen's with no problems. As for broad gauge: yes, it surprises me a greeat deal that more don't do it. I think most don't care and the rest can't be bothered...! Julian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
roadrabbit Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 There won't be any problems soldering tin plate except for heat distortion but I wonder whether it is rigid enough to be used for a frame. Hi, I am restoring vintage Schuco clockwork cars. My problem is the body shell halves are joined together by bent metal 'tangs'. Many of these have broken off by curious owners. Would it be practicable to solder nickel silver strip or other tin plate in small strips to replace the missing tangs? If not, does anyone have any constructive hints? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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