Jon020 Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 Dear all. I've had a mild (no more than mild) disaster with my P4 Deltic - see http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/587/entry-7401-p4-class-55-deltic-conversion-hopefully-not-an-end/ I'm considering the best options open to me to prevent me writing this one off. I would like to try to not loose or damage as many of the etch parts as possible, but realise that it is inevitable that some will be lost in the process... but what I want to achieve is a clean start point to start over... making sure that all paint is removed especially from all the fine grills and mesh parts added... and in the nooks and crannies such as the headcode brackets, under the lifting point covers and footstep recesses. I realise that I may be asking quite a bit here - but I've no experience with these strip methods. I won't want to run the risk of anything that might attack the plastic or glues - although that might be unavoidable (?)... I found a 2009 thread on this subject on the old forum http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=86&t=40619&sid=f4999e89a93ed5e6ce12ade79624975e&start=25 but wondered whether this had ever been updated with recent experience. Any help to enable me to recover this recent disaster... much appreciated. thanks... in anticipation. Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike morley Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 Hydraulic brake fluid has often been recommended on here and I tried it for the first time a few months ago and was initially more than pleased with the results. BUT, I now find myself suspecting that over time brake fluid makes the plastic harder and more brittle. I've had a couple of handrails snap off after comparatively mild handling and tapping a bodyshell that has been through a bath of DOT3 now produces a noticeably sharper, harder sound than an identical bodyshell that hasn't. I used a clear plastic drawer from one of those banks of small drawer units that all modellers possess as the fluid bath and, again, the plastic is now noticeably harder (and slightly yellowed) when compared with those drawers that have never been used for anything other than storing wagon wheels or three-link couplings. I've never heard anyone else mention experiencing this so my problem might be caused by something else, but it has made me a little wary of trying it again. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
knobhead Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 I've used brake fluid for paint removal on plastic for almost 10 years. 99.9 % of the time it's been succesful, a few times it made the plastic soft instead of brittle, like what happened to Mike Morley. All plastics are not the same, but the brake fluid should be useful in most cases. Regards, Stefan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon020 Posted August 31, 2011 Author Share Posted August 31, 2011 Ok chaps... thanks. I've read about brake fluid, but can't help that yes it might achieve the desired result... but that's not what it was intended to do... so I'd prefer the "better" dedicated stripper. I'm not looking for a cheap fix... I'm looking for the "best" way to do it... even if it means paying a few more quid. thanks... Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raffles Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 Modelstrip will, over time, make a nice job of removing the paint although it can take some cleaning up. Superstrip, you can chuck in a washing up bowl (not the washing up bowl, mind - that will get you into trouble) and slosh around over the bodyshell, watching the paint run off. Superstrip does not smell nice. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 I've just managed to strip a wagon body which had been painted using Lord knows what... Modelstrip and oven cleaner wouldn't shift it, but there's a recipe on here somewhere involving Caustic Soda and Meths. It took a couple of weeks soaking, and the paint kind of flaked off rather than being dissolved, but I did get it all to come off eventually. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveB Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 I've used this method, which I found on a forum, and have been pleased with the result. However, it does take time and patience. Immerse the parts to be stripped in a 50% solution of household disinfectant (eg Dettol) and leave for one week. This will loosen the paint which can then be easily removed with an old toothbrush. The other advantage is that it makes the house smell much better than paint stripper! DaveB Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 40-something Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 Hi Jon I recommend Superstrip, will take the paint off without attacking the glues. Modelstrip is good for shells without fine details, but I found it attacked glues (poly and cyno) and a few detail parts went down the drain! Leave the shell soaking in Superstrip for a few hours and rinse the paint off, aided with an old soft toothbrush. The advantage of Superstrip is that it can be re-used a few times. No connection other than a satisfied user. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon020 Posted September 1, 2011 Author Share Posted September 1, 2011 Thanks all for the posts... and especially for the last one... Thanks Joe... because I ordered some superstrip last night, so I must have pre-empted this suggestion and yoru comment that it doesn't attack the glues is nice to read. fingers... and everything else still crossed. Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bangor Lad Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 Hi Jon I've had success using Fairy PowerSpray for removing paint from second hand kit built rolling stock. Give it a liberal spraying and clean off the residue with clean water and an old toothbrush. Occasionally a second treatment is required to shift thick paint or clear out any deeply engraved detail. In my experience it hasn't weakened glued joints either. Hope this is helpful. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon_R Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 Causic soda will also strip most model paints and its silly cheap, but also nasty stuff. At least it cleans the drains when you pour it away For superstrip i use a plastic sweet jar. I put a decent amout in the bottom, pop the body to be stripped inside and screw the lid on with a piece of cling film to ensure no leakage. Then just roll the jar around sloshing the superstrip overthe body until it has a decnt coating. Leave for a few mins and repeat to wash the loosened paint off. When its striped open the jar and wash the body under the tap with an old toothbrush to get the stuburn bits off. The used stripper can live in the re-sealed jar, or you can poor it into a bottle for safe keeping (you get a good few goes with it) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidR Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 Jon: If I can add my a'ppeth on your stripping querie, I have successfully used oven cleaner to strip off paint from plastic coaches/wagons etc. Method is as follows (and use plastic gloves to protect your hands): put item to be stripped in a plastic bag. Spray oven cleaner into bag. Shake it about a bit to get an even cover. Seal bag and put in the shed for 24 hours. After: remove item from bag, over the sink and run cold water over the whole at the same time brushing with an old toothbrush. This should remove 99% of offending paint. Leave item to dry. If really stubborn paint remans,repeat process. (Don't wear your best suit when doing this). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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