Did these wagons have cross rodding to connect the brake gear on each side ?

[Guest stuartp]

The ones on the prototype were often like this.. I break a lot of tie-bars, as these rods are called, and generally replace them woth fine brass angle, or even with copper wire hammered flat.

I do wonder if this kit is a legacy of the old 'Ian Kirk' range, as the 21t and 24½t minerals were? It would be nice to see it reissued, perhaps with the existing body, but with the deeper solebars and heavy-duty 'w-irons' of the BR-built ones. I've done a few of these, with vac-brakes- a type widely seen around BR, even away from industrial areas.

 

I think you might be right. There are a few early kits from other ranges, the LNER cattle wagon was 'Westykits' I think.

 

Just goes to show you shouldn't be impatient. It does say something about this in the instructions. Never mind, I've got it sorted with lengths of plastic section.

 

You certainly aren't the first person to do it. 

[Il Grifone]

Now it's pretty well assembled, the long thin rods that go from the bottom of one axlebox to the other, one either side, are slightly bowed, probably as a result of clumsy handling. Any ideas how to fix this?

These things are quite delicate and tend to break easily, even when they don't exhibit this problem. Repairs using cement or solvent are usually only temporary (at least mine are). The best solution is replacement with metal strip or wire, but I have never really solved how to fix these to the plastic axleguards. Cyano should do the job, but I seem to have a high failure rate with it (like Chinese adhesive tape it sticks well to fingers, but badly where required).

The approved course is to replace the running gear with etched, compensated* W-irons and cast spring axlebox/spring assemblies, to which the tie-bars/rods can be soldered. (Life's too short IMHO)

 

* Compensation (or springing) is preferable, especially on LWB vehicles, but not essential.

[rodshaw]

Ah well, I think I'll just leave the tiebars alone, until they break off that is...in which case I'll just cut them off, Luddite fashion. I've certainly no intention of replacing the running gear, I don't think it's worth it.

 

This is the first plastic kit I've built for some time, and I must say the Liquid Poly certainly got to me! I ended up with a crashing headache yesterday, and wasn't even at it for long.

[Fat Controller]

These things are quite delicate and tend to break easily, even when they don't exhibit this problem. Repairs using cement or solvent are usually only temporary (at least mine are). The best solution is replacement with metal strip or wire, but I have never really solved how to fix these to the plastic axleguards. Cyano should do the job, but I seem to have a high failure rate with it (like Chinese adhesive tape it sticks well to fingers, but badly where required).

The approved course is to replace the running gear with etched, compensated* W-irons and cast spring axlebox/spring assemblies, to which the tie-bars/rods can be soldered. (Life's too short IMHO)

 

* Compensation (or springing) is preferable, especially on LWB vehicles, but not essential.

I'm afraid I cheat a little, if using wire or rod, by fixing it just above the cross-piece between the two sides of the axleguard slide, using epoxy, rather than cyanoacrylate. Tidied up carefully with a file, and suitably weathered, it's not very noticeable, and certainly far less so than a missing tie-bar.

[brian777999]

This is the first plastic kit I've built for some time, and I must say the Liquid Poly certainly got to me! I ended up with a crashing headache yesterday, and wasn't even at it for long.

 

Use the Revell Contacta Professional ; it has the small needle dispenser built into the container. I never use anything else now as there are hardly any excess fumes. I still have the fans on and the windows open though !

[Fat Controller]

Use the Revell Contacta Professional ; it has the small needle dispenser built into the container. I never use anything else now as there are hardly any excess fumes. I still have the fans on and the windows open though !

And make sure you've some fine hard wire to clean the nozzle when it gets blocked.

[brian777999]

And make sure you've some fine hard wire to clean the nozzle when it gets blocked.

 

I light it with a match to clear any blockages but  I find if I put the cap on straight after use then it is usually okay. The problem becomes worse when you get down to about 1/4 full.