pauln Posted September 17, 2011 Share Posted September 17, 2011 Hi all, I need to dismantle my loft layout and rebuild it in the "back room". Since I need some storage space under the layout and my carpentry skills are limited I wondered if anybody had used kitchen unit carcasses to form the base and support for a layout. I accept that access to the underside of the layout may be more difficult but this time around I plan to do all the electrics before setting each board in position. I was thinking of still having the usual softwood bracing under the ply baseboard and laying this across several kitchen units arranged around the walls of the room. Any thoughts on practicality or any obvious flaws I have missed (apart from cost - though I think it is worth the outlay to get the storage as well). I assume somebody has tried this before but I couldn't find any examples on rmweb .. which might tell me something. Thanks Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kris Posted September 17, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 17, 2011 You should get away without using very much softwood bracing. The carcasses will give almost all the support you need. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcm@gwr Posted September 17, 2011 Share Posted September 17, 2011 Hi Paul, A friend of mine has done this to hide his '0' gauge terminus [from his garden layout] in his bungalow. He has fitted hinged worktop sections so when closed you wouldn't know it was there. I agree that you don't need as much support if you use good cabinets, also make sure you use drawer line not high line if you want to set it into the cabinets, if on top it's not as important. Good luck, Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Job's Modelling Posted September 17, 2011 Share Posted September 17, 2011 I have used IVAR wall units from IKEA. They are obout 121 cm high, 50 cm wide and 84 cm per unit in lenght. I find this an excelent high for my layout. You can create in this way your own wall unit. I have aded some doors. Job Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
edcayton Posted September 17, 2011 Share Posted September 17, 2011 Should be fine. You can get at the underside if you don't have a worktop. Most have adjustable feet so you can make it look level. Look in skips!!!! When next door re-did their kitchen we had the old units for the greenhouse. Ed Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tel2010 Posted September 17, 2011 Share Posted September 17, 2011 Hi Sure i seen somewhere on here a while back something similar,kitchen carcases or cupboards which had the baseboard tops fitted with hinges at back so you can prop them up to gain access to underneath. Obviously if in sections would have to have plug connections or similar for the electrics etc. Tel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Webbo Posted September 17, 2011 Share Posted September 17, 2011 Paul, Great idea. Assuming you are not fitting a full length worktop but keeping each unit seperate, I would put some form of diagonal bracing or some hardboard or thin ply at the back of each unit to stop them swaying. Even when bolted together they might sway a bit. webbo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauln Posted September 18, 2011 Author Share Posted September 18, 2011 Thanks for the replies. Consensus seems to be that this is viable. Hi Paul, A friend of mine has done this to hide his '0' gauge terminus [from his garden layout] in his bungalow. He has fitted hinged worktop sections so when closed you wouldn't know it was there. If there are any photos of his layout available I would be interested to see some please I have used IVAR wall units from IKEA. They are obout 121 cm high, 50 cm wide and 84 cm per unit in lenght. I find this an excelent high for my layout. You can create in this way your own wall unit. I have aded some doors. I did look at Ikea type stuff once before. Will have another look. I like the idea of the kitchen units so that the shelving is as enclosed as possible to reduce dust etc. Paul, Great idea. Assuming you are not fitting a full length worktop but keeping each unit seperate, I would put some form of diagonal bracing or some hardboard or thin ply at the back of each unit to stop them swaying. Even when bolted together they might sway a bit. webbo My idea was not to use a full length worktop. All the kitchen units would be bolted together with layout board perhaps 4 or 6 feet long covering a pair of units each. Bracing also a good idea, thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwin_m Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 Make sure the layout boards are removeable with some amount of bracing so they don't flex too much when lifted from the top of the unit. Even if you do all the electrics beforehand there are bound to be things that need changing when you first run, or go wrong afterwards. Lying on the floor with the back of your neck resting on the sharp bottom corner of the unit soldering stuff in semi-darkness above your face is not everybody's idea of fun! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
m mcdermott Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 hi ,i used this idea years ago in the garage i had at the time .i found that spacing the units apart under baseboard joins made life easier for running repairs .nowt worse than trying to tilt a full layout to get at unsoldered joint .but they make a good solid foundation go for it ......mali Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted September 18, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 18, 2011 Its a good idea but the electrics can be an issue. Having worked as a plumber I can tell you that reaching in upside down to fix the taps on a sink or the clips that hold the sink itself you have to bend your base over the plinth into the cupboard. Not good for your back. I would suggest DCC plenty of droppers all connected to bus bars beforehand should reduce the need to get to the wiring. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Etched Pixels Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 I've used Ivar both supporting boards I made and using the shelves. If you use the shelves you really need a layer of ply over the top across the joins to stop them shifting a bit over time and making a mess of your track joins. Thickness is also an issue but the SEEP motors reach through 6mm ply & Ivar just fine. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Absolute Aspects Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 I just had a brilliant image enter my head of the 'better half's' face if I were to build a layout on the kitchen worksurface... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauln Posted November 20, 2011 Author Share Posted November 20, 2011 So after careful consideration I did decide to go down the kitchen unit option. Here are a couple of photos of the units in position. A couple of observations. If you keep models in the cupboards you need some protection between them and the baseboards at the very least whilst construction is in progress. My baseboards came from a previous layout and thus are a little deeper than the units. Therefore some additional cross bracing is needed to rest the baseboards in line with the side and front edges of the kitchen units otherwise the baseboard sags over the front and side. I bought the units from B&Q for about £50-£55 each depending on the size. Originally I was planning not to include doors but I was "persuaded" otherwise which added to the cost a bit but do make the room look tidier and keep the contents cleaner. You can track further progress on my layout thread (when I start making progress that is!) http://www.rmweb.co....46-woodmere-oo/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris g Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 Interesting idea, love the storage space it gives. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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