woodbine Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 I have seen some quite convincing rainwater fittings at exhibitions, and am quite confident of the larger picture, having fitted real size ones as a day job. I am using Slaters rod for the pipes, and the local Pennine gutters are square wooden ones, easy to make up. What has got me beat so far is how to represent the various pipe fittings and brackets. Mention is made of 1)cotton threads glued on, 2)strips of cellotape. But I've tried them, and the sticky tape comes out all different sizes and sticks to my scissors anyway, and the cotton thread looks too small, is very very fiddly, and gets glue on everything. So how do you go about it? I'd appreciate a variety of methods, please. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 This seems to be a neglected area. I get miffed when I see building without these features. Wills and Ratio do building details packs. For my model of Frome Station I came up with this idea for gutters: http://bmrcm.org/category/tips-tricks scroll down the page to the piece on gutters. References are to Evergreen Plastic. For this model I used brass rod bent (I chose the diameter by eye) as needed for downspouts. I glued pieces of plastic to the walls and drilled these 0.020" either side of the downspouts. I then took 0.020" wire and bent it to form a staple which secured the downspouts. My initial effort is a tad too heavy - finer wire and thinner plastic might look better. I haven't got any pictures of the station - it is in the process of being installed. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iL Dottore Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 I've used a variety of methods for the rainwater goods for Brunel Terrace, The Earl of Devon, Chagford Road Signal Box, etc. It basically boils down to what I have at hand that looks right. I have used masking tape cut to width and wrapped around the down-spout and washed with mekpak. What I don't do is cut the tape with scissors. I lay the tape on a pane of clean glass (I have such a pane of glass in my workshop and it's useful for many things) which I have wiped with alcohol and air dried (this helps retain the tape's stickiness) and using a steel ruler and a brand new knife blade cut a length of suitably wide tape which is then cut into manageable lengths and wrapped around the down spout Another tip, when using brass rod, is to wrap some suitably wide brass strip around the rod and crimp to hold in place (the rod and strip should look like a T) and then sweat in place with a soldering iron. Both strip and rod need to be tinned first and plenty of flux used. The advantage is that the tail of the T (i.e. rod and strip) can be filed down and used to fix the down spout in a suitable sized hole in the wall. Holding brackets can then be represented by suitably sized squares of plastic card glued to each side of the rod Much the same can be achieved with plastic rod and plastic strip, although I prefer brass rod F sorry for the over use of "suitably sized", it's all down to what looks right (unless you are modelling a specific building with a specific, non generic, set of watergoods). The best bet is to look at the various builder's and plumber's sites on the internet - you'll soon get a feel for what's right Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tel2010 Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 Ive used electrical tape cut to width on a sheet of glass with a craft knife, just cut a length and lift with end of knife, to rap around pipes to form the joints quite successfully. Sorry no pics at moment. Tel Whoops beat to it ,by Il dottore Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodbine Posted November 5, 2011 Author Share Posted November 5, 2011 Thanks for the replies guys. RMWEB is so useful. Masking tape or electrical tape cut on glass, rather than cellotape and parcel tape with scissors, seems to be the answer in that direction. But brass rod and wire wrap is much more within my comfort zone and I'll try that first, with every hope of success. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 This might help, I hope so.... Wire, tiny strips of paper, lead solder etc http://www.rmweb.co....ntry-pub-model/ Doug To make 6" downpipes [the size for big buildings] in OO, you need some 2mm plastic rod, a scrap of .020" plasticard and some cartridge paper cut into imm and 2mm strip, PVA glue and super glue . A leather punch is a handy extra, but isn't essential. The advantage of using plastic rod is that it can be bent cold. Smear the 2mm paper strip with PVA and let it soften, then wrap around the plastic rod at the place you want to imitate a pipe joint, squeezing it tightly with a pair of flat pliers to make sure it is well wrapped, wait a few seconds and then snip off the long bits with some end cutters. Do this in each place there would be a joint, perhaps every scale 8ft, making sure the 'wraps' are all wound and snipped off at the 'back' side of the pipe. having allowed the bands to dry, snip the 1mm strip into 4mm lengths and having put a minute blob of PVA on the 'back' of a band, touch it centrally onto the little piece of 1mm strip. Repeat for each band, keeping the little strips all in the same plane. If you have a suitable punch, a tiny disc of plasticard can be glued to the end of the rod to make a 'flange'. Paint them up, stick them on with super glue and blow a raspberry to Messrs Peco! A little bullsh&t dot of black ink imitates the big fastener holding the 'brackets' to the wall The 'washbasin' pipe is a piece of 1mm florisits wire bent to shape, brackets as above, effectively 6" downpipes in 'N' gauge. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
emac Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 Great tip on downpips "Chubber" do you have any tips with guttering in OO? Eddie Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 Excellent! Something to try next time I make a building. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 Great tip on downpips "Chubber" do you have any tips with guttering in OO? Eddie Thank you, this might fit the bill, but for anoracky retired 'must get a life' types only......... ...unless you will view your buildings from below, only the end 1/2" need be undercut as below. Hope it helps.......oh, I've cut the fur off my anorak as it kept on getting tangled with my beard......... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
emac Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 First class my man the retail packs I bought are **** well not up to the job and I tried scraping down plastic tubing but did not work out right your post looks ideal so off to the charity shop to get a anorak with fur hood and will grow a beard. Reality is that I will have to fight my way into my workshop to get at my angle grinder to make the scrapers thanks for your post Doug regards Eddie Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iL Dottore Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 I'm afraid I'm lazy and do my guttering the Geoff Kent way - suitable diameter rod glued to a narrow plastic strip. Once in situ and the top painted black, you'd be hard pressed to notice the difference with the beautiful, accurate (but alas fiddly and time consuming) method used by Chubber F Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Natalie Graham Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 Thank you, this might fit the bill, but for anoracky retired 'must get a life' types only......... I make guttering like that. (Don't have the special tools though.) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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