Bloodnok Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 I've not previously built anything more interesting than a standard pine frame, solid ply top board. I'm planning my first 'big' layout (baseboards to be constructed and in situ before I return to work after Christmas), and I am in need of some design advice. The layout will be an L shape of nearly 5m by 2m, so will require several baseboards. It will be of open frame construction, and will be freestanding. I am aiming for baseboards around 1200mm to 1500mm long, split to accommodate the layout pointwork. However, what I can't decide is how wide a baseboard should be... The layout is a continuous run, and near the ends of the L shape I need to accommodate dual track 180 degree curves. If I make these as single boards, they would be at least 1100mm wide. This would result in end boards almost 4ft square, which sound to me like they could be a bit of a handful, and will definitely not fit in my car once constructed. As the layout isn't intended to move (it's a home layout, not an exhibition piece), and all the baseboards will not fit in the car at the same time no matter how I split them, I'm wondering if this is a misnomer, and if I should go for the larger boards for better running as with split end boards, trains would be crossing board joints on fairly sharp curves? Or is the handling still going to be an issue, and should I risk dodgy running and split these boards in half, joining them on their long side to make the required space? Another question I have is how to arrange baseboard legs? I'm thinking about making one central board (probably the point of the 'L') with a full complement of legs, and giving the other boards legs on one end only. They would sit on a shelf that is part of the end of the adjacent board - such shelves would be provided wherever there are legs. This would appear to me to provide a solid support for the critical cross-board join, without having to worry about the vertical alignment of the two boards. Is this a good idea? Is it sufficient? Is there anything else I should be thinking about using between boards? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kris Posted November 21, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 21, 2011 As your layout will be semi permanent bigger boards will suit your needs and if you do need to move them then hire a van. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
QRModeller Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 Hi Bloodnok. I'm guessing that you are working in N if the width of the boards is going to be 1100mm? I'm also guessing that you are thinking of making the end boards one complete structure? If you think they might be a bit large, you could try something along the lines of this: I haven't drawn this to scale but assume the board labelled 1 is the main board. Depending on your requirements, the 180 degree turn would start and finish on board 3 or, start on board 1 and end on board 2. The track on board 2 would eventually run back onto board 1 to complete the circuit and there would be a similar setup on the other end of the 'L' if a continuous run is desired. Alternatively, where the 180 degree turn is, the boards could be made so that there is an access hole in the middle of the loop which would allow you to reach all parts of that section incase there is a derailment or similar accident. I hope this helps (it makes perfect sense in my head). Matt. P.S. Nice username! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloodnok Posted November 21, 2011 Author Share Posted November 21, 2011 I'm guessing that you are working in N if the width of the boards is going to be 1100mm? No, this would be OO. I'm also guessing that you are thinking of making the end boards one complete structure? Yes - that was the thought. Mk5 of the plan looks something like this: This is using Peco components, although I probably won't stick with either that exact design, or with the Peco points! I'm currently trying a version based on Tillig geometry, which has several advantages, but also new challenges on how to make things fit... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Sheep Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 the unwieldlyness of a board will depend on if it is plain track or has scenary on it. and what kind of scenary that is. a plain board at 4ft square won't be too much problem for myself due to being tall, add some hills and tunnel onto this and it will be a bit harder to move around on my own for fear of damage but should be ok. put a town of plastic and cardboard kits on it and I'd be looking to have someone help me move it so that I don't damage it Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted November 23, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 23, 2011 Using a centre board with four legs then having the boards either side with a single leg resting on a shelf will work fine for my 0 gauge layout I made the pair of lengs for the centre free standing by fixing a bracing panel across the back. The board then rest on top. The legs have a cross member which supports the edge of the board. An additional pice attached to this supports the edge of the next board and a pair of legs fit under the outer end. Split hinges hold the boards together. Hopefully the picture show what I mean Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PWSlack Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 Do the boards have to be rectangular and angular? Can they have some lovely graceful curves to them like the majority of the trackwork found on prototype railways? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
'CHARD Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 Do the boards have to be rectangular and angular? Can they have some lovely graceful curves to them like the majority of the trackwork found on prototype railways? Depends how much sawing you want to do, and how much good wood you want to scrap. Unless you're building using an open frame method, at which point it becomes a labour of love integrating lots of curved main longitudinals or bearers, I guess... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloodnok Posted November 24, 2011 Author Share Posted November 24, 2011 Do the boards have to be rectangular and angular? Can they have some lovely graceful curves to them like the majority of the trackwork found on prototype railways? Depends how much sawing you want to do, and how much good wood you want to scrap. Unless you're building using an open frame method, at which point it becomes a labour of love integrating lots of curved main longitudinals or bearers, I guess... The end boards (which would benefit most from a nice sweeping curved edge) will definitely be open frame. I'd love to get a nice curve on the outside of those, but that would be a cosmetic edge only - not structural. My woodworking skills do not extend as far as building anything structural from curves! So I'll be building the angular version depicted, and when I get the correct 'round tuit' for landscaping (which will be after I've proven the running qualities of the trackwork...), I'll add a curved fascia board out of thin MDF or something similar. BTW, That one narrower baseboard needs to be narrower to fit over my workbench. I can't simply make that the same width as all the others for neatness either, though I have been thinking about putting 'fills' in the corners... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloodnok Posted November 25, 2011 Author Share Posted November 25, 2011 Using a centre board with four legs then having the boards either side with a single leg resting on a shelf will work fine for my 0 gauge layout I made the pair of lengs for the centre free standing by fixing a bracing panel across the back. The board then rest on top. The legs have a cross member which supports the edge of the board. An additional pice attached to this supports the edge of the next board and a pair of legs fit under the outer end. Split hinges hold the boards together. Hopefully the picture show what I mean Yes, that's very helpful. Thanks for sharing your leg construction. I also notice you use ply for bracing between the legs rather than a diagonal piece of timber. I hadn't thought of that - it should give a very stable system... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted November 25, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 25, 2011 Glad they were of use. Although it is not clear from the picture the two ends boards have curved fronts. Simply done with spacers. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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