muddys-blues Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 I agree Mike - they are superb models. I bought a couple of BR blues to backdate slightly to pre-TOPS 1974 condition. Here's the first I had a go at 100 Sherwood Forester, one of the first peaks I saw. Needs a squirt of satin varnish over the numbers but a straightforward mod- added new headcodes as the Bachy ones look a little on the anaemic side. Neil Hi, just a tip I did on my Bachmann peak lights, the LED's are to white, so a placed a dab of yellow enamel paint with a cocktail stick on the LED surface, this now gives a warmer yellow glow when running. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium mirreles31 Posted January 4, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 4, 2012 ive managed to get some Hornby 31 pipes, if anyones got any decent bufferbeam close up pics for reference id be very greatful. even pics of peoples loco's with them fitted. also any advice on differences of pipework on individual loco's. Mike Hi Mike, here's a pic of D163 (Cl.46) with pipes fitted. This formation of pipework is taken from pics of locos in original condition. The Hornby 31 pipes are under the buffers at each side, the vac pipe left of coupling is the Bachmann offering, I think the steam pipe to the right is Heljan. The coupling is Hornby & the MU socket is from the 31 pack. I made my own MU cable from wire & thin cable insulation (the Baccy MUs are of a later type) , the bracket the MU cable fits onto at the far right, has been cut down (it's way over size). The hole in the buffer beam is actually there on the prototype, although slightly larger and lower down but looks ok to me. If you want to go the whole hog there's a thin pipe running accross the buffer beam front connecting the 4 thin pipes at each side ( I decided not to bother! for sanity's sake). Decent pics can be found in BR Main Line Diesels, Marsden & Fenn, amongst others. Differences in pipework formation depend on the era you are modelling, so research is the way to go. Cheers Phil. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 thats just what i was after many thanks, looks superb! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Downendian Posted January 5, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 5, 2012 Agreed. A really nice model. I have a couple of these as well as the 44, 45 centre box and 46's to detail up as soon as someone makes some decent etched nose side grills. Later on they had a one piece style but I can't find any at the mo.... Cheers. Sean. Hi Sean In Model Rail 100 George Dent describes running a seeker through those errant nose grilles to remove the central strut. I didn't have the courage to do that, but his version (again of Sherwood Forester) looked very good albeit with adapted 37/40 Craftsman split headcodes which aren't as fine as those on these new models. Neil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted January 5, 2012 Author Share Posted January 5, 2012 The hole in the buffer beam is actually there on the prototype, although slightly larger and lower down Cheers Phil. comparing my shot with yours it looks like they've done this on the newer model? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
the penguin of doom Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 Hi Sean In Model Rail 100 George Dent describes running a seeker through those errant nose grilles to remove the central strut. I didn't have the courage to do that, but his version (again of Sherwood Forester) looked very good albeit with adapted 37/40 Craftsman split headcodes which aren't as fine as those on these new models. Neil Hi Neil. Thanks for the heads up on that. I can feel an ebay search coming on. What number Model Rail are we on now?..... Ironically, I was chatting at the club last night and it seemed to be the general concensus that this would have to be the way to go so your reply is spot on and perfectly timed. Cheers. Sean. Quick edit after ebay search, is MR 100 the one with the Deltic painting on the cover? It appears to be but just checking? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
D6975 Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 Bristol Temple Meads-Edinburgh/Glasgow sleeper was 1S19. Most sleeper services had headcodes ending between 01 and 20. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Downendian Posted January 5, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 5, 2012 Hi Neil. Thanks for the heads up on that. I can feel an ebay search coming on. What number Model Rail are we on now?..... Ironically, I was chatting at the club last night and it seemed to be the general concensus that this would have to be the way to go so your reply is spot on and perfectly timed. Cheers. Sean. Quick edit after ebay search, is MR 100 the one with the Deltic painting on the cover? It appears to be but just checking? Sean Yes that's the one - 100th edition hence 100 Sherwood Forester Neil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium mirreles31 Posted January 5, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 5, 2012 comparing my shot with yours it looks like they've done this on the newer model? Just had another peek (ha ha) at your OP pics and there's a definite shift there, compared to prototype pics neither is correct but it gets lost under the pipework etc and a bit of weathering . Did yours come with cranked couplings, having the hole so low down? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
the penguin of doom Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 Sean Yes that's the one - 100th edition hence 100 Sherwood Forester Neil Ah yes. I get it now! Cheeky bid left on ebay then, no outbidding rmwebbers......! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted January 6, 2012 Author Share Posted January 6, 2012 . Did yours come with cranked couplings, having the hole so low down? im not sure to be honest, one of the first thing i did was pull out the couplings and I didnt notice. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium mirreles31 Posted January 6, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 6, 2012 im not sure to be honest, one of the first thing i did was pull out the couplings and I didnt notice. No worries, I do the same, don't use 'em . Just wondered, as if my loco and yours met with tension locks they'd have job on coupling up . Cheers Phil. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisM Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 This formation of pipework is taken from pics of locos in original condition. The Hornby 31 pipes are under the buffers at each side, the vac pipe left of coupling is the Bachmann offering, I think the steam pipe to the right is Heljan. The coupling is Hornby & the MU socket is from the 31 pack. I made my own MU cable from wire & thin cable insulation (the Baccy MUs are of a later type) , the bracket the MU cable fits onto at the far right, has been cut down (it's way over size). The hole in the buffer beam is actually there on the prototype, although slightly larger and lower down but looks ok to me. If you want to go the whole hog there's a thin pipe running accross the buffer beam front connecting the 4 thin pipes at each side ( I decided not to bother! for sanity's sake). Decent pics can be found in BR Main Line Diesels, Marsden & Fenn, amongst others. Differences in pipework formation depend on the era you are modelling, so research is the way to go. Cheers Phil. Hi Phil, What were the pipes mounted under the buffers used for? Were they only fitted to certain locomotives? I have recently purchased this model and have been doing a bit of digging into the bufferbeam pipework - the best picture I could find showing the bufferbeam clearly online was this one (taken from the Waverley Route thread): Which only has the Vac and steam heat pipes, either side of the coupling and nothing else? Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
45125 Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 Hi Chris, The pipes on the bogie head stock are (L-R) regulating air pipe, main reservoir equalising pipe, vacuum bag, steam heat bag, main reservoir pipe and regulating air pipe. This is the layout when built, when te MU wiring was removed the two reg air pipes were also removed, the size of the main reservoir pipes also altered on some from 3/4" to 1' at that time. As they got dual braked the cock for thebrake pipe was added above the steam heat cock. On the ETH fitted examples the steam pipe was removed from the bogie and this space was used to run the cables. Hope that helps Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium mirreles31 Posted January 8, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 8, 2012 Hi Chris, The pipes on the bogie head stock are (L-R) regulating air pipe, main reservoir equalising pipe, vacuum bag, steam heat bag, main reservoir pipe and regulating air pipe. This is the layout when built, when te MU wiring was removed the two reg air pipes were also removed, the size of the main reservoir pipes also altered on some from 3/4" to 1' at that time. As they got dual braked the cock for thebrake pipe was added above the steam heat cock. On the ETH fitted examples the steam pipe was removed from the bogie and this space was used to run the cables. Hope that helps Thanks for the comprehensive answer to Chris's question 45125 . I've learnt something too! Cheers Phil. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted January 10, 2012 Author Share Posted January 10, 2012 just had a call from Howes to say the peak is done and is being sent back also called up shawplan to order up some bits and bobs, will fit a roof fan etch to it, if i can mount the speaker somewhere else. and ive got my spare Hornby pipes and screw couplings ready Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
the penguin of doom Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 just had a call from Howes to say the peak is done and is being sent back also called up shawplan to order up some bits and bobs, will fit a roof fan etch to it, if i can mount the speaker somewhere else. and ive got my spare Hornby pipes and screw couplings ready Looking forward to watching your progress on this one Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted January 10, 2012 Author Share Posted January 10, 2012 i think ill be getting it professionally weathered after ive stuck the bits on as its an airbrush job which i havent got and am no good at Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
the penguin of doom Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 i think ill be getting it professionally weathered after ive stuck the bits on as its an airbrush job which i havent got and am no good at Myself too. I really like weathered loco's, but I'm not too confident myself. I think I'm going to have to take the plunge soon though. I did a 40 a while ago and was happy enough, but there's certainly an art to getting it right. Cheers. Sean. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 not having much luck with this one. arrived back from Howes, the sounds are great. however it wouldnt run more than an inch or 2 without cutting out. then i got a chattering noise, then a very high pitched noise. so i took it apart and after much searching found that the capicitor and resistor on the motor where just touching the cast chassis causing the short. unfortunatley the wires to the speaker snap easier than a hair so they snapped, ive soldered them back on, have had the motor running, lights but cant get the sound to work, if you press 1 then speed up it still goes through the motions of the sound working, a few seconds later the motor will start but ive tried soldering the speaker a few times now with new wires but no joy, the speaker has 4 soldering points and im sure it went to the 2 outside ones, even giving the speaker a touch on a controller for a brief second i get a blip out of it, so im not sure, ive never had a chip blow but i think this has happened here. the loco is currentley in many bits about to get the sledge hammer treatment Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
the penguin of doom Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Don't despair Michael. I'm sure a call to Howes will resolve the matter. Cheers. Sean. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 i have spoken to them but it isnt their fault, they did the sound reblow ok. it was my fault for knackering the wiring on the speaker. now the motor wont run, get a bit of a buzzing and chattering noise now and then Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
the penguin of doom Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Ah. I'm afraid my optimism may have been a little misplaced then Michael. I can't really suggest anything else to help.... I'm sure a quick question in the DCC Q+A section may throw up a solution though?..... Cheers. Sean. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted January 12, 2012 Author Share Posted January 12, 2012 thats ok, just hope its the speaker and not the chip, will order a new speaker tommorrow Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gridwatcher Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Sounds a bit scary Michael although we have always had great service from Howes/South West Digital etc on Loksound chips. We have had the odd loco do this. Loksound have a 'goof proof' type of policy on decoders and SWD are the agent in UK. The Howes Peak is a beast when working properly. The only other issue we have had with them is that although a massively long 1Co-Co1 the chassis is in fact a funny little Bo-Bo as far as pick up is concerned. Several Peaks and 40s have come with greasy horrible deposits all over the pickups and in fact the locos have been trying to run on 1or 2 axles. Degreasing and a good run in has cured it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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