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Modelling and the unsteady hand


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I'm a sprightly 26, yet I suffer from very jittery hands. This makes a lot of modelling tasks quite tricky, especially as I work in N gauge. The problem is particularly evident when it comes to painting.

 

Does anybody have any tips and tricks on how I can get around this?

 

Its an issue I've always had, and in most of lifes persuits its not an issue. Modelling is a tricky affair for me.

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Where possible try resting your hands on something solid when modelling, then only move your fingers. This can cut down on a lot of the shakes.

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Have you sought medical advice as to why you have jittery hands?

Been there, done that I'm afraid. Its related to some dexterity problems I've always had. Saw Doctors etc about it a long time ago, nothing really to worry about, just something I live with.

 

Where possible try resting your hands on something solid when modelling, then only move your fingers. This can cut down on a lot of the shakes.

Have you tried using a stick to support your painting hand in the way a lot of professional signwriters etc use?

 

Ed

 

I try to put weight on my arm to help, I'll have to look at a steadying implement as mentioned.

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Wasn't there a snooker player who partook of industrial quantities of alcohol to inhibit the shakes? However, I think he died of cirrhosis, but would moderate quantities help?

 

By the by, I can't model whilst drinking beer, but am quite capable with a glass of wine? Any explanation, anybody?

 

Bill

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Guest 40-something

 

By the by, I can't model whilst drinking beer, but am quite capable with a glass of wine? Any explanation, anybody?

 

Bill

 

 

Im exactly the same Bill, with beer I have no chance of concentrating on modelling, but with wine its a whole different matter, managed to line 4 coach sides the other night over a few glasses of red!

 

Stange!

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I have a major prob with my neck, slowly and steadily getting worse due to trapped nerves and 2 prolapsed discs.

 

Due to shakey hand syndrome (right arm) I had to give up quite a bit of the fine detailed work, including getting rid of 3 link couplings etc.

 

I can work for short periods, but find after a certain time the hand starts to go......................... then thats it lol.

 

Best thing is to not let it worry you, and concentrate on WHAT you can do well, and its surprising just how much that is.

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I have inherited familial tremor in my right hand, which was one of the reasons I gave up painting Fantasy miniatures - I could no longer do full make up jobs on female figures and scaling details on dragons. I prefer to use a trackball, rather than a mouse with the computer and bought a Microsoft one with a side mounted, thumb-operatred ball - The cursor would NOT stay where it was needed, jittering around all over the screen, and I had to take it back and exchange it for one with the ball on the top, operated by the fingers with the forearm on the desk - instant cure for the problem and it works fine. Try to rest as much of your forearm/hand on the desktop as possible, and if you can make some sort of rest to support it for detail painting (even a sign writers stick) I think you will find it helpful. I find I can draw fairly accurate curves provided the hand and forearm are actually laid on the desk and rotated as a unit rather than just trying to move the hand. Oh, and don't try to do it at the end of the day - tiredness doesn't help!

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Have you tried using a magnifying visor for close up work? This may sound counter-intuitive, as of course any unsteadiness of hand would be magnified, but I have heard plastic surgeons who have operated using microscopy say that practice with that technique has improved their steadiness of hand when working without it. My artist brother, whose eyesight is no longer what it was, was having difficulty with finely detailed work. He bought a visor from Squires (usual disclaimer) and found with practice that his steadiness of hand improved. I've seen modellers doing demonstrations at exhibitions using these visors; perhaps one of these might care to comment?

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Have you tried using a stick to support your painting hand in the way a lot of professional signwriters etc use?

 

 

 

apparently called a mah'l stick. If you google it you'll see pictures, adverts for sale of same and it looks as though there may be instructions for making one, but I didn't go that far.

 

Ed

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I believe this might be the sort of thing that's being talked about here - apparently used by a number of artists (not just those who paint on canvas either - I believe they were also quite popular with the guys who used to do signwriting and other designs on the sides of canal working boats):

 

http://lindateachesa...stick_make.html

 

I don't know if this further link on the same site might be of interest to some people:

 

http://lindateachesa...o_paint_fi.html

 

 

A while back, I came across another method of "hand steadying", used by some photographers (I can't remember whether it was on a website, or in a seminar at a "Focus on Imaging" exhibition).

 

Essentially, this consisted of pressing your elbows (or upper arms) into your body - hard enough to restrict arm movement - but not hard enough to cause yourself any injuries. I haven't tried this with painting, but I think I subconsciously did something very similar for years when using a cheap 35mm SLR.

 

I think it works - how well, I don't know - whether it would work for you, I also don't know. Ultimately though, it isn't really very different to using a mahl stick.

 

 

As for the model making, my inclination would be to try and find a reasonably steady support for the model - and then use a mahl stick (probably home made - and possibly even have a couple of different size ones to choose from).

 

 

So much for my thoughts - I'm sure someone else will come along soon with better ideas. Whatever the score, I hope you're able to find some method that works for you.

 

Above all, I hope your condition doesn't get any worse.

 

 

All the best,

 

Huw.

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I have a major prob with my neck, slowly and steadily getting worse due to trapped nerves and 2 prolapsed discs.

 

Due to shakey hand syndrome (right arm) I had to give up quite a bit of the fine detailed work, including getting rid of 3 link couplings etc.

 

I can work for short periods, but find after a certain time the hand starts to go......................... then thats it lol.

 

Best thing is to not let it worry you, and concentrate on WHAT you can do well, and its surprising just how much that is.

I had a couple of herniated discs in my upper back that trapped nerves and put an end to all modelling (and just about everything else) for the best part of eight months. The operation was done by a brilliant neurosurgeon but the recovery period was long while the bone grafts settled in (about 6 of those 8 months). Since then I have been able to model, but I only do short stints as being crouched over the bench is not very good for me. Consequently my output is pathetic, but I am just happy to be able to do a little.

Your philosophy of concentrating on what you can do is spot on. Just enjoy what's possible rather than lamenting what isn't, you'll enjoy the hobby more.

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What I've learn't to do is to support my detailing hand ( R ) with my left hand and attack in small doses whatever detailing work I'm doing!

If I'm really bad, I use snipers technique of drawing a breath and holding it/letting it out slowly while doing the detailing.This is akin to Huw's photographic technique! It can work for a while, then I have to go and have a day's break.

As Jack says, don't work tired - that makes it much worse!

HTH,

John E.

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I'm fortunate that I have a reasonably steady hand, but even so I find that manipulating three link couplings is noticeably easier with a heavy coupling pole. I have an idea that the extra weight has a damping effect. I wonder if adding weight to your paintbrush may help. It used to be possible to buy thin strips of stick on lead, for diamond pattern glazing; I'd imagine a few turns round the brush handle would be a quick way of testing out the theory.

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apparently called a mah'l stick. If you google it you'll see pictures, adverts for sale of same and it looks as though there may be instructions for making one, but I didn't go that far.

 

Similarly, I seem to recall golfer Bernhard Langer often played with an extended putter in an effort to overcome "the yips" in his later playing days.

 

Me, I get shaky hands whenever I see a tempting loco kit on sale for very little.....

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Have you tried using a magnifying visor for close up work? This may sound counter-intuitive, as of course any unsteadiness of hand would be magnified, but I have heard plastic surgeons who have operated using microscopy say that practice with that technique has improved their steadiness of hand when working without it. My artist brother, whose eyesight is no longer what it was, was having difficulty with finely detailed work. He bought a visor from Squires (usual disclaimer) and found with practice that his steadiness of hand improved. I've seen modellers doing demonstrations at exhibitions using these visors; perhaps one of these might care to comment?

This may be training the muscles using biofeedback. You can teach people to wiggle their ears by using cctv camera and monitor.

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I am 27 and have moderate dyspraxia and shaky hands either a birth defect issue or part of my dyspraxia or a benign tremor might be a good idea to check to see if you have dyspraxia. You properly don't have it try listening to chill out music and work in a relax atmosphere and check your sitting posture as that can reduce the shakes.

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