Michael Delamar Posted February 18, 2012 Author Share Posted February 18, 2012 Sorry to Michael for hi-jacking his thread somewhat! Dave. Dave. not hijacking at all, carry on, all very interesting and helpful. going for a high level gearbox, does anyone know off hand what shows Chris is at soon? I know you can print off a template but would rather take it to a show and see him. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted February 18, 2012 Author Share Posted February 18, 2012 I've just been viewing 'Decades of Steam 1920s' and there is a very short clip of one of these engines towards the end. I'd be surprised if the sound is authentic though. Regards cheers Ive got that, just dug it out and had a look, very brief as you but worth it and a good video I havent watched for ages. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted February 19, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 19, 2012 not hijacking at all, carry on, all very interesting and helpful. going for a high level gearbox, does anyone know off hand what shows Chris is at soon? I know you can print off a template but would rather take it to a show and see him. Mike Mike, not sure but he's usually at Scalefour North. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 thanks Paul im reading up the instructions for building the tender, one thing I need to know, there is an option to build the tender with coal doors or without, im unsure as to what the Austin 7 should have if anyone can help please cheers Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Best description of a coal-door tender is the one Bachmann produces for its Crab etc. It was the old Fowler standard tender that didnt have coal doors, many of which ran behind Compounds. I have looked at a few Austin Sevens and they all have coal doors. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 thanks Larry, hoping to make a start on the tender tonight at the club. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted February 21, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 21, 2012 It's not always easy to detect whether locos had bulkhead or coal door tenders, tenders were usually repaired on a separate line and attached to the next suitable loco which emerged from the works. Another variation is the position of the vents, originally in the coal space, later moved behind the rear bulkhead, this is easier to spot. Michael Edge 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 (edited) I made a start on the tender tonight here is the etch chris got me started by soldering the frames to the chassis, then I soldered the rear bufferbeam and front drag beam. then I soldered the sides to a strengthening piece that is shaped to the coal base, then the rear of the tender was soldered to the frame, then the front piece for the coal doors, there is no coal base provided, the instructions say use a piece of plasticard for this but I found a scrap piece of brass and soldered that in, overall the soldering went well, quite neat for me apart from the coal base piece which will be hidden by coal anyway so not too concered. i havent done the chassis yet its just placed inside for the photo. just going to give it a wash in soapy water now. Edited February 21, 2012 by michael delamar 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 (edited) i had a nice chat with Chris Gibbon of High level yesterday and have decided to go for one of his Loadhauler compact plus gearboxes at 80/1 with a mashima 1424 mounted vertical in the firebox, driving the rear axle. im also debating on having one side of the loco live and the other side of the tender live to save fitting pickups. Edited February 23, 2012 by michael delamar 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted February 23, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 23, 2012 If you do that it's best to insulate the inner tender frames from the rest of it, then you don't need to insulate the drawbar and fallplate. I use this method normally with 7mm tender locos, the fixing nuts on the top of the tender floor are soldered on to pcb, holes opened out a bit so that the screws don't touch the floor. Final insulation is with tape, press stud for electrical connection. Michael Edge 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 Thanks mike, I was thinking on using some pcb for the drawbar aswel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted February 24, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 24, 2012 I used to use pcb drawbars but they had a tendency to break - especially when picked up by somewhat clumsy people. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 In case you haven't seen it, Mike, I've just noticed a good almost-broadside photo of one of these in Eric Sawford's Fifties Steam Remembered. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted February 25, 2012 Author Share Posted February 25, 2012 I used to use pcb drawbars but they had a tendency to break - especially when picked up by somewhat clumsy people. thanks Mike,I can see that happening, ill give that idea a miss. In case you haven't seen it, Mike, I've just noticed a good almost-broadside photo of one of these in Eric Sawford's Fifties Steam Remembered. cheers I havent seen that one, im looking through lots of my dads books and have just come another shot of 49515 on Wigan shed, the same loco I posted a pic of on page 2 and Im thinking of modelling, its a shot of the other side of the loco and is in Lancashire railways Mike Hitches & Jim roberts. not the best reproduced image but can see the tender coal door and a valve just behind the smokebox on the boiler which ive never noticed before. another good shot is in footplate memories Bolton trinity street to Liverpool Exchange, Jim Markland scenes from the past 54. the High level gearbox arrived, it looks like its going to be a tight fit widthways, if it does fit there will be no sideplay on the rear axle another good side shot is in Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted February 28, 2012 Author Share Posted February 28, 2012 i havent got any cutting discs at home so will do cutting of the shafts tonight at the club, but this afternoon ive made a start on the high level gearbox by opening out the holes and soldering it up. im not overly happy that the brass worm and cog are loose fits on the motor shaft and axle, the instructions say to use loctite but I would have prefered grub screws on them, Im not too keen on the mixing of brass and nylon gears aswel but we'll see how it goes. making up gearboxes isnt one of my favourite things to do if im honest, find it a bit boring and ive had a few frustrations in the past. i do like the flexible design of this gearbox however that will enable the motor to be mounted horizontal in the firebox 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jol Wilkinson Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 im not overly happy that the brass worm and cog are loose fits on the motor shaft and axle, the instructions say to use loctite but I would have prefered grub screws on them, Im not too keen on the mixing of brass and nylon gears aswel but we'll see how it goes. i do like the flexible design of this gearbox however that will enable the motor to be mounted horizontal in the firebox London Road Models do "swing link" motor mounts, that use steel worms with brass gears. They use a standard LRM 38:1 or 50:1 motor mount and gears with an extra 1:1 stage that swings about the layshaft of the first gear to give a variety of mounting positions. Not as well know as the HL products, they rarely get a mention. I've just noticed that they have disappeared from the LRM online catalogue at www/londonroadmodels.co.uk. I'll have to get that put right. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted February 28, 2012 Author Share Posted February 28, 2012 the instructions also say to glue the shafts to the gearbox frame to prevent them from coming out Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted February 28, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 28, 2012 Looks good Mike, don't worry about mixing brass and nylon, it's really tough stuff, lubricate it with the correct plastics compatible grease, not oil. As for the lay shafts, I usually smear a little Evo-stik on the shaft end, it can soon be removed if necessary. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted February 29, 2012 Author Share Posted February 29, 2012 (edited) thanks Paul. I built up the gearbox and it was too wide for the supplied 00 frame spacers but still narrow enough to allow enough side play. so I tack soldered the gearbox inside the frame, then made my own spacers. this also means the gearbox is tight inside the frame so the gear shafts wont be going anywhere. the bearings on the motor end of the chassis and gearbox had to be filed right down. I cut off the rear shaft of the motor to allow it to fit. the motor is mounted with just a slight angle. then i put the coupling rods on that Chris soldered together for me. I havent put the final brass cog on the axle just yet, so that I can test push it along by hand, its nice and free now, it runs great even without the body on, a good push off through pointwork so should be even better when that boiler is full of lead. the motor and the first 2 gears run very nice too so should run ok when the final brass cog is put in. Mike Edited February 29, 2012 by michael delamar 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted February 29, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 29, 2012 You can fasten the final drive gear on the axle at this stage, remove the motor to test the running by hand. This is quite easy with these gearboxes but normally i much prefer a grubscrew on the final gear. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Certain High Level gear boxes do come with a grub screw on the final gear but they are generally wider designs to give the room for the grub screw. Even in P4 these are generally a bit wide though due to the hornblocks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted February 29, 2012 Author Share Posted February 29, 2012 (edited) ive put the final brass cog on and its now running in, wizzing round quite happy, even tried it up and down on a section of track with one wire from the controller to the rail and one to the motor for now Edited February 29, 2012 by michael delamar Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted March 7, 2012 Author Share Posted March 7, 2012 (edited) I built the tender frame in the club tonight and also made live one side of the tender wheels, Then crudley soldered a temporary wire from the motor to the tender chassis and gave its run on our club test track It performed extremley well, very smooth and responsive I then put loads of lead strip in the boiler and it is a great runner Edited March 7, 2012 by michael delamar Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 (edited) i cannot believe ive missed this, I thought i had lost this on the main brass etch, the mainframe extensions are the next thing to do on the body, now that its running ill be adding the delicate bits now. I was just tidying up the kit box and getting organised and having a look at the brake gear on the nickel fret and i spotted the mainframe extensions. there is 2 matching nickel frets. i feel a right divvy for missing this, i was getting ready to make these from scratch, i hadnt really looked at the nickel fret as i thought these bits where brake gear anyway, i can get on with it now .. Edited March 8, 2012 by michael delamar 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted March 8, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 8, 2012 There's nearly always something for the body on the chassis fret, I always look now, I've made the complex NER bunker top lamp brackets only to find it on the chassis fret... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now