Jump to content
 

A class 73 in P4 for St. Mary Hoo


Guest oldlugger

Recommended Posts

Guest oldlugger

Looking very good Simon.

 

Is there any flex in the third rail pickups when they contact the third rail?

 

Pete

Hello Pete,

 

There doesn't seem to be, but then the downward pressure on them is minimal.

 

Simon

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Simon,

 

Just seen the latest pictures of the '73.  Looking good indeed posed with the body.  There is a lot of 'gubbins' to the fore of the bogies, including a small step.  One you have 'closed the gaps' on the chassis by adding all the bits (in all the right places!), it will look very much like a real machine.

 

The body is ex-Lima I presume. It just goes to show how good its tooling was/still is.  Makes you wonder if a completely different design team worked on the Lima chassis!

 

All the best,

 

Colin

Link to post
Share on other sites

Guest oldlugger

Very true Colin, and yes it is Lima. I've always thought that the Lima body was a fine piece of moulding. It will be interesting to see how Dapol tackle the class 73 variants. It has been tempting at times to abandon this project in the light of the new offering from the big D, but I still think my own version will have a little extra something, and so I have plodded on regardless. There's also the P4 question with the new model; how long, if ever, would it take Ultrascale to produce a replacement wheel set? I'm not proficient enough to modify existing P4 wheels and add gears to them, etc. So my model wins on that alone.

 

Cheers

Simon

Link to post
Share on other sites

Guest oldlugger

The class 73 takes shape. The photo shows the current state of play with the loco; the fuel tank and electrical equipment area is just placed temporarily under the body to give you a rough idea of how the final model will look. Obviously the fuel tank area will be completely rebuilt and turned into a three dimensional structure using the Hornby mouldings as a starting point. Work has already commenced on this, earlier this evening. All the bogie frames are now in place but still need lots of details adding, particularly to the one on the right. This bogie will also have the upper brake hangers trimmed down so that they do not poke above the side frames. The third rail pick ups all need final adjustment and tweaking; something that is impossible until the frames are glued in place. At either end of the loco all the usual myriad of pipes and jumper cables; step boards, couplings, etc will be added. The buffer beam won't be red by the way! It will be painted black and weathered up. Very fine horns will be added to the roof, replacing the plastic versions that reside there at present; these were turned down from brass by Colin Parks and they are very nice indeed. Cheers Colin! The rest of the body will eventually receive see through grills and engine room detailing. I plan to do the brake cylinders (on the stretcher bars) again; these will be smaller and placed correctly adjacent to their respective brakes. I think I've over cooked the existing ones.

 

All the best

Simon

post-1308-0-72969100-1362264975_thumb.jpg

post-1308-0-06129500-1362264987_thumb.jpg

post-1308-0-59809800-1362265009_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Guest oldlugger

As mentioned above, work has now started on the fuel tank area and the results so far can be seen below. Much of the moulding will be ditched and replaced with scratch built parts blending in with the useable Hornby details. The two large bits of plastic at the top of the collection will be binned. The fuel tank itself is the starting point of the conversion and the sides will be re used, with plasticard filling the gaps, making the new unit a whole. All of this and the other new bits will be built up on a plastic base as a sub assembly to fill in the large hole in the chassis where the fuel tank was cut off. This will also support the metal weight that used to reside in the fuel tank recess.

post-1308-0-71520100-1362265198_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Simon,

 

Seeing the cut up 73 chassis detail takes me back to when I did mine.  I'm sure you will have thought of it, but just in case you haven't, it is best to pack as much weight into the re-built fuel tanks as you can. Keeping the weight low down - and plenty of it, will help improve the running qualities of this model no end.

 

Beware too that some of the detail on the mouldings were not all in the right position in relation to the centreline of the chassis, apart from the fuel tanks.  I seem to remember that the rectangular box to the left of the motor -generator is actually one which hangs down on the centre line of the chassis and the corresponding part on the other side of the moulded chassis detail (above the generator in your photo) is actually the other side of the same box!  here is a picture of my rather crude attempt at a 3-D underframe:

 

post-8139-0-43040800-1362316936_thumb.jpg

 

The motor-generator itself will be fun, as it is moulded to full diameter but only 2mm thick.  Probably easier to start again with that.

 

All the best,

 

Colin

Link to post
Share on other sites

Guest oldlugger

You read my mind Colin! I was going to ask you if I could see the underside of your fuel tank area again, so many thanks for posting the photo. Is there any chance you could post views left and right with the loco sitting on its wheels, i.e. the right way up? That would be really helpful.

 

All the best

Simon

Link to post
Share on other sites

You read my mind Colin! I was going to ask you if I could see the underside of your fuel tank area again, so many thanks for posting the photo. Is there any chance you could post views left and right with the loco sitting on its wheels, i.e. the right way up? That would be really helpful.

 

All the best

Simon

Hi Simon,

 

Caution!  That 'box' in mentioned is really the sides of the AWS apparatus - unless I am very much mistaken.  Looking back through photos of the prototype's underframe equipment earlier in your topic, it is clear the 'box' on my 73's chassis is far too wide.

 

post-8139-0-14506400-1362331976_thumb.jpg

 

 

post-8139-0-63499600-1362332009_thumb.jpg

 

 

I have relatively few photos of the loco on its wheels, but  here are some.  I think I sent you these already, but if there is something in particular I'll take some more. 

 

All the best,

 

Colin 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Guest oldlugger

No that's perfect Colin; many thanks for posting them. It's er... quite tricky this bit of the loco!

 

Cheers

Simon

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Simon,

 

I think I forgot to say that the original weights were almost all re-used - not just the ones shown bolted together in these photos. 

 

There is another stack which fits over the top with hole to accomodate the nut and bolt end. In effect, ballast all the way up to just under the loco roof.  Of course, you are going to lose the space in the chassis where these weights were originally placed, so it would be best to add as much ballast within the chassis detaling to compensate: on mine, the fuel tanks are filled with lead, the greater part of the motor-generator and cylinders are turned  brass.  Other sundry 'box' shapes are also filled with lead. 

 

A target of about 350g (it was weighed on the scales in the local shop!) for the complete loco would give you the weight you need to keep the 73 clamped firmly to that lovely P4 track!

 

All the best,

 

Colin

Link to post
Share on other sites

Guest oldlugger
Guest oldlugger

I have to say that this is the most challenging, exasperating model I've ever built/converted... by a long chalk and then some. It continues to drive me round the twist at every stage. Non of it has been easy, not even adding the buffer beam detail which is usually bog standard super detailing. The 73 has so much complexity unlike any other diesel/electric loco and it is extremely hard to replicate. Whether it's just me, or others have experienced this too, I have found that every step has proved to be mega awkward. Tonight was particularly bad, with bits of fine brass wire flying off in all directions (normal for me); one piece actually disappearing completely, only to turn up two hours later inside my sock! How?? Then super glue (yes my old "favourite" substance) decides at the crucial moment not to come out of the tube, but then suddenly splurt a huge dollop onto my fingers welding them together and missing the thing it was supposed to glue! I've also broken so many bits that I've made... repeatedly. Why is it that I can never just get something right? Trying to accurately position things like brake hoses defies every attempt I make with the brass wire having a mind of its own and contorting or breaking with incredible ease and then not ending up where it should. It's all a ruddy nightmare and I just wish I could finish this ######. I wouldn't recommend anyone to attempt what I've done, unless they have a serious need for punishment.

 

Yours frustratedly

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Simon,

 

I can sympathise with you there! 

 

Not that I went to the same heights of fidelity with my 73's underframe conversion, but the area around the buffer beam is particularly daunting at even modest levels of detailing.  Mind you, I did model the buffers with the option for retracted position for MU working or extended for normal coupling.  Needless to say the retracted version is never used.

 

At least you will have the satisfaction of knowing its all there and in the right place when you've done with it.  Perhaps it will be one of the very last Hornby 73 conversions, with the Dapol model not far away for release.

 

As for superglue, I always have a small container to put the tube in and keep it upright between glueing operations.  This helps to avoid the clogging of the nozzle as you have described.  Before replacing the cap on the tube at the end of 'hostilities', it helps to blow sharply onto the end of the tube to drive any liquid glue back into the tube itself. 

 

!   This last operation is obviously not done like blowing a whistle with your lips in contact with the nozzle or you will end up in the french equivalent of A&E with a nastly case of 'tube in mouth' to explain. (Or rather someone else will have to do the talking.)

 

All the best,

 

Colin

Link to post
Share on other sites

Guest oldlugger

The 73 in its BR (SR multiple unit) green guise; as Colin suggested, the chassis could have a choice of bodies. I couldn't decide which livery I liked the most (blue or green) so this seemed a good solution as I don't intend building another chassis! Not on your Nelly! So this is the way I'm going; the green loco will have very light weathering on the body work with a well weathered chassis; the blue loco will be pretty grubby with the, surprise, surprise, well weathered chassis! I will make improvements to both bodies over time, but for now I'm just happy to have a detailed and realistic chassis. I have started work on the blue body, adding some very finely turned brass air horns (courtesy of Colin - many thanks again Colin!) and touching up some details with paint. The underframe is now complete and was painted today in a basic brake dust colour, ready for detail paint weathering. This coming week I will finish off the bogies and paint them too.

 

Cheers

Simon

post-1308-0-82827700-1363551465_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Guest oldlugger

E6001 conducting running trials on the Hoo Peninsula. In the first photo the third rail pick ups of the loco can be seen mounting one of the conductor rail side exit ramps (out of view). If you download the photo you'll get a much enlarged version. The second photo shows the loco resting on the head shunt/loco stabling siding at St. Mary Hoo station. The pick ups are raised on the furthest bogie from the camera.

post-1308-0-68964300-1363552818_thumb.jpg

post-1308-0-52315500-1363553475_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Guest oldlugger

I haven't commented on the 'green or blue' debate but (and it's against my better judgement) I think a green JA would make a cracking model... when was the last green loco repainted?

 

Cheers

 

Griff

Cheers Griff. I'm not sure to be honest. The real E6001 (now preserved) was involved in a crash at Wimbledon in the late 60's and it was in BR blue then (possibly chromatic blue like the modern "Perserverance" loco). The loco was hauling a goods train and passed a red signal smashing into a stationary 2 EPB in the station.

 

All the best

Simon

Link to post
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×
×
  • Create New...