MTK class 419 MLV advice needed

[jetmorgan]

I've bought an old MTK bodykit for the class 419 MLV (less the motor bogie, wheels and interior) as part of a job lot and having a cursory glance over it it looks like a challenging build, probably why it was being sold!!! Anyway I want to have a go at things so I have a number of questions:-

 

1. What is the best motor bogie to use for this kit? or is there now an off the shelf alternative to use for the chassis with the CEP, VEP and EPB's that have now been released

 

2. In the instructions there is no mention of where to drill holes to fit the bogies to the floor, where should they go?

 

3. The white metal ends are a little warped/bent, I'm hesitant about trying to bend the parts back into shape as I know white metal is very brittle, Is there a way to bend the parts back into shape or is it just better to fill and file?

 

4. The parts for the jumper cables aren't that great so are there alternatives from the aftermarket or ready to run suppliers?

 

Any further advice on building one of these kits will be much appreciated.

[Welly]

Ermmm... if I were you, I wouldn't bother assembling the MTK kit at all but pre-order a Bachmann MLV from your favourite supplier instead!

 

Sorry to be blunt but I had an MTK kit for a class 313 EMU and the whole kit was cack! The whitemetal ends were distorted and rough looking, the aluminium sides were not bent to the correct profile and no thought appeared to have been given by the kit maker as to how the bodysides would be attached to the chassis. I have since despatched the sides for recycling and the whitemetal castings will eventually be melted down for weights.

[Ceptic]

Ermmm... if I were you, I wouldn't bother assembling the MTK kit at all but pre-order a Bachmann MLV from your favourite supplier instead!

 

Sorry to be blunt but I had an MTK kit for a class 313 EMU and the whole kit was cack! The whitemetal ends were distorted and rough looking, the aluminium sides were not bent to the correct profile and no thought appeared to have been given by the kit maker as to how the bodysides would be attached to the chassis. I have since despatched the sides for recycling and the whitemetal castings will eventually be melted down for weights.

 

My thoughts, entirely.

 

If I went for a DIY (Kit) version, I'd go for the Bits'n Pieces offered by Replica Railways,...

http://www.replicarailways.co.uk/

 

Replica did advertise a RTR, Cl.419 MLV, at least, a couple of years ago, but, it seems, this is now to be over-taken by Bachmann's.

 

I did manage to put together an MTK Bulleid multi-door BSK, back in the '70s, but that was only after binning the ends, u/f & bogies.

At the time, I also bought a MTK Bulleid 'Tavern Set', looked in the box, decided it was 'Beyond all Hope', and, returned kit to sender.

 

Regards.

[Xerces Fobe2]

Replica Railways body £9.20 + P&P http://www.replicarailways.co.uk/spares-and-accessories/spares

 

XF

[hayfield]

If you like a challange and like modelling, then have a go at building it. I guess most RTR motor bogies of the correct wheelbase could be used but you will have to find a way of fixing it to a chassis. Dont be tempted to buy a MTK motor bogie (they come up on Ebay) as they are worse quility than the bodies. Also a High Level unit will be fine as would a Black Beatle or Tenshido motor bogies.

 

You would in all cases have to make your own arrangements to fit the bogies to the chassis and side frames to the motor bogies. The Black Beatles and Tenshido units are relative simple to install as I guess would be the High Level unit.

 

Dunking the Whitemetal casting into boiling water may make bending it back into shape easier, but plenty of filing and filling will be needed if its anything like the castings in the DMU units I have built.

 

Craftsman used to do parts for diesels & Multiple units