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Freight car wheels?


PhilM

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Can anyone clarify what cars havee 33in and what cars have 36in wheels?

 

And what are peoples opinions on the best make of wheels to run on poorly laid code 100 track and which slot straight into a wide range of models including Athearn BB?

 

Thanks

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Bit of a can of worms. As a rough rule of thumb, for modern cars 100t have 36inch wheels, whilst 70t have 33 inch wheels. But, wells and others will be different again. And there will probably be exceptions to that general rule. I think as one goes further back in time, smaller (33inch) wheels become more common - say on 40 foot cars.

 

Don't be fooled into thinking the wheels in BB kits will be the right size - most I've seen came with 33 inch wheels irrespective of the prototype.

 

I'll leave it to others to suggest favorite wheels - I rarely buy cars nowadays that don't have metal wheels, and if I do they get swapped out for Branchline whilst my stocks last.

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Jon's rule of thumb is a pretty good starting place - i'd add that 125t cars can have 38"s - so things like articulated well car sets (Athearn Maxi-III for instance) are fun - 33" wheels (70t truck) on the outside ends and 38" wheels (125t truck) on the articulated joints. ;)

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The wheel size is related to capacity and clearance restrictions.

 

Cars less than 90 tons have 33" wheels. Cars of 90-125 tons have 36" wheels. 125 ton & over can use 38" wheels. high profile cars may have 28" wheels.

 

As far as the best wheels for bad track, don't use semi-scale or scale wheelsets, they have a narrower tread so are more likely to drop in. i would also stick with RP25 flanges (or equivalent). The old pizza cutter flanges can cause problems in switches or hit spike heads and ballast.

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I usually replace like-for-like, so most stock now gets Kadee 33" or 36" wheelsets. I did have a stock of Intermountain 33" which seemed to suit poor track a little better, but lacked the detail of the Kadee wheelsets.

 

I'd love to know how poor the OP's track is, I used to have a HO layout with 12" radius curves and found that once cars were set up correctly with the right amount of weight and space for the trucks to turn, running qualities were good.

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Ref Intermountains, I always got the impression they were somewhat heavier than most axles, so rode a little better due to that, might be my supposition though! ;)

 

If you use magnetic couplers then don't get Exactrail ones, assuming they are the same wheels on their RTR cars then the wheels are magnetic. They are lovely wheelsets otherwise though, I tend to swap them for ones in cars that don't get used in switching service.

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Ref Intermountains, I always got the impression they were somewhat heavier than most axles, so rode a little better due to that, might be my supposition though! ;)

 

You're right about them being heavier than most, but I never really found the car rolled with more inertia because of them.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just to hijack this thread with a query of my own.

 

Which cars used smooth backs and which ribbed backs? And why the difference?

 

steve (who bought 100 Code 88 Exactrail 36" wheels he can't use on his stock because they are out of period.)

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The ribs were there for reinforcement of the cast iron wheels to keep them from deforming during the manufacturing process that produces the very hard but very brittle 'chilled iron' wheel. Cast iron wheels were outlawed for interchange in the late 1950s sometime and banned outright in the 1960s I believe. Being very hard but brittle they have a nasty habit of coming apart at inopportune times. Steel wheels are not as brittle and not made the same way so no ribs needed.

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