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Pointwork Advice.


Melly

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Well, at some stage you need to cut your teeth and you need to make your own mistakes!! I'm building my first set of pointwork in FB; a curved point leading into a diamond crossing. I'm using C+L thick timbers with strategically placed copper clad for strength and peco pandrol clips.

Despite much googling and a trawl through the 'book' (approach to building finescale track) I cannot find a decent source of labelling of a FB point to identify some 'bits' I have questions on.

 

Image linked here: http://nigelburkin.f...at-4a-4b-21.jpg

 

Q1 - what are those 'links' between the stock rail and closure rails for? Are they typical for FB pointwork? From what time period?

 

Q 2 - What are the square looking 'chairs' used on the outside of the toe area of the point. Are they available in 4mm or is it time for square plasticard!!

Further image here: http://www.derekhayw...9CSSnv&lb=1&s=A

 

Appreciate the help guys - this is the start of a big project for me - results will be posted in due time.

 

Thanks

 

Melly

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I am not sure if this is what you are after, but Brassmasters http://www.brassmasters.co.uk/track_details.htm do an etch for various types of baseplates used with flatbottom rail. I think MRJ has had articles describing how these etching can be used, but I don't know which issues.

I can't help on your first query, as I cannot really make out the links you are referring to. As the picture seems to show a bullhead point with third rail, I wonder if the links are something to do with the prototype's electrical connections, and nothing to do with the turnout itself.

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To answer Q1 in the OP - those links are to secure the fixed ends of the blades to the stock rails because FB stock rails are harder to bend than BH stock rails so yes they are typical of FB turnouts.

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Q1. Those are spacer blocks for strengthening, to prevent relative movement between stock rail and closure, common in FB since around the 70s, not usually seen in BH.

Q2. Those are the slide chairs which are bolted to the rail, the vertical part has to clear the rail foot hence they look bigger than those used for BH.

Colin Craig may have suitable parts.

Keith

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I know Peco used to produce the slide chairs suitable for flat bottom rail but I'm not sure if they still do. I bought a few packs around 2 years ago so if they don't produce them anymore, some model shops may still have some kicking around.

 

Cheers

 

Martin

 

EDIT: Kernow have some in stock at http://www.kernowmodelrailcentre.com/product/28213/IL113_Peco_Individulay_Slide_Rail_Baseplates_for_Code_82_rail

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A big thank you to those that replied and all those whom have contributed to this section of the forum. Having 'leached' as much information as I can it's now time to 'walk-the-walk'.

 

Not one for taking the easy route I'll be cutting my teeth (and hopefully not fingers and thumbs) on this section of trackwork; A curved LH point into a curved diamond crossing, all in FB rail!!

 

post-6870-0-31381000-1331593355_thumb.jpg

 

Tonight has been spent having a bash at making my first V. The first attempt was pants (Top in picture); the second much better and probably good enough to probably be used. Just waiting for a few supplies to arrive (A vice !!) before I crack on any further.

 

post-6870-0-50415200-1331593504_thumb.jpg

 

so far so good........

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Guest jim s-w

Hi Melly

 

It looks like you are not quite assembling your vee correctly. I hope the below diagram helps

 

Cheers

 

Jim

 

vee%20diagram.jpg

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Hi Melly

 

It looks like you are not quite assembling your vee correctly. I hope the below diagram helps

 

Cheers

 

Jim

 

vee%20diagram.jpg

Jim beat me too it but do follow his advice and drawing on this because after doing it the wrong way on my first V I found it so much easier doing it the correct way.

 

Got it - thanks guys. The supplies arrived from Expo Tools this morning so I can have a proper go later.

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Not one for taking the easy route I'll be cutting my teeth (and hopefully not fingers and thumbs) on this section of trackwork; A curved LH point into a curved diamond crossing, all in FB rail!!

 

Hi Melly,

 

Looking at your pic I think you may have printed the Templot template as the rail head only? If you have downloaded the latest Templot2 TDV, you can now print templates for FB to show the rail foot also. This makes it much easier to align FB rail over the template.

 

2_090505_030000000.png

 

Click the real > rails > head and foot (flat-bottom rails) menu option for each template.

 

For accuracy, set the foot width to match your rail section, at real > rails > rail section data... menu item, for each template.

 

If you are using functional chairs with inclined rails, you can set the rail cant angle (normally 1:20 or 3 degrees), and Templot will adjust the rail foot position accordingly.

 

You can change an entire track plan to these settings in one go by clicking the real > rails > modify group to match menu item.

 

edit: p.s. the above print is for light-rail FB with bent check rail flares. For heavy-rail FB with machined flares, click the real > rails > flared ends machined menu option.

 

regards,

 

Martin.

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  • 1 month later...

Well, at some stage you need to cut your teeth and you need to make your own mistakes!! I'm building my first set of pointwork in FB; a curved point leading into a diamond crossing. I'm using C+L thick timbers with strategically placed copper clad for strength and peco pandrol clips.

Despite much googling and a trawl through the 'book' (approach to building finescale track) I cannot find a decent source of labelling of a FB point to identify some 'bits' I have questions on.

 

Image linked here: http://nigelburkin.f...at-4a-4b-21.jpg

 

Q1 - what are those 'links' between the stock rail and closure rails for? Are they typical for FB pointwork? From what time period?

 

Q 2 - What are the square looking 'chairs' used on the outside of the toe area of the point. Are they available in 4mm or is it time for square plasticard!!

Further image here: http://www.derekhayw...9CSSnv&lb=1&s=A

 

The best thing is to go out and have a look! Then just copy what you see.

 

Bearing in mind my previous job, I'm happy to try and answer any questions - and if I don't know I normally know someone who does!

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A thank you to those who provided advice. A sit-rep!

 

Two sets of turnouts/crossings have been completed and I have learned a whole host of lessons from the mistakes I made. BUT...ultimately I proved I did have the skills & knowledge to have a go and actually make something that looked and ran okay. BUT...they are destined to be dismantled and part recycled. Why? Well, the 'signature' part of the layout is going to be the junction area and I want all of the curves to transition nicely with each other and I want to build this section as 'a-oner!' and then cut for board joins & point insulation etc afterward.

 

SO.. Lessons learnt:

 

I now have all the required tools for the job!

 

An oo-gauge back-to-back is not necessarily an OO-gauge back-to-back. Get a cheap digital calliper from ebay!

 

You CAN plan points too big....The point after the crossover had the longest switch setting that TEMPLOT would allow. In practice, as a curved point this did not work well for me and I struggled to get the blades to sit right. I have since amended the whole plan and reduced switch lengths as required.

 

You don't need fancy jigs for filing rails etc (although I’m sure they help). A Vice on the workbench, a good set of files and a steady hand and some patience worked okay for me.

 

Pre-curve your rails in advance for curved pointwork! NOTE - be careful with FB rail as if this is done through your fingers it can create a similar effect to paper-cuts! Ouch!

 

Don’t use a single piece of double-sided tape between the rails to secure the sleepers to the plan; they can rotate during constructing and end up off centre. Use two thin strips placed on the edge of the sleeper ends. If you place over the running rails it can obscured the plan, which then makes rail positioning on pointwork problematic!

 

Sleepers, rails and to some degree chairs can all be recycled. Yes some may have some scoring on them but after weathering this should not be noticeable.

 

And don't rush! Getting peed off - walk away and come back later.

 

So for me. Another day or so with TEMPLOT fine tuning the plan (breakdown between FB and BH sections, tidying up the transition curves etc) and then off to get some Birch ply for board construction. I'm confident that I can produce reasonably pointwork with the lessons I've learnt and the advice provided on here.

 

Thanks again.

M

 

EDIT... What I'll be trying to create!

 

post-6870-0-11861300-1335608020_thumb.jpg

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