Assembly time

[Julia]

How long does it take for people to assemble the various kits? I have been working on the Low relief warehouse model now on and off for months, It seems that the cutting of 2mm thick card really takes it out of your fingers, no matter how new the scalpel blade is, and this limits the amount I can do on anyone evening. Has anyone else found this? Or am I just being a wimp?

 

J

[Lady_Ava_Hay]

Using a scalpel for cutting card is very hard on the hands. You would do better to invest in a box cutter which is basically a Stanley knife with snap off blades. Also use a cutting mat and a straight edge. since investing in such kit I have not suffered with cramp or seized hands.

 

You could use the scalpel blades for the tiny freehand cutting of corners and rebates but even so the pressure needed to cut thick card is just not possible with the narrow and small handle.

 

Not a wimp, then, just the wrong tools for the job.

[BR60103]

I used to be able to assemble a basic Superquick kit in one or two evenings, sitting in front of the TV. Now that I'm retired it seems to take me years.

 

Does anyone have a use for X-Acto blades that are just dull for 1/8" right at the tip? Will they peel potatoes?

[Metalhip]

I find the cutting out,especially the base layers with all the window and door openings very tedious and time consuming especially as I model N gauge with some of the extremely narrow base layers,it's even worse when two thicknesses of card need sticking together to get the right thickness.

 

My intention is to build Scalescenes card models and also start scratch building my own designs.To this end I've just invested in a Silhouette Cameo cutter and now I just shove a printed A4 sheet in to it and get a kit of parts back out,it also means that when I make the inevitable mistake that needs a new print out which I'd have to do anyway,it's also a new set of parts ready for glueing.Curves are no problem to cut out either.

 

I'm building the goods shed at the moment and it's going together far better and more accurately than when I hand cut the parts.

If you've got anyone in your family that does crafting it's a very handy tool.

 

Allan

[kandc_au]

 

 

My intention is to build Scalescenes card models and also start scratch building my own designs.To this end I've just invested in a Silhouette Cameo cutter and now I just shove a printed A4 sheet in to it and get a kit of parts back out,it also means that when I make the inevitable mistake that needs a new print out which I'd have to do

Allan

 

Allan, Could you post details of this cutter please?

Website?

 

Khris

[Job's Modelling]

To complete a building takes my in OO a long time.

For me modelling isn't about time, but is about how to make my head empty.

So I do modelling every evening about 1 hour.

That is one of the nice thing about the Scalescene kits. You can do small parts at a time.

For cutting I ues Stanley knifes with snap off blades, a 9 mm and a 16 mm one for card.

For small thin parts I use a scalpel.

 

Regards,

Job

[PhilEakins]

Allan, Could you post details of this cutter please?

Website?

 

Khris

 

I've just invested in one of these machines last week - the Silhouette SD from http://www.graphtecgb.co.uk/.

 

The SD model has been superseded by the 'Silhouette Cameo' but is still available as 'B' grade machines, which are factory checked returns of machines bought on the shopping channel, at a great saving (over £100!).

 

The main problem from our point of view is that the maximum depth of cut is 0.3 mil.

 

Phil

[Metalhip]

I've just invested in one of these machines last week - the Silhouette SD from http://www.graphtecgb.co.uk/.

 

The SD model has been superseded by the 'Silhouette Cameo' but is still available as 'B' grade machines, which are factory checked returns of machines bought on the shopping channel, at a great saving (over £100!).

 

The main problem from our point of view is that the maximum depth of cut is 0.3 mil.

 

Phil

My Silhouette Cameo is happily cutting 160gsm plus 210gsm card laminated together and that's just shy of 0.5mm,and the blade is only on number six.,so for 1mm card I laminate two components together and if I need 2mm thick I just glue four components together.Not a problem when it's so easy to make accurate multiple parts.

 

Got mine a bit cheaper here.........

http://www.mdpsuppli...cameo-packs.asp

 

Allan

[rodshaw]

Having a sharp blade helps immensely. It's amazing how quickly they wear out just cutting card, even the sturdy ones with my old-style Stanley knife.

 

I made the Scalescenes warehouse in 3mm scale and I was glad when it was over.

[Phil Howe]

I've been considering the Silhouette Cameo, but it's a big investment for me, especially if it doesn't do what I need it to.

 

Thanks to Allan and Phil above for contributing. Can I ask whether either of you have found any major limitations, apart from the obvious one of cutting thickness? I had figured that I might need to do a bit of lamination to build up thickness but, as Allan says, if the parts are identical and accurate, that's no problem. Do the blades need to be changed frequently when cutting card?

 

I was thinking of the Silhouette on Create & Craft here: http://www.createandcraft.tv/silhouette-cameo.aspx

 

If you're a member of the club (£20/year I believe) you get 10% discount, saving £30, and the advantage of paying by 3 monthly instalments to spread the cost.

 

Cheers

 

Phil

 

 

[Phil Howe]

...oh, and, apparently you get £10 to spend when you join Create and Craft - every little helps.

[Metalhip]

Hi Phil,

 

I've only had mine a couple of weeks so I can't answer about blade life I'm afraid.

 

The machine is a bit noisy but not too bad on slower cutting speeds,I get my images ready in some photo editing software to rearrange and or duplicate some parts on one sheet and then export the cutting files as PNG files,resolution 300.

 

The supplied software is upgraded to the latest version by a download and gives a bit more cutting room on an A4 sheet,it's all icon driven and the learning curve is fairly short.

You open the image in the software and then trace the cutting lines on to it, it goes to quite a magnification so it's easy to see what you are doing.

 

Have a look on the web,there's loads of videos about it,then decide.It is a fairly big expense,but compared with putting fuel in the car it's not so bad and it's made my life easier because I've got to start from scratch as regards required buildings and........there are no pockets in shrouds so spend it while you can I say.

 

Allan

[PhilEakins]

I've been considering the Silhouette Cameo, but it's a big investment for me, especially if it doesn't do what I need it to.

 

Thanks to Allan and Phil above for contributing. Can I ask whether either of you have found any major limitations, apart from the obvious one of cutting thickness? I had figured that I might need to do a bit of lamination to build up thickness but, as Allan says, if the parts are identical and accurate, that's no problem. Do the blades need to be changed frequently when cutting card?

 

I was thinking of the Silhouette on Create & Craft here: http://www.createand...ette-cameo.aspx

 

If you're a member of the club (£20/year I believe) you get 10% discount, saving £30, and the advantage of paying by 3 monthly instalments to spread the cost.

 

Cheers

 

Phil

 

Hi Phil

 

I've only had mine a matter of days so I can't advise more than I have.

 

However, it's a heavy investment and I deliberately went for the 'cheap' option to try the system out. An extra £100 seems a lot to pay for a 0.2mm increase in cutter depth, although you do get a bigger cut-out area.

 

Phil

[Phil Howe]

Thanks for the input chaps

 

I probably will go for one in a month or so; I've already got an amber light from my "Finance Manager" who can see the benefits in her crafts/cardmaking too.

 

Cheers

 

Phil

[George Hudson]

How long does it take for people to assemble the various kits? I have been working on the Low relief warehouse model now on and off for months, It seems that the cutting of 2mm thick card really takes it out of your fingers, no matter how new the scalpel blade is, and this limits the amount I can do on anyone evening. Has anyone else found this? Or am I just being a wimp?

 

J

My suggestion is much more low tech butalso green. I have stuck scalescenes kits to cardboard from conflake packets. This is not my discovery but a tried and tested material easy to cut, freely available and free!

Andrew

[gary yemm]

Hi Guys

 

I still use a craft blade to cut my mounting card when I am scratchbuilding as I find it the best for my self

and a building from start to finish may take a couple of months on and off.

 

Kind Regards Gary

[stewartingram]

I used to be able to assemble a basic Superquick kit in one or two evenings, sitting in front of the TV. Now that I'm retired it seems to take me years.

 

Does anyone have a use for X-Acto blades that are just dull for 1/8" right at the tip? Will they peel potatoes?

You could try resharpening them regularly on a stone.....mine last until I drop them and break the tip off, and I keep them sharper than when new.

 

Stewart

[Chubber]

I used to be able to assemble a basic Superquick kit in one or two evenings, sitting in front of the TV. Now that I'm retired it seems to take me years.

 

Does anyone have a use for X-Acto blades that are just dull for 1/8" right at the tip? Will they peel potatoes?

 

Despite Stewart's advice above re using a stone, I have found very fine wet and dry paper gives me a perfect edge, with the advantage that you can keep a piece in your box/on the bench without having oil about.* I use 1000 grit and also Crocus paper which can actually give a mirror-like finish.

 

You could always grind off the last 1/8"!

 

Doug

 

 

*SWMBO has put a banning order on mineral oil in the 'house', I don't understand it, it was an old tablecloth anyway......and I'm too lazy to go down the cellar!

[theoldmansminion]

i've migrated from the cellar, and now have pride of place under the stairs, oh the lucky minion.

 

stanleys all the way, scapels, are just to skimpy, except for windows and needing a real clean edge, or where butting up 2 papers together.

 

for me a low relief warehouse, after reading instructions 3 or 4 times, took about 2 hours to construct ...ish, half hour to weather, pasteing all the paper on card takes the time, probably a couple of hours here, and triple this, if you want to make it a full model, with back, fire exit...windows etc, the time just vanishes, trying to work out, what needs to go where.

 

to get those real neat, straight cuts, on 1mm or 2 mm card, takes 3 pulls of the blade, 6 or 7 on the 2 mm, as it pinches the blade the deeper you cut, i would change the blade, pretty much as soon as it starts to tarnish, you can clearly see the blunting, as soon as it gets up about 3 mm up the blade, it looks quite scored.

the stan i change after 2 sides of a building on average, obviuosly depending on how many windows and doors need to be cut out.

 

my little 9mm, i snap off the blade, as soon as the whole segment is tarnished, once an hour or so.

 

i did the scalescenes low relief shops, all 5, took about 2 weeks to do, but they have been lit up, added full roofs, front and back, which added quite a bit of time. used about a dozen stan blades, and 3 lengths of the 9mm snap off blades

 

hope this helps

[Metalhip]

I've been considering the Silhouette Cameo, but it's a big investment for me, especially if it doesn't do what I need it to.

 

Phil

 

Hi Phil,

 

Apart from run of the mill cutting out I've done some windows for a N gauge signal box today.

I've been doing the signal box while waiting for the glue to set on the engine shed, I'm not keen on the black windows printed on OHP film and decided to try printing some coloured ones on an A4 label and then sticking them to the OHP film.

I've not measured the mullions or transoms but they're quite fine,cut all 112 panes out in about five minutes and the finished windows will glue in place with a spot of ordinary PVA glue.

 

 

Allan

[Phil Howe]

Hi Allan

 

Thanks for posting these photos. The windows look great, especially when you realise they are in N.

 

You're certainly helping me to decide where my pocket money's going

 

Cheers

 

Phil

[Metalhip]

Hi Phil,

 

If you decide to get one I'll post the blade and speed settings I've used for various card and paper,it'll give you a starting point.

 

It's not clear in the pic,but the top red frames are stuck on a piece of OHP ready for cutting to size.

 

Allan

[noiseboy72]

I also use one of the Craft Robos - one of the older ones that only cuts to about 0.3mm.

 

One word of warning on some of the shopping channel returns, they sold a model without print registration reading. This means you cannot print and cut accurately.

 

I found the choice of card to be important as well. A smooth card may print better, but cheaper card cuts better! I now use Rymans art card, as this appears to be a less dense texture and the cuts are much finer.

 

Blades should last a few months of intensive use. Clean them by wiping at an angle on a piece of foil cleans all the microscopic rubbish off the blade. I use my daughter's microscope to inspect them and find the usual issue is damage to the tips caused by cutting too deeply into the cutting mat.

 

I actually use a piece of photo paper with spray mount as the cutting mat, as this is more forgiving to the blade, and easier to extract delicate pieces from.

[Phil Howe]

Thanks Noiseboy72; some good tips there.

 

I'll make sure to check the one I eventually go for has the ability to see registration marks. Also a good idea with the photo paper, the replacement cutting sheets seem to be extremely expensive if you buy the "proper" ones. I've also heard of people buying the cheap translucent plastic A4 folders from stationers and using the front and back as a cutting carrier.

 

Allan: I would appreciate you posting your settings, I'm sure they would be useful to others too - there seem to be a few machine users around, and I'm hoping to get mine at the end of April

 

Cheers

 

Phil

[Black Sheep]

diving in at the end quickly so appologies if this has already been said

 

cutting card with a knife blade blunts it quicker than carving soft wood or cutting plastic.

 

it's easiest when cutting card to make many light passes, gradually working your way through the card pass by pass, you also get less chance of snagging and crumpling the card or any paper glued to it.