F-UnitMad Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Watch out Jordan (F-UnitMad)! I dunno what you mean..... I'm impressed by people who can really detail HO models well... after doing O Scale for a few years, HO seems so tiny..!!! However needs must, and I've been getting back into HO recently, but I'm a bit ambivalent about detailing models to within an inch of their lives... it tends to make 'em a bit fragile, I think, especially with today's plastic handrails (yuk!!)... then again having an enthusiastic but not too gentle 8-year-old accomplice doesn't help, either, so although I'm doing these old Athearn Blue Box SW1500s as Progressive Rail locos, I'm not adding much extra to them beyond the very obvious such as all-weather windows, an A/C unit on #37, and spark arrestors (scratchbuilt, slightly too big and not for Purists!!)... .. oh, and don't even ask about the 'ditch lights'.... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_long Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Jon, something that seems to have happenned to lots of old GP35s is de-turboing them and upgrading the insides to something akin to a GP38-2, one possible mod would be putting an air filter box and 'normal' exhaust stacks on the top in place of the turbo-style one. Might be a good mod to depict 'old and messed about with'? Thats what I'm currently in the middle of with my GP38-3, removing all signs of the GP50 turbos. You seem to have 2 choices for the exhaust hatch, there's a Atlas spares part but that doesnt have a plate bottom, like the other option which is a Cannon part. I need the Atlas one as I dont need the plate, but a lot of the 38-2s did have plates. Thanks for those photos Tony, they'll help a little with my NS 38-3, if by any chance your ever out fanning and get a chance for a few roof shots of a NS 38-3, I'm still trying to figure out if the removed middle fan is plated over with a round piece or a rectangular/square plate of metal, personally I'm of the opinion that its the latter, I've zoomed in on as many photos as I can find but things get too blurred to be 100% about it. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Gwinnett Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Jon, something that seems to have happenned to lots of old GP35s is de-turboing them and upgrading the insides to something akin to a GP38-2, one possible mod would be putting an air filter box and 'normal' exhaust stacks on the top in place of the turbo-style one. Might be a good mod to depict 'old and messed about with'? Like this you mean? I've been contemplating it, if I can find a GP38 blister that will fit. This one is from another sacrificial loco - an Atlas Trainman CP GP38-2. I'd have to do something about the colour though... The inspiration for the GP35 is the FWWR GP38-3s which have been modified as you suggest. Thats what I'm currently in the middle of with my GP38-3, removing all signs of the GP50 turbos. You seem to have 2 choices for the exhaust hatch, there's a Atlas spares part but that doesnt have a plate bottom, like the other option which is a Cannon part. I need the Atlas one as I dont need the plate, but a lot of the 38-2s did have plates. Thanks for those photos Tony, they'll help a little with my NS 38-3, if by any chance your ever out fanning and get a chance for a few roof shots of a NS 38-3, I'm still trying to figure out if the removed middle fan is plated over with a round piece or a rectangular/square plate of metal, personally I'm of the opinion that its the latter, I've zoomed in on as many photos as I can find but things get too blurred to be 100% about it. Dave Dave, what's a plate bottom? Would my 38-2 part work for you? Its a beautiful warm (relatively - 11c) and sunny day here in Scotland so I have washed and primed the GP35: I used a primer which I'd not tried before, but I had read good things about it on t'interweb. Rust-oleum Plastic Primer. Recommended for those vinylly plastic soldiers we all had as kids, I thought it might work for the bendy handrails. I have to say that so far I'm impressed - laid on a very smooth opaque matt finish, which seems to have shrunk down well into all the details. We will have to wait and see how well it takes the top-coat, but so far its all good. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_long Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Jon. Probably badly worded by me but DA make this http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/229-2402 that has plate around the base but the Atlas part doesn't have this. I need the one without. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glorious NSE Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 That's the kind of thing Jon - that's the angled version but it can also be a rather boxy affair. I suspect they're unlikely to have physically changed the dynamic brakes out as well which is why you sometimes get a 'sharp' end to the dynamics where they have cut in the filter box. The dynamic bulges vary between types so I think i'd start from the Kato hatch (so keeping the correct GP35 dynamic section) and add a filter box from Cannon who do that angled style: http://shop.cannonandco.net/product.sc?productId=88&categoryId=15 - or if you have one around cut one off a spare GP38-2/GP38 hatch from Atlas or Athearn? Then add exhausts in the same position as that GP38-2 Undercoat seems to have gone on very well! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Gwinnett Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 (edited) Gotcha Dave - can't help there I'm afraid. I'll have another look at the prototype photos Martyn and decide which way i want to go. Edited March 22, 2012 by Jon Gwinnett Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_long Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Thats ok Jon, I can get them off ebay.com for a couple of $s. I too have heard good things about the rustoleum range, it looks a decent covering, slightly finer looking than you get with halfords, and light permitting does look lighter than halfords too, which is a good thing I think. Regards Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Gwinnett Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Thats ok Jon, I can get them off ebay.com for a couple of $s. I too have heard good things about the rustoleum range, it looks a decent covering, slightly finer looking than you get with halfords, and light permitting does look lighter than halfords too, which is a good thing I think. Regards Dave The Rust-oleum certainly seems to go on well. I would say its on a par with Halfords for finish - I haven't tried Halfords in white (do they do it?) and choose the white Rust-oleum as I want a white stripe round this loco - figured white and yellow would cover better and have more punch on a white rather than grey base. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_long Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Yes halfords do a white but I always avoided it for some reason. I like their grey but tended to use tamiya white primer. From the BR. warning panels I've painted I have never had success with yellow over grey primer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Gwinnett Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Does anyone know of a source for dimensions and/or drawings of parts like the GP38-2 filter boxes? - I know I could copy from another model, but I'm always wary of doing that in case I'm copying an error. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CraigZ Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 Does anyone know of a source for dimensions and/or drawings of parts like the GP38-2 filter boxes? - I know I could copy from another model, but I'm always wary of doing that in case I'm copying an error. Of the prototype part? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Gwinnett Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 yes - it's a pretty plain boxy shape so I reckon I could scratch one up from styrene - but I don't want to copy say an Atlas GP38-2 if there are dimensional errors. I'd rather scale down from the prototype if possible. I guess a Cannon part might be reliable, but still seems risky compared to working from the real thing. But no GP38-2's for several thousand miles so no chance of measuring one myself! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_long Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 I have a cannon angled filter box ( unbuilt kit ) I could measure if your search doesn't turn up any drawings. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Gwinnett Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 Cheers Dave. I've ordered some of those exhaust stacks but wonder if, as you need ones without the plate, a piece of brass tube crimped would give a nice thin section? not sure what size you'd need to use though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_long Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 (edited) I've got these on order though http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=251023416589 I'd probably waste most a tube making them. Edited March 24, 2012 by dave_long Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Gwinnett Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 I've got these on order though http://cgi.ebay.co.u...em=251023416589 I'd probably waste most a tube making them. I certainly would! I do find the low price of US detailing parts deters me from trying to scratchbuild. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CraigZ Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 Jon, the Cannon PAF box will be dead nuts on for your GP38-2 unless it's some sort of backwoods homebuild box. You're wise casting a wary eye on the Atlas GP38-2 as it's know to have dimensional errors; ditto for the Proto 2000 GP38-2. Stacks - the Atlas GP38s and GP38-2s stacks have the base/flange cast onto the shell, thus no flange on the stack part itself. I don't like to question your info but are you certain your prototype lacks any sort of flange at the base of the stacks? Even the later flush-mount circular EMD stacks have a flange that secures the stack itself to the top of the car body. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Gwinnett Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 Thanks Craig. Maybe I'll try and order a Cannon filter, but in the meantime (and in deference to my current lack of employment!) if Dave wouldn't mind measuring his that would be great. I can't speak for which stacks Dave needs for the ex GP50 - but since mine is freelance I'm going with the stacks with a base flange. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Grant 4472 Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 Jon, something that seems to have happenned to lots of old GP35s is de-turboing them and upgrading the insides to something akin to a GP38-2, one possible mod would be putting an air filter box and 'normal' exhaust stacks on the top in place of the turbo-style one. Might be a good mod to depict 'old and messed about with'? BN bought a load of old GP35s and GP30s, re-engined them and called them GP39-Es, GP39-Ms and GP39-Vs, depending on where the rebuilding work was done. I have done a couple, as seen in this vido Jon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 Cinemascope! I like it! Best, Pete. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parthia27 Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 BN bought a load of old GP35s and GP30s, re-engined them and called them GP39-Es, GP39-Ms and GP39-Vs, depending on where the rebuilding work was done Scary, I've just been looking at the July / August 2008 ssue of Diesel Era which covers all of BN's GP30 / GP35 Rebuilds. Must dig out an old P2K GP30 I've got in the loft....... Cheers Chris PS Excellent models and Video btw 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
warbonnetuk Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 (edited) Favorite of the BN rebuilds were the GP30's that had their original beetlebrow cab replaced with a standard EMD cab Dan Edited March 25, 2012 by warbonnetuk Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prof Klyzlr Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 Dear RMWebbers, The following PDFs outline some of the mods I foistered on Atlas Alco S-series switchers, and a Kato NW2, to more closely represent the locos on the NYCH circa 1999. Also ended up with a SW1500 in UP colors, which was intended to be mod'd into 1133 as purchased by NYCH. Unfortunately, a morbid fear of painting and decalling has stalled the project, and the Athearn loco is still wearing the "1136" number it came with ex-factory... Anywho... http://carendt.us/scrapbook/page87/pdf/NYCHlocomotives.pdf Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr PS I have other loco kitbashes in various stages, covering BNSF -8s thru to the drop-cab GE70tonners of the SBK in Brooklyn. Let me see if I can dig them out and check where they are up to... ;-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-UnitMad Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 .... Unfortunately, a morbid fear of painting and decalling ..... I had to look twice to check who had posted that.... ...must admit I'm quite surprised!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prof Klyzlr Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 (edited) I had to look twice to check who had posted that.... ...must admit I'm quite surprised!! Dear F-Unit, Hey, I'll admit it. I don't have an airbrush, my "s.o.p" when moving-fast on a project simply doesn't work well with any "accepted wisdom" methodology I've encountered RE airbrushing, and maybe I'm "believing the hype", but I'm led to understand that no airbrush = no hope of a "decent paintjob" on larger items (such as undecorated locos or cars). I'm not afraid of a decent sable-hair brush, and Tamiya XF series paints have always worked great for me. (NB that using the XF series means matching various RR paint colors is a challenge). I also enjoy weathering any/everything in sight. But anything much more than a single or 2-color loco livery makes me stop and question "do I really need to go there?" (Oh, I also stuggle with masking models... forever getting bleed...) Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr PS Tamiya "rattle cans" have been an interesting experiment on some recent single-base-color models, but I'm far from believing they are an equivalent on a skilled-hand-with-an-airbrush... Edited April 27, 2012 by Prof Klyzlr Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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