long island jack Posted April 13, 2012 Share Posted April 13, 2012 Thinking of using neodymium magnets on new layout,using either 3x3x3 cube's or 3x13 rods looking for advise/help i don't want the delay action of the coupler,just the uncoupling action i've 15 places to spot cars,and don't want to do the" kadee dance" every time i uncouple like the idea of burying them between the ties,don't want to use the kadee 308 under the track magnet to many big holes did think about using skewers, uncoupling tools but this would mean standing in front of the public everytime i uncouple cars plus reaching to the back of the layout may cause damage to buildings ,trees etc has anyone on here use them with success Ray Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_long Posted April 13, 2012 Share Posted April 13, 2012 Hi Ray, Check out John Teals blog here: http://www.rmweb.co....s-and-magnets/# (scroll to the bottom for blog/page 2 inc video) That should help you with using these magnets. Although IMO I think that you'll never totally avoid the kadee shuffle, as I think its down to the design of the coupling. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted April 13, 2012 Share Posted April 13, 2012 On another forum, someone tried this and had trouble with the magnets affecting the steel axles. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
long island jack Posted April 14, 2012 Author Share Posted April 14, 2012 Dave had a look at john's blog,he got magnets set for delay,maybe if i centre mine they will just uncouple John that won't be a problem all my wheelset are non-magnetic thanks for the imput,just want to here of other peoples experience of them,before i order them, as i said i think the 3x3x3 cubes may be best,they will fit in between the sleepers,maybe 3 length ways on centred on the track,only want to uncouple Ray Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 Ray - this might help http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=8481&forum_id=6 we had a thgread on these away back in RMweb 3 - currently down which won't help - I need to dig for some photos - back later Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 Pics found - the round ones were magnetic connectors sold by Maplins and called Magtrix - but no longer available! - but round ones should work - the rectangular ones worked beautifully but I can't remember where they came from another suggestion I have seen is a piece of metal from a tin lid laid under the track (to intensify the pull) with 4/6/8 magnets on top looking like a lego block with ties seperating the magnets, Experiment with the magnets seperated diagonally so the the tails are attracted to individual sides as in the last photo, The bit of "vegetation is there to mark the uncoupling point - the magnets vanish in ballast (and even in unballasted track) when you try to position cars! Jack Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
long island jack Posted April 14, 2012 Author Share Posted April 14, 2012 Cheers Jack looking at the pictures all couplings are set to delay, really wanting non-delay,don't want to go down the kadee route of non- delay magnets fixed in between the tracks on top of the sleepers,want to hide them think i'll send for the 3x3x3 cubes and play about with them Ray Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 A small warning - don't get skin trapped between neodymium magnets - they NIP! They attract from a surprising distance and move very quickly - Ask me how I know! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
long island jack Posted April 14, 2012 Author Share Posted April 14, 2012 (note to myself) don't put magnets in both pockets before going to the toilet Ray Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 Oh WOW! That'd sting! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave1905 Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 You also have to watch out for cars with iron or steel weights and grab irons. Note to Shortliner : Kadee coupler gauge. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_long Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 and for those that dont really think that these magnets can hurt damage break things see here: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidB-AU Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 and for those that dont really think that these magnets can hurt damage break things see here: They are also quite brittle and smashing them together is a Really Bad Idea. They can shatter and send shards flying at very high speed. Cheers David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 You also have to watch out for cars with iron or steel weights and grab irons. Note to Shortliner : Kadee coupler gauge. Dave - I think it is the angle of the camera - they appear to be okay in real life Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertiedog Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 I may be wrong, but I always understood that Kadees work in two ways, a light single magnetic pole induces the same magnetic polarity in each soft iron dropper and they repel each other to cause the de-coupling by just opening the jaws of the knuckle, but a bigger magnet with two poles across the track simply pull on the iron towards each magnet pole, opening the knuckle, but also operating the draft box spring, and thus allowing a push witth the jaws open for remote uncoupling. This is the way I have always used them, with a vertically oriented maget for uncoupling, but not remote, and an electromagnet , (or neo magnet on hinge under the track to give on/off), to give remote operation. The single pole magnet barely affects steel axles, but the double or the electomagnet does!! Any electromagnet feed with A/C will also tend to pull the cars with steel axles more, the vibrating magnetic field causes more of a jigger and things move! DC is better. With well set-up Kadees, in dry lubricated draft boxes, and the jaws etc., lightly polished, they should open by repulsion with a neo magnetic below the track. It will need a reverse to clear the jaws, like a prototype slacken operation. I have used Kadees from the very first types, (the straight pins with non magnetic opening), and mainly single pole magnet operation, no shuffling should be needed to get things apart. These days people do expect to use them straight from the pack, but being old school I always go over the knuckle to de-burr and polish, make sure the jaw is free moving, and add a puff of key lubricant into the draft box. (Also the stem in the draft box is sanded over with 3000 grit emery to polish it and leave no trace of burrs.) All of this is similar with the Clones, but Kadee are still the best overall. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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